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Discharging battery

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I have a DRZ e model with an LED tail/brake light and an aftermarket headlight (2x 35 watt MR-16 bulbs) Also running a Garmin 478 off the bike. During a recent ride after checking the GPS during a brake (bike not running, key on) for a very short look, bike had to be push started because the bike wouldn't start before the battery ran out of juice. Battery is "Suppose" to be new ( a year ago and a crap brand) and it lives on a good tender. When doing an electrical test on the system, the battery shows 13.99 amps at idle, then drops to 13.5 or so,as you increase throttle? What would cause that condition? Crappy battery? Bike runs fine, and no issues while riding..

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Yes, read the troubleshooting guide then do the "Free Power "mod.

The reason the voltage drops as revs increase is the voltage regulator is regulating. Only it senses voltage internally not actually at the battery so it is fooled and thinks the system is at 14 volts when it isn't. Free Power will get more voltage to the battery and should keep the battery at a higher state of charge.

It is also very possible your 1 year old crap battery is just crap. Free Power will still help even if it does not completely solve the problem.

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A slip of the keyboard I am sure but you mean 13.99Volts not Amps. Important to use the correct setting on the meter as there is plenty of peak current to smoke a meter connected while on the Amps setting, and many meters are not fused.

If you do find your battery is the culprit I encourage installing a LFP type battery. A couple days ago I started my bike at zero degrees © after it sat several weeks without a tender and danged if that 2.5Ah TurnTech didn't get the job done just fine.

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A slip of the keyboard I am sure but you mean 13.99Volts not Amps. Important to use the correct setting on the meter as there is plenty of peak current to smoke a meter connected while on the Amps setting, and many meters are not fused.

If you do find your battery is the culprit I encourage installing a LFP type battery. A couple days ago I started my bike at zero degrees © after it sat several weeks without a tender and danged if that 2.5Ah TurnTech didn't get the job done just fine.

Thanks. Yes, I meant volts. I've done the system check, but I wanted to know why the the battery was discharging before I changed anything. Slowrider, are you using the stock size battery or the larger "Upgrade" battery setup?

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My 2.5Ah Turntech only fills about half the battery holder. I would probably get a 5Ah next time simply because they are so small and light. It has never let me down yet.

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Yes that is the one. There is argument as to if it is a good idea but some have even tucked them into the airbox.

When I first got it I thought there had to be a mistake (too small), but it keeps doing the job. The dash does often blink going past compression stroke if cold. As it says on the 2.5Ah order page 'up to 400cc' so running at the limit.

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Yes that is the one. There is argument as to if it is a good idea but some have even tucked them into the airbox.

When I first got it I thought there had to be a mistake (too small), but it keeps doing the job. The dash does often blink going past compression stroke if cold. As it says on the 2.5Ah order page 'up to 400cc' so running at the limit.

Hey Slowriding, I was about to order the 5Ah as it was the size recommended by Turntech but I like the smaller size better as that will free up some space to carry tools in the batt box.

Have you cut off the auto decomp off the camshaft? Or does it barely spin the motor with the decomp on?

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Yes that is the one. There is argument as to if it is a good idea but some have even tucked them into the airbox.

When I first got it I thought there had to be a mistake (too small), but it keeps doing the job. The dash does often blink going past compression stroke if cold. As it says on the 2.5Ah order page 'up to 400cc' so running at the limit.

I was rather surprised when I saw the size of it...That's technology for ya...

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Yeah...That 5 ah would be the go for higher compression engines....or no decomp

:bonk: Craigo, Id like to set down in your Down under shop, and share a Tinny of Piss with you. Hope i have used the proper Aussy talk. :smirk: You seem to be the kind of mate that i would like to hang around with. Merry Christmas to you and the Mrs Craigo. Merry Christmas.

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Really? That thing runs a DRZ ? That's crazy small! How long have you had it installed? And this is on an S model with what accessories ?

About a year and and a half.

The LFP batteries are not intended to sit with bike off using power for extended periods. Their strength is as a starting battery rather than a storage cell. Of course if you are running the charging system powers any reasonable load so the battery is not as relevant.

Basicly a stock bike power wise.

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Down under shop = Pub,

Tinney = small aluminium boat

Piss = urinating or beer...:bonk:

Yep, your Aussie is improving...:smirk:

Craigo, Id like to set down in your Down under shop(PUB), and share a Tinny of Piss(throw a couple back,suck some piss):D with you. Hope i have used the proper Aussy talk. You seem to be the kind of mate that i would like to hang around with. Merry Christmas to you and the Mrs Craigo. Merry Christmas.

Thanks Mitch, That's mighty neighbourly of you ...lol..My thoughts are of the same opinion of you....:banana:

I will be having a fairly quiet one this year due to a recent low side 3 weeks bac...These Freaking ribs are taking sooo long to repair.....:bonk:

The Mrs and I appreciate your kind thoughts and hope Santa is as equally as kind to you....:busted:

And as someone famous once said, "Keep it on one wheel".....:awww::lol:

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Just to let everyone know,after installing a Shorai battery I finally did the Free Power mod and volts went from 12.8 or 13.0 to 14.1 all day long. I've since removed the crappy "Lanscape Lighting" headlight that used 70 watts (2 35 watt MR16 bulbs) to a stock S Model headlight and bulb. Only running a low beam now because I don't have the controls or a SPDT switch for the high beam, but it's much better. ( That tells you how sad the aftermarket unit was, a stock headlight being better haha) Now what I want to do is add a switched fuse block. I have the setup off my previous bike, the only issue is too much stuff and wires. It is a switched ground unit. Fuse block and a relay set up to switch the ground on and off.It's an E Model bike, so room is scarce, even behind the headlight. I want to add a horn, aux lights to the bike along with the 478 GPS I'm already using. As stated before, the positive terminal on a Shorai is too full now. I have a sma area in the battery box, but not enough for the fuse box and the relay. Trying to make it easy to access and not run a lot of unnecessary wires. I may have to fab something, just trying to find a good location. Anybody done something like this..

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My relay is mounted to the upper fork triple clamp.   I drilled a mounting hole in the front web.  Then added a wire bundle with 6 or 7 spade connectors from the switched relay terminal.  The relay is operated by the original E headlight wire so the relay comes on with the key.  All the accessories are connected to the relay.  Only the tail light and ignition are on the original E wires.

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Thanks, another question. Can I use the old connection from the free power mod to supply the hot side of my add on fuse block or us that too much juice for that connection? Trying to keep stuff off the positive battery terminal because of the bolt length and clearance issues with the Shorai posts.

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Yes you can use the original RR connection to tap power for the relay.  I use that connection for constant GPS power and taped power for the relay from the hot terminal on the starter relay.  A bit more room there.  I don't like to have bundle of wires on the battery terminals.  If you use the RR connector you will need a 20 amp fuse in the fuse block.  If you use the relay terminal, use a in-line fuse in the power wire to the relay.

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