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2001 husqvarna sm610s question

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Hello,

I just purchased a 01 Husqvarna SM610s with supermoto and enduro wheels. Purchased as a project bike as it was hard/none starting bike.

Guy I purchased the bike off ran the bike a few months then it started acting up. He took it to a husqvarna dealer and they talked him in to refreshing the engine which they did. He picked up the bike, rode it home and filled it with gas. Parked it up for a few days and went to start it again and nothing.

So he spoke to another husky dealer and they suggested a new CDI unit which seemed to cure it for a few weeks. Sat for a few days and NOTHING. So he decided to take the carb off and clean it. Put it back on and left it.

This is where I came in. Guy got sick and tired of it, with his job as a paramedic, he got no time to play/repair. So he put in on ebay and I got suckered.

Went and fetched it and was methodical with my approach. Checked fuel and fuel was fresh, Fuel was getting to the carb. Pulled the spark plug and checked for a spark. Had a spark but it was very weak (bearly visible). Replaced the coil, plug and cap for new as cheap option.

I spent 2hrs looking for the relevant specs for the stator etc and found the exciter coil was out of spec. Was giving a ohm reading close to spec, but output voltage during cranking was 4.8v. Sent the stator off for repair. Came back 3 days later and installed. Getting a better spark but could be better so tested voltage again from stator and got 18 - 20v during cranking. Voltage out to coil was 16v, so concluded the CDI is faulty.

Priced up a NEW cdi from husqvarna and had a heart attack. Managed to get one at a reasonable price from someone in europe but gonna take time to come so I decided to have a play.

I purchased a dirt cheap cdi off a Lifan 150 which is an 8 pin cdi and a wiring harness (just for the cdi plug). I cut the plugs off my OEM cdi and grafted them to the lifan plug then plugged in the CDI. Crossed my fingers and hit the start button. NICE BIG BLUE SPARK.

So put spark plug back in engine, coupled every thing up and sprayed a little brake cleaner in the the mouth of the carb to see if we could get any life out the beast. Hit the starter and got life straight away. So put the radiators back on and fuel tank. Coupled it up, pulled the choke and cranked it and it fire up straight away. Tried tickling the carb to get it to run without choke, but I am basicly pissing into the wind at the moment as I don't know if the guy has messed with the settings.

So to my question, Does anyone have a basic OEM setup for the carb that I can start with and move from there???

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No-one???

Hi ,

it's pretty quiet on here for the 610's,

ADV rider or CafeH , are better,

I've had the 410 of that from new,

the VALVE clearances are crucial for correct fuelling,

do a search on here ( white icon on RED bar - above this post),

the left kickers have different clearances to the e-start..!!

there was a post fairly recently , with several good info points

guy in Canada with a 610 ES single project.

good luck , and let us know what you find / need,

Charlie - Oxford

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I think I got it beat. I got the bike warm and fettled the carb by ear. Sounds so SWEET now

Only thing is now, I picked up another husky today, a te610 Who's a sucker

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http://docs.husqvarnaoutlet.com/manuals//2003%20610%20Repair.pdf

Follow the link it should take you to an automatic .pdf repair manual for 2003 te610e/610sms, on page 59 is the carb info.

Should the download not work then go to http://husqvarnaoutlet.com/repair_manuals and manually download the 2003 610 repair from the left hand box.

These bikes can be hard to start at times, sometimes just a learning curve on the right technique, eg.... 3 pumps of the throttle - no choke -hit the button if it fires use the throttle a bit until it will idle evenly.

Some bikes may need full choke, others half choke. Sometimes opening the choke all the way then closing it as you are turning the bike over works.

A weak point was the igniter coil on the stator on earlier years, may have been sorted on later years but a rewind may help.

A lot of these bikes where imports and may need tweaking a bit inside the carb, you could get a UK kit for earlier models which used a different atomiser for example.

I used to have starting problems with mine (1999 model reg'd in 2000) I chased what I thought was a carb problem which ended up being the igniter coil. I also replaced the starter jet with a *60, rarely need the choke to start, a couple of pumps on the throttle does it for mine.

Hope this helps.

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Hi chris, Thanks for the info.

I sent my stator down to west country windings for repair. Total bill for the repair was £89 inc p&p

Price up a new CDI and they wanted £450 + 20% vat. So brought the lifan cdi unit and harness new for £17 inc p&p I have rode the bike a little now since I got it mot'ed, taxed and insured. Just a case of having a play with the settings to get where I want it. Only thing that confused me yesterday when I came back was difficulty selecting neutral. I read else where they can be a little tempremental for neutral. Also going to run it for a few hours then change the oil and filter again

I am going to make a slightly bigger gear and brake knuckle (the bit ya put ya foot on) as I am not a fan of the little ones on it. I may also make up some replacement panels in aluminium as the radiator/tank panels have been cut down.

Time to have a play.

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Only thing that confused me yesterday when I came back was difficulty selecting neutral. I read else where they can be a little tempremental for neutral. Also going to run it for a few hours then change the oil and filter again

I am going to make a slightly bigger gear and brake knuckle (the bit ya put ya foot on) as I am not a fan of the little ones on it. I may also make up some replacement panels in aluminium as the radiator/tank panels have been cut down.

Sounds like you've got it sussed,

neutral is correct..it's a dirt-bike where the neutral is a "half-gear" , as you don't normally use neutral off-road.

try selecting neutral as you coast to a stop.., should work every time,

enjoy the hol's,

Charlie

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Issues I had with my 2000 SM610S:

Throttle cable slices through the metal cable guide on the top of the carb - lubricate this! Could be dangerous.

Running at steady high rpms shears the heads off the stock valve cover bolts - replace these with quality hardware as they break, or all at once, if you don't like to be covered with oil while riding.

Sealant for low fuel gauge sensor in petcock breaks down, allowing a fuel to run out of tank - breach may happen while you are riding. Insect this and re-seal it with a fuel safe sealant.

Catalytic converters are held in the center of each muffler by a structure riveted to the muffler body. Running at steady high rpms elongates the rivet holes in the mufflers allowing hot exhuast gas to exit the rivet holes and melt your side number plates.

Upshot: pay attention to some of these design issues, and probably don't use the bike for high speed motorway travel.

I know it probably doesn't sound like it, but I loved my SM610S. It was a fun, sweet handling bike that drew attention, and was as fast on a twisty road as any sport bike.

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I did 16,000 miles on mine (410) in 3 years from new,

only the leaky fuel tap was an issue.. along with cam-chains ( major failing),

great bike though , and the finish held-up well through 4 UK winters,

Daily 70/90mph runs.

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Thought is was time for a pic or two

This is the 01 sm610s that i first brought

hus1-1.jpg

This one I brought last week and is in excellent condition apart from busted ignition switch and rev counter housing.

tehus1.jpg

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Well, been running the bike for a few weeks now and overall I am happy, but still not quite happy with the carb settings.

I read else where about switching from the dellorto to a keihin FCR. So I managed to pick up an FCR40 for a reasonable price. Just emailed a few companies that supply jet kits and asked for a ball park kit so I can fine tune.

Will keep yall posted

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