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Pics of current cylinder during new top end buildhink

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To me I think that it's still in good shape. Just doing a top end rebuild and have it apart cleaning various bits and pieces on it and doing some lubing etc.

It's got roughly 70 hrs on entire bike(original cylinder) it has no more than 80 max I'd say. The only wear I can see would be there the skirt has worn slightly, front and rear, which on other pics I've seen in normal.. Cross hatching seems to still be good and visible etc. Just wanting to see what your input is via pics..

I know it's said not to clean the top carbon deposits off the upper clearance volume area as it can promote oil leakage. But I cleaned it last time and i was all good still.

2011-12-19_21-21-04_649.jpg

2011-12-19_21-20-09_677.jpg

2011-12-19_21-18-14_402.jpg

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looks awesome! little hot soapy water with scotchbrite pad, then rinse real well with soapy water till the white rag test comes clean. good to go. Not that it appears it needes it, but the scotchbrite cleans out the hone marks that hold oil (a good thing).

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only reason I posted was I just wanted to double check about before I sling it all together..

BTW per our conversation a while ago about the AP mod/running super rich. I think you are correct.. Cause my exhaust side of the head was gummed up like a mofo.. i tried to use some chem-clean or whatever the carb cleaner walmart sells and it didn't really do a good job although I only let it sit about 30 mins.. I'd debating on having it sent to RON for a little port&Polish depending on Monies..

I just washed it with water/soap before the pictures.

What direction does one want to go with the scotchbrite pad? Up and down as the piston goes?

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Use soap and water or brake clean to start with and run your scotchbrite in the same direction as the crosshatch pattern. Do one direction then the other a few times and clean thoughly! You will see the difference when your done. Mine looked like that at about 100hrs and it now has another 40 on it with new piston etc. No issues at all.

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what gtxr said, rub along the hone grooves. you wanting to get any deposits out of the grooves. nicasil is hard, you wont' hurt it with the s.b. pad but clean well afterward so nothing is left that could be abrasive.

yup, the A.P. mod i think is perfect for fast mx guys, not on-off-on tree/woods riding or trails. When you need more power in the open sections, just twist the throttle more! You can clean out your ports with a dremel tool, (don't forget the eye protection).

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Which reminds me I have to order another rubber plunger, a stock one this time..

Also, found for cleaning all the carbon deposits on the exit ports brake cleaner out performed seafoam, and chem-clean.. Brake cleaner took it all off almost without scrubbing...

I think a stage 1 HotCam might be going into the bike along with a little headwork and keep the stock piston in there

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