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Another DRZ250 novice issue

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Hi Guys,

Let me introduce myself first. Name is Repso and I am from Darwin, OZ. I have been mainly riding sports 250s and 600s but recently bought a DRZ250 for commuting and occasional trail. This is my first trail or dirt bike so things are a bit new. I have learnt a lot from this forum and would like to Thank all. :bonk::thumbsup::smirk:

My problems started when I bought the bike and it had some starting issues:banghead:. On opening the carbi, I found rust and gung everywhere.:busted: It has a corroded Main Jet that snapped when I tried to open. I cleaned all up with Carb cleaners and ordered these parts from MikuniOZ

1. Pilot Jet 40 and 42.5

2. Main Jet 130 and 132.5

After lot of dicking around with the settings, the bike has some issues that, I cannot find an answer on the forum existing topics.

Using a 40 Pilot Jet, 132.5 Master Jet, No baffle or spark arrestor on the exhaust and moving the needle Eclip one down to Richer, I am stuck with these issues:

1. When tuning the bike, the carbi starts to leak fuel from the Sump Overflow Hose. If I switch the petcock off and let it rest for a while, restart the bike it goes off. But then it has done it twice in 2 days. Not sure where the problem is?

2. The Fuel mixture screw is on the underside of the carb that no freaken screw driver can reach when the carb is on the bike. I saw some extended carb fuel screw on the site, but none for my 2009 DRZ250 with the TM33 8012 Carbi. Does anyone know where I can find one for mine? Or any tips on how to turn the thing while installed.

3. When tuning the idle, do you set the Fuel Screw to 2 turns out and then play with the Idle screw or you play with the Fuel Screw in and out? The tuning manuals / posting on Mikuni OZ, youtube and here were a bit contradicting. If I have to play with the fuels screw, I'd love to know a better way to turn the damn thing without taking it off the bike every time or burning my hands:cripple:.

4. When the bike starts from cold using the choke, it takes a while to get into idle. 2-5 minutes. But the bike boggs down when I snap the throttle. Its only after I keep the bike running for more than 10 minutes, I can snap the throttle from idle without killing it. Is this a Pilot Jet issues or Fuel Screw settings? Mine is 2.5 turns out.

5. Is there an easier way to take the carbi out without loosing the rest of the bush on my head.

Any advice is highly appreciated and Thank you guys once again for all the advice :banana:

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Some developments and some failures for today.:busted:

Sorted the problem with the overflowing carbi. More gung and rusted bits in the fuel needle valve assembly. Cleaned it up which sorted the problem.

Can't find an extended Fuel / Air Screw so got a pair of angled Screw drivers

Discovered a great way to remove the carbi easily.

Loosen the Air Hose Clamp on the air box

Loosen the Air Hose Clamp on the carbi

Spray some carbi cleaner on the edges of the Air hose n Carbi

Pull the air hose back from the carbi towards the air box

Once the hose sleeve is off the carbim bend it to tuck just behind the suspension springs.

Then loosen the other clamp and easily slide the carbi out... :smirk::banana::banana:

Bike starts on first ignition now which is great and that too with no choke:thumbsup:

Took it for a test ride and it still seems to hesitate in the mid range and top end.:bonk: I am still looking for advice on this guys so anything with be helpful.

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Some more mods:

I cut out a 5x4 inch section from the top of the Airbox where the ECU sits. This has surely taken the hesitation problem out. It has also reduces the black soot collecting on the end of the exhaust pipe so the ignition is good. However, now when I open the throttle from 1/4 to 3/4 it tends to drag and takes a while for the power to roll on.

Should I pop the needle up one more notch and see? Any idea's anyone?

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