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250x known for soft rear breaks?

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I was watching a test video, once again, and they were talking about the great breaks and how they liked that the rear breaks dont really lock up? I ask this because I've bleed my breaks (rear) and even adjusted them all the way tight! But I can still press them way down, they don't lock up like my mxers did, and I reaally don't like how that feels. Also, I have new pads.. I bleed it a few times, I mean I know how to bleed breaks:smashpc:

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The brakes are kinda soft, but a lot of that depends on what pads you are using. They will lock up easily enough if you intend to slide the rear wheel. The pedal SHOULD NOT go the bottoming stop. If it does, you still have air in the system.

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Sounds like you got alot of air in the brakes.

Or you could have a worn seal in the pedal cylinder. They do not always leak, sometimes they just let air in and turn to mush. If your bike is new, this should not be the issue. If it is well used, pressure washed, and the brake used to work better, it is probabaly your problem.

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Yea its used, 07. I pressure wash it after every ride. I guess I'll keep bleeding the brakes. The 1st cycle I bleed air got in there and I had to bleed it out, but after that I ran a tube from the rear nipple into a bottle of Motul brake fluid and I have another 1 that I use to pour it in the cylinder. As I'm pumping the rear break, I lock the nipple nut up at the same time to avoid as much air as possible...:bonk::bonk::smirk:

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Rebuild the caliper or master cyl.

Rebuild it? What all is involved in a caliper rebuild? I highly doubt it needs that, but I am curious what is needed and is it something easy to do??:bonk:

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Rebuild it? What all is involved in a caliper rebuild? I highly doubt it needs that, but I am curious what is needed and is it something easy to do??:bonk:

The caliper is probably fine. The master cylinders go often with pressure washing and just getting dirt in there alittle here and there then riding it.

You can buy a master cylinder rebuild kit. It is some new seals and a new plunger. It is an easy job. Take the rear pedal off, take boot off, take clip out, pull plunger with seals out, put new in, refill with fluid and bleed.

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Same thing happens to the front and they sell a kit for it as well. Same job except you take the front lever off, then disasemble.

I have never had to rebuild a caliper. I can't count how many MX master cylinders I've rebuilt. Been riding and working on them well over 20 years now.

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They are alittle spungy,but they lock up when needed.Must still have some air in the system.I do keep my pedal with play in it as i find i over press with boots on tbh:smirk:

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Same thing happens to the front and they sell a kit for it as well. Same job except you take the front lever off, then disasemble.

I have never had to rebuild a caliper. I can't count how many MX master cylinders I've rebuilt. Been riding and working on them well over 20 years now.

+1. The job is simple just need a pliers for the retaining ring http://www.bing.com/shopping/snap-ring-pliers-internal/p/B5212168E46FF9FBFC35?q=internal+snap+ring+pliers&lpf=0&lpq=internal%2bsnap%2bring%2bpliers&FORM=CMSMEE

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They are alittle spungy,but they lock up when needed.Must still have some air in the system.I do keep my pedal with play in it as i find i over press with boots on tbh:smirk:

Hmmm, so yours aren't as tight as most mx bikes either?? there's gotta be a way to get them solid. Guess I'll just bleed the ever living shit outta them til I waist a whole $20 bottle of Motul 600, if all else fails there's always the jigsaw:smirk:

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Sounds like you got alot of air in the brakes.

Or you could have a worn seal in the pedal cylinder. They do not always leak, sometimes they just let air in and turn to mush. If your bike is new, this should not be the issue. If it is well used, pressure washed, and the brake used to work better, it is probabaly your problem.

Thanks CJ, you are probably right my brotha:rant:

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Hmmm, so yours aren't as tight as most mx bikes either?? there's gotta be a way to get them solid. Guess I'll just bleed the ever living shit outta them til I waist a whole $20 bottle of Motul 600, if all else fails there's always the jigsaw:smirk:

That stuff is worth the $20 when you charge in to hard corner on the side of a cliff and the rear brake works:banana: Can't say so much for the other stuff.

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I've been using it on all 3 of my bikes this year. I haven't used anything else on my new bikes, so I couldn't tell. But from what I've heard about it, its supposed to be good stuff, I didn't have any problems with it when all year. The guys at the shop talked it up real well. I have another bottle of Motul brake fluid as well, its the 5.1 ($12)? My suspension tuner sold it to me the other day and swore by it, said I didn't need to waist my $$ anymore on the 600. Thats actually what I'll be flushing through the brakes now since I used up the other bottle of the 600 bleeding all the of the bikes brakes when I bought them:bonk:

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I've been using it on all 3 of my bikes this year. I haven't used anything else on my new bikes, so I couldn't tell. But from what I've heard about it, its supposed to be good stuff, I didn't have any problems with it when all year. The guys at the shop talked it up real well. I have another bottle of Motul brake fluid as well, its the 5.1 ($12)? My suspension tuner sold it to me the other day and swore by it, said I didn't need to waist my $$ anymore on the 600. Thats actually what I'll be flushing through the brakes now since I used up the other bottle of the 600 bleeding all the of the bikes brakes when I bought them:bonk:

Losing the brakes on a cliffside trail is no bueno. Once I switched to 600 it did not happen again. To be honest there is no way to replicate the actions that lead up to the brake fade. Just for me I would rather err on the side of caution. Good luck with the other stuff, it probably will be fine:thumbsup:

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