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1157 LED brake light replacement?

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Bought a LED brake/tail light bulb, "Direct Replacement for 1157" it says on the package.

It don't work? Wont' come on for the running light or the brake light. The old 1157 works fine when I stick it back in .

What do ya think is up with that?

thanks

js

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I recently put one of those LED aftermarket bulbs in my brake light. I made sure that the two bumps on the rear of the new LED lined up and made really good contact with the the two brake light contact strips within the brake light assembly. At first mine didn't so I ended up pushing the two contacts back towards the rear of the bike in order to make better contact with those two bumps on the back of the bulb; things worked as they should after that...

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Test the bulb directly with a battery to verify that it works.

LED bulbs require correct positive and negative polarity of the circuit. If your ground and postive or swapped, an incandescent bulb will work but an LED bulb won't.

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Test the bulb directly with a battery to verify that it works.

LED bulbs require correct positive and negative polarity of the circuit. If your ground and postive or swapped, an incandescent bulb will work but an LED bulb won't.

This^^^^^^^^^^

Also, Chinese LED's are like minimum wage employees...some work, some don't. It's hit and miss.

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I used one of those 48-led 1157 base clusters - they are more pricey but they're also plenty bright - it has been doing great in the xrl - I think the only drawback is that it does not benefit from the stock reflector but most led's can't do that anyway - all the led's face backwards so there's no wasted light on the sides of the unit - I got it to free up some watts since I installed heated grips and a hardwire lead for my handheld gps at the time

note that even though the bike has a red lens, the led tail cluster should fire RED as well

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Thanks gentlemen

I went and exchanged the bulb..so I doubt I got two bad ones..More than likely it's my BAD...

I have a WPS tail light and could very well have screwed the pooch on the splicing mixing the ground etc.

I'll go cut some tape and have a look see.

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My WPS tail light had slightly ambiguous color coding on the wires. I disassembled the housing and looked directly at where each wire connected to the socket. Ground goes to the body of the socket, the two positives (tail and brake circuits) touch the base of the bulb.

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The usual reasons an LED won't work are as stated above (polarity) or the fact your system is AC and not DC. Incandescent bulbs will work with either. LED's will not.

Also, try and use a red LED cluster. These run off a lower voltage than white. You should be using red with a red reflector anyway.

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The lights should work no matter how you hook them up. It's AC, so it needs a place to come and go. The problem is that the LEDs need a resistor. No idea what size resistor as that depends on the draw of the LEDs. But, if you buy the resistor from the same company on EBay, they will usually work. May not work that long, but it will usually work.

Do a quick google search about LEDs and resistors. It will explain the whole thing. I am not an electronics technician, I just play one on TV. And because of that, I may have missed a post where some else already caught this.:bonk:

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good point about resistors

I'm guessing the resistor is integrated in the 1157 based cluster I'm using because it works perfectly and is plenty bright

as I mentioned earlier though, they are pricey (and maybe an integrated design is part of the reason why)

it's in the pic below

ledcluster.jpg

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The resistor thing is only when running LED turn signals, and the resistor tricks the blinker relay. It's not necessary for a tail light.

Many LEDs will run on AC current, it's just that they are a form of diode and so only will use the current when it's running in the correct direction.

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This is how to wire the WPS light to the XR650L

4EGv1.jpg

For what it's worth, I just installed a LED replacement from SUperbrightleds.com into my KTM and the bulb is very bright but the brake light doesn't work - it's the same brightness as the running light. The incandescent bulb worked normally. It's really a non issue for me, not worth my time - if I did a lot of road miles on it, it would need to be fixed.

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Just curious, is 1157 the stock bulb base for the XRR? At least on the tail light?

Yes,,see below.,

http://autorepair.about.com/od/electricalrelateddiyjobs/l/aa010502b.htm

And from AKAROB,,,"""For what it's worth, I just installed a LED replacement from SUperbrightleds.com into my KTM and the bulb is very bright but the brake light doesn't work - it's the same brightness as the running light. The incandescent bulb worked normally. It's really a non issue for me, not worth my time - if I did a lot of road miles on it, it would need to be fixed"".

Not much good if the brake light side doesn't work,,,Looks like more money gets you better results,,See below.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/led/led.htm

I also wouldn't call those led tailight bulbs from Superbright expensive,,They are about the same price as a stock bulb costs down here and apparently the LEDS last about 100 times as long,,plus you get more power to use somewhere else,,Bargain if the brake light side of them work ok..

I fitted a LED tail/brake assembly to my 86 XR600,,everything runs off the Stator on NZ 600s,,eg,. (No battery),,. With the stock tailight there wasn't enough power leftover to have the head/tail/indis/horn going at the same time,,everything dimmed and hardly worked,,,with the led tailight there was ample power leftover for the lot to work at once.,,and Yep,,no resistor was needed to make the tailight work,,straight plug and play..,

Edited by Horri

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86 XR600,,everything runs off the Stator on NZ 600s,,eg,. (No battery),,. With the stock tailight there wasn't enough power leftover to have the head/tail/indis/horn going at the same time,,everything dimmed and hardly worked,,,with the led tailight there was ample power leftover for the lot to work at once.,,and Yep,,no resistor was needed to make the tailight work,,straight plug and play..,

Were those NZ 600s an AC or a DC system? Were all the electricals on a single circuit, or was the headlight a separate circuit?

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Were those NZ 600s an AC or a DC system? Were all the electricals on a single circuit, or was the headlight a separate circuit?

Getting technical for me,,I'll use someone elses words from my database to explain Aussie/NZ XR wiring and add a few comments in parenthesis..

In OZ/NZ XRs came with DC and AC power and have no battery.

The DC is run though a regulator/rectifier and powers blinkers etc.

The AC is run though a regulator and only powers the head and taillights in an always on situation.,,(Er,,No,,We have switches to turn on NZ XR lights)

US model XRs only come with AC power.

US XRs due to fact they dont come from the factory as road ready dont have inbuilt DC power like Aussie XRs.

An OZ/NZ stock XR600 came from Honda with AC and DC and NO battery. There are in fact 2 charging circuits on oz/nz model XR..

AC for the lights (which is fine electrically as they can have dirty power) and DC type power which goes through a thing called a DC regulator/rectifier.

1. All power from the engine is AC power (this is dirty power)

2. Lights etc (from some electrical reason can be run on AC. YOU still need an AC regulator and this is the finned item under your seat. On an XR 2 leads come from the stator down near the engine into the AC reg.

3. To run finer items like blinkers etc you need DC power. On US XRs you dont have this built it. ON Australian XRs you have an extra set of 2 wires coming from the stator into the DC regulator/rectifiier.

4. Now on US XRs I presume you need to replace the stator to get DC power IF YOU WISH TO RETAIN THE 2 SYSTEM APPROACH TO POWER. This is becuase I suspect the US XR does NOT have the 2 extra leads coming off the stator to run to a DC reg/rectifier.

5. It is possible to run all power via the DC reg/rectifier. It's probably the approach US guys do becuase only the aftermarket solves the road lighting issue.

(Someone elses explanation,,whether it's all correct or not I don't know).. My two XRs are wired up the same as an XL600 and run XL stators now anyway,,One runs a battery,,one has no battery but uses a 27U Capacitor in its place..The no battery job was the one which I put the LED tailight on,,It previously had one of those 4 pole wound stators,,Kinda gutless so now replaced with the XL Stator..,

Edited by Horri

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The usual reasons an LED won't work are as stated above (polarity) or the fact your system is AC and not DC. Incandescent bulbs will work with either. LED's will not.

Also, try and use a red LED cluster. These run off a lower voltage than white. You should be using red with a red reflector anyway.

I have to get the seat off and strip some tape to see if I screwed the wireing...and

Yeah I was wondering what the deal is with the read LED cluster inside a Red lens?

The stock buld is "white" or clear why should one run a red LED inside the red lens. Plus side for white is the License plate light will work.

I've read that the red bulbs are not as bright inside the red lens...

thanks for the input.

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