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250R ticking when hot

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My '99 250r has some valve issues, but recently it started ticking when hot. When I bought it, the clearances on the valves were a bit tight, so we set the proper gap and it ran fine for a while. After a while the valves tightened up again to the point it wouldn't run, so we eventually started a cycle of setting the clearances and it tightening up. But the last time I checked the valves, it started and ran fine but once it got warmed up it started ticking.

I took it apart again and one of my intake rockers doesn't let me get a feeler gauge all the way through, but on the other 3 I can. I don't know what's causing this, but I can set the gap still but it feels like it's being forced against the rocker. I took the adjusting screw completely out and it was still tight.

Any ideas?:bonk:

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First, lets establish you're correct in knowing which is intake and which is exhaust. The valve caps closest to the carb are intake and the ones closest to the header are exhaust. Do you have this correct?

I'm wanting to rule that out because if it's actually the right exhaust valve you're having trouble with, the decomp system may be interfering with your measurement and adjustment.

Hearing a little ticking from the valve train is normal. It's better than not hearing anything at all. Lets you know your clearances AREN'T too tight. But there's def something up with that one valve.

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The 250s (and some 400s) have soft intake valves. Over time, they wear into the valve seats causing the valve stem to protrude further and further upward. The clue is frequent valve adjustments to open the clearance back up. I advise you to pull the head and replace the intakes and maybe even the exhausts depending on their condition. If you let this go too long, a dropped valve is a good possibility.

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The 250s (and some 400s) have soft intake valves. Over time, they wear into the valve seats causing the valve stem to protrude further and further upward. The clue is frequent valve adjustments to open the clearance back up. I advise you to pull the head and replace the intakes and maybe even the exhausts depending on their condition. If you let this go too long, a dropped valve is a good possibility.

That sounds like what was happening with it, because the left intake valve is pushing up on the adjuster right now, and we were adjusting them once a week before this.

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Kibblewhite Black Diamond valves, rather than OEM, are the way to go on these engines. I also am a big fan of replacing the valve springs with Kibblewhite or R/D.

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Kibblewhite Black Diamond valves, rather than OEM, are the way to go on these engines. I also am a big fan of replacing the valve springs with Kibblewhite or R/D.

So what all should I replace, both intake valves but what about springs?

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I would replace all four valves. As for the springs, if it was my bike, I would also replace them. If you want to use the old springs, measure the free length, if they are in spec they should be OK to reuse.

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I would replace all four valves. As for the springs, if it was my bike, I would also replace them. If you want to use the old springs, measure the free length, if they are in spec they should be OK to reuse.

OK, thanks for the help

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