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Engine Lockup Tool????

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Has anyone used an engine lockup tool? I think Tusk and Motion Pro makes them. I put one on order since they are cheap. I have nothing to loose even if I don't use it based on what I find out here. I would think that screwing the tool into the spark plug hole would put too much stress on the piston and wrist pin bearing to be considered a good tool. I know that probably the best way is to use a spanner on the magneto. I have even heard someone jam piece aluminum between the crankshaft gear and the clutch hub gear to loosen the crank gear nut or the magneto nut. Are these methods ok to use?????????????

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A penny between the gears works but engine lockup tools are the bomb. One of my favorite little simple tools in my box. You'll be amazed how much you end up using it.

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I do know it will work great, but I am wondering if it is still good on the wrist pin or in the case of the penny tool, the gears?

Edited by Mark6299

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Neither will hurt anything IMO. The penny is softer than the gears. I've spun them right around before and they come out with gear teeth holes but the gear teeth are fine. As far as the engine stop I don't see that as alot of force against the bearings compared to combustion.

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Neither will hurt anything IMO. The penny is softer than the gears. I've spun them right around before and they come out with gear teeth holes but the gear teeth are fine. As far as the engine stop I don't see that as alot of force against the bearings compared to combustion.

Yeah, in my younger days I ran quite a few pennies through the gears. I ended up making my own gear locker with an old drive gear from the back of a trashed clutch basket.

Now I exclusively use my clutch holder/flywheel holder. The engine lockup tool would probably be more convenient, but chances are you need the aforementioned tool anyways.

I wouldn't think this tool puts more stress on the internals than the combustion process. Just use good judgement and don't over torque.

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I would prefer the clutch/spanner tool, which I own, but the prongs on it do not reach the holes on my oem magneto let alone the GYTR weighted magneto I bought. I never calculated the force of one cumbustion cycle but I think it would be MUCH less than the force required to withstand the torque of screwing the gear or magneto nut.

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just take the spark plug out and turn the motor over until the piston is about a inch from top dead center..then take a clean piece of rope and snake plenty of it down in there and then push the kickstarter down until its locked up.:bonk::banana::smirk:

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there's the old trick of shoving cord into the spark plug hole

Yep, I do this in a jam, although you have to be very careful that the cord doesn't get stuck in a port. Then the force of torquing something down could bend the edge of the piston and cause the ring to stick. Or on older bikes actually break the ring.

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I would prefer the clutch/spanner tool, which I own, but the prongs on it do not reach the holes on my oem magneto let alone the GYTR weighted magneto I bought. I never calculated the force of one cumbustion cycle but I think it would be MUCH less than the force required to withstand the torque of screwing the gear or magneto nut.

I have no idea if the combustion cycle puts that much toruqe or not, good question.

However, when the motor is spinning to the moon and the throttle is chopped, I've heard the rods can stretch around .030". I doubt torquing on the nuts produces that kind of force.

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I used the lockup tool and it works fine. This eliminated the need for a spanner tool for the flywheel.

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there's the old trick of shoving cord into the spark plug hole

+1 i just stick a piece of rope in there. works great and cost me 2 cents.

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