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Looking for recommendations on setting up tires for ice riding. Tires, brands, screws, you name it.

Riding on ice only. Maybe hit the occasional man made burm.

Thanks

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Looking for recommendations on setting up tires for ice riding. Tires, brands, screws, you name it.

Riding on ice only. Maybe hit the occasional man made burm.

Thanks

For a cheap experiment, buy 1/2" or 5/8" sheet metal zip screws - I get mine from an HVAC supply house for ~$15/thousand - enough for two bikes with spares. Put a screw in each knob in the front and on the side knobs in the back, and 2 or 3 in the big knobs in the back. Make sure to get the ones that have threads that go to a point, not the self-tappers. Use the tires that are already on your bike - just screw 'em up and go.

Screws are best for riding frozen trails - like riding on asphalt. For pond ice, they might be a bit slippy, but it'll get you out there for little more than five bucks.

2904596823_059a3d1a1b_z_d.jpg?zz=1

JayC

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Hey! You're a Minnesote. Check out CL and buy a set of real ice tires made by Larson, Berg or Fredette.

If you have an 18 rear PM me.

I also plow a track...when there's snow. I live in Delano.

Oops! I just checked. CL is bare of ice tires just now.

Be advised however. DO NOT OPERATE A BIKE WITH ICE TIRES ON ANYTHING BUT ICE. You will destroy the rear tire immediately.

Here's what they look like.

iceset2.jpg

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I recently looked into it and the Kenda K335 tire seems to be very popular for studding up and appears to be the same tire that Shagger has bought.

I'm going to try my luck at building my own tire following this video offered on Kold Kutters website:

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I have built a few snow and ice tires.

Screws suck, the pull out. You are going to hit ground here and there,, screws will last a few hours at best. Well at least if you screw them in and use the heads as the stud.

I use used tires, you dont need new edges the spikes do the work.

On the front that is fine and lasts well. I run the front with 1/2" hex head sheet metal screws screwed into each knob.

The rear I used #12x 1 1/4" pan head screws out through the knobs. You have to pre drill each one from the outside in. Then use a power screwer to screw them into the holes from the inside out. Set them in deep, Then cover the heads with some duct tape.

The most important part is to then use and old inner tube for a liner. Cut the valve stem off it, then slit it around the inside of the tube. Slightly infate your tube that you will use, then rap it arond the tube, put some tape on it loosly to keep it in place. Then fight it into the tire on the rim like you are mounting a moose tube. Make sure you do not spin the liner and it stays inplace protecting the tube all the way around. This is the most important part of making it work. You will get flats without it. With it I have never got a flat. And I hit 50 foot doubles with it in the snow and ice. I run 14-15 psi.

My 450mx bike will run with snow mobiles on hard pack and any fluffy stuff up to about 2 feet deep. 4x4 quads without snow chains will not go anywhere comared to this. 4th 5th gear wheelies on frozen lake is no big deal. If the snow is too wet and deep it will pack on the front wheel and that sucks.

A buddy of mine built one using snow mobile studs. It is bad azz. And I think I may do that this year.

Heres a few pics of the setup on my old CR250. And a pic of the tires.

RearTire.jpg

CR250winter.jpg

IMGP1301.jpg

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Thanks for the feedback. In past years I've had some success with running 1/2" gold screws into stock tires but screws pull out or lugs get tore off. I run an older CR250.

I want a permanent set of tires that will hold up so they can be used year after year. A couple friends have ran Kenda rears with stock fronts, similar setup to what shagger is showing. Rears hold up but fronts go.

shagger, we plow a track and make jumps on the St. Croix down by Stillwater. It doesn't suck.

I'll look into those various brands. Thanks.

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Look for a used set of ice tires that were built by a pro like Freddette or one of the others, a used and chunked set over pro-built tires will work better and cost you less in the long run.

It doesn't look like it but there is an art to making ice only tires, if your dead set on the DIY method and have no plans on racing use the taller canadian screws, there a little less picky of screw angle.

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Is it ideal to run the same head size screws front and back? KTM300 talked about running Kold Kutter Canadians cause they have taller heads but I have allot of the shorter head gold screws laying around. I understand trying to get a balance between the front and back setup so does screw head height play a big part in this?

Thanks

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hopefully this helps

or if your looking for already made tires i have a guy, new sets go for around 650 ft and back and he has some used sets for 300-400 send me a message if you want his number

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If you are not going to race, studs give you the most versatility and give you the ability to run on virtually any surface. They are long lasting if you don't abuse them and don't get dull instantly like screws if you take them off of a pure ice surface.

Here's a little Alaska riding:

Regards,

Mr. BigWheel

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