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Post a Plug PIC or your perfectly Jetted CR

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Let’s see a Plug PIC of your perfectly jetted CR

Just note what you run:

Pump, Full race fuel, or a MIX of both

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You have the same bike as me!

Get yourself a PWK Airstriker carb, then YOU can show us plug pics from

YOUR perfectly jetted bike!

:bonk:

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You have the same bike as me!

Get yourself a PWK Airstriker carb, then YOU can show us plug pics from

YOUR perfectly jetted bike!

:bonk:

40660.jpg

24-0 hard to debate that. period.

:smirk:

Thanks for the fun guys, I needed that

I've been trying to educate myself while allowing others to learn as well. Nothing like believing something for years and finding out its been wrong the whole time. You may also know these types of people - they know it all and use no discernment, always talking but never listening. I choose not to be like this if I can help it. I try to keep myself from being vulnerable from misguided advice.

There is a lot of experience and knowledge on this site.

Thanks to Megadeath and GM0397, I realize now that its not the plug read as much as the sound/feel of the bike along with proper piston mapping and That a plug read is not a tell all due to fuel types.

I would like to continue this thread in hopes that the truly knowledgeable people in this area of expertise that are members on this site can interact with the ones that want to learn. I en fact want to learn

This is my plug pick with about 10 hous

50/50 Ethanol free and CAM2 and BTW - 38mm Keihin A/S (06 RM250)

Sorry, No pick of the piston top but it was relatively clean

can anyone post a pic of a properly mapped piston top? and please comment on my plug

DSC00760.jpg

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:lol:Thanks to Megadeath and GM0397, I realize now that its not the plug read as much as the sound/feel of the bike along with proper piston mapping and That a plug read is not a tell all due to fuel types.

This is my plug pick with about 10 hous

50/50 Ethanol free and CAM2 and BTW - 38mm Keihin A/S (06 RM250)

Sorry, No pick of the piston top but it was relatively clean

can anyone post a pic of a properly mapped piston top? and please comment on my plug

That plug looks pretty good. But again as I briefly touched on in your previous thread, there are many different things that can change a plug color.

Jetting is also one of those things that can be a very long and tiresome skill to learn. I've spent hours on hours at the track swapping brass and I still do to this day. I've found jetting my feel and sound is the best way to get a properly jetted bike. I used to read plugs hoping to find a mocha color. I could never arrive at the perfect mocha color and every time I took the head off the piston didn't match the jetting the plug said I had. Through all of this process of swapping brass, checking plugs and heads you start to feel and hear the differences between rich and lean. Though being barely rich and a tad lean can be very hard to diagnose the difference.

If I were to have to teach someone, I would tell them to put in the stock jetting and ride for an hour. Then go up one size on the pilot and repeat. Then go one size below stock on the pilot and repeat. Then analyze the differences and choose which was best. Then grab a few needles and do this process again with different needles and clips. Then the main. At the end of this experiment the user has countless hours with various jets and they will have a good feel for the difference.

Now we just need to convince the bike engineers that we need easier access to these jets!!

That's my 2 cents, hopefully it helps someone. In the interest of the thread below are pictures of my spark plug with around 15-20 hours and piston with 40 hours which were ran simultaneously.

The spark plug looks lean according to many jetting pictorials. The piston is rich shown by the piston wash and hard deposits.

2011-11-23193228.jpg

2011-11-23192819.jpg

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Now we just need to convince the bike engineers that we need easier access to these jets!!

Sorry I don't have any pics, but I must absolutely agree with the above statement. Something with quick easy access would be nice!!!

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That plug looks pretty good. But again as I briefly touched on in your previous thread, there are many different things that can change a plug color.

Jetting is also one of those things that can be a very long and tiresome skill to learn. I've spent hours on hours at the track swapping brass and I still do to this day. I've found jetting my feel and sound is the best way to get a properly jetted bike. I used to read plugs hoping to find a mocha color. I could never arrive at the perfect mocha color and every time I took the head off the piston didn't match the jetting the plug said I had. Through all of this process of swapping brass, checking plugs and heads you start to feel and hear the differences between rich and lean. Though being barely rich and a tad lean can be very hard to diagnose the difference.

If I were to have to teach someone, I would tell them to put in the stock jetting and ride for an hour. Then go up one size on the pilot and repeat. Then go one size below stock on the pilot and repeat. Then analyze the differences and choose which was best. Then grab a few needles and do this process again with different needles and clips. Then the main. At the end of this experiment the user has countless hours with various jets and they will have a good feel for the difference.

Now we just need to convince the bike engineers that we need easier access to these jets!!

That's my 2 cents, hopefully it helps someone. In the interest of the thread below are pictures of my spark plug with around 15-20 hours and piston with 40 hours which were ran simultaneously.

The spark plug looks lean according to many jetting pictorials. The piston is rich shown by the piston wash and hard deposits.

Thanks for the info, this makes a lot of sense. This is my first year on this bike so this is probably a dumb question to most.

I do have a Keihin PWK installed and I am wondering what temperature range should I expect out a given jetting adjustment?

For example:

I adjusted my jetting this past summer when temps ranged from 95-100 degrees so what temperature range would you say that I should expect to go richer with Needle, Main or both? - (not referring about minor a/s adjustments)

The reason I ask is when the temps dropped in the low to mid 60’s I just assumed before riding - and went richer one clip and 1 higher on the main – talk about rich, my plug was black and piston was solid black with carbon so now I’m thinking that temps could go down much further maybe 40’s? 50’s? before I should be concerned of a lean condition??

The guys out here running Hare Scramble and ride all year round don’t even bother jetting – they set it and forget it or have it set for them and they forget about it.

Like I said this is my first year riding this bike and I’m not sure what to expect.

Edited by gitenold

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Honda manual suggest different jetting between the following temp (*F) ranges:

-21-0, -1-20, 19-40, 39-60, 59-80, 79-100, 99-120

Elevation changes noted as significant include:

0-999, 1,000-2,499, 2,500-4,999, 5,000-7,499, 7,500-10,000

Each receive different jets.

Riding at -21*F at 10,000 feet may encounter some snow. That is just one hypothesis however. :bonk:

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Honda manual suggest different jetting between the following temp (*F) ranges:

-21-0, -1-20, 19-40, 39-60, 59-80, 79-100, 99-120

Elevation changes noted as significant include:

0-999, 1,000-2,499, 2,500-4,999, 5,000-7,499, 7,500-10,000

Each receive different jets.

Riding at -21*F at 10,000 feet may encounter some snow. That is just one hypothesis however. :bonk:

Thanks shrubitup

I get my Cylinder back from Mr. Gorr in a week or two and then I will start paying a lot more attention to my jetting procedure and build my own jetting chart.

I don't think I'll include -20*F @ 10,000':thinking:

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Here is why these post dont really help a whole lot of people out. sure it helps to get in the ballpark, but you dont see a lot of slide, needle, emulsion tube changes. everyone list main, pilot and needle. Those are all small minor jetting changes that can change with the temp and elevation. Jetting changes constantly! That is why FI was invented. We could have the same bike, but you live 500' above me and in a more humid part of the country. well guess what we wont have the same jetting. And if we both had the jetting about as perfect as can be, the plugs would look the same. Also jetting a bike now during the winter and well putting it away until riding season when the weather warms, well you will be rejetting or adjusting the needle clip and or air screw. yes jetting is something that you need to have a feeling for. Know when to go richer and leaner. But if you follow the basics of how to jet a carb starting with the main jet, you can dial it in quickly:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/printcarbtuning.html

You should spend more time with some brass out testing then on the keyboard here. Keep down the 50 or so threads a month about jetting, plug chops, look at my bike. Just add to the ones already on the board.

And I have been working on bikes for 30+ years now. I dont know everything, but jetting really is pretty simple. Its nice when people ride your bike, they have the exact same model then ask "I want my bike to run like your! no bog, power, easy starting, no hesitation!!!" And then people ask you about their bike and you can tell them what they need cause you have done 20 of them like the 06yz250f or 05-06 CRF450Rs or KDX250s, or CR125/250s etc etc.

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Here is why these post dont really help a whole lot of people out. sure it helps to get in the ballpark, but you dont see a lot of slide, needle, emulsion tube changes. everyone list main, pilot and needle. Those are all small minor jetting changes that can change with the temp and elevation. Jetting changes constantly! That is why FI was invented. We could have the same bike, but you live 500' above me and in a more humid part of the country. well guess what we wont have the same jetting. And if we both had the jetting about as perfect as can be, the plugs would look the same. Also jetting a bike now during the winter and well putting it away until riding season when the weather warms, well you will be rejetting or adjusting the needle clip and or air screw. yes jetting is something that you need to have a feeling for. Know when to go richer and leaner. But if you follow the basics of how to jet a carb starting with the main jet, you can dial it in quickly:

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/printcarbtuning.html

You should spend more time with some brass out testing then on the keyboard here. Keep down the 50 or so threads a month about jetting, plug chops, look at my bike. Just add to the ones already on the board.

And I have been working on bikes for 30+ years now. I dont know everything, but jetting really is pretty simple. Its nice when people ride your bike, they have the exact same model then ask "I want my bike to run like your! no bog, power, easy starting, no hesitation!!!" And then people ask you about their bike and you can tell them what they need cause you have done 20 of them like the 06yz250f or 05-06 CRF450Rs or KDX250s, or CR125/250s etc etc.

Thanks for the feedback JJrace,

I hope you don't think I jet from a Keyboard, I learn by doing and reading and doing but when I have a question, this is my only resource. Some things they don't put in articles. I'm sure it would be difficult for you to put 30 years of experience in one jetting document.

I never said I could not jet, Jetting is easy, I just wanted to clarify the objective and and know what to expect with some degree with temp variations. I don't want to get into humidity variables because I do like riding more then jetting.

If your wondering why im not out swapping brass, its because my bike is completely tore down for PM and cylinders out to Mr. Gorr for a few weeks.

Your right, I picked up jetting pretty easily and starting with the main and working down is the procedure I use and it does work great.

Now my friend that only last year talked me into getting a bike wants me to jet his YZ.

Thanks again, Its great to be able to tap into the knowledge and experience of people such as yourself.

Now if you ever need to fix a Siemens Axiom Artis Neuro/Cath/Angio System, let me know - I'll give you free technical support:thumbsup:

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