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General Questions about setting up my 97 CR250 for woods w Pics

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First thing girlfriend said is "Is that a pink bike?" :bonk: It's a lot pinker than I was expecting.

Drove 2.5 hours round trip for the bike. Paid $750. Supposed to have had the crank, bearings, 10 over piston and jug sleeved back in 06. Compression show 130 on my gauge. Seems low, but I don't know about the bike. It ran out great. How's that sound to you guys? Took the muffler off and it looks good.

Anyone know what sag I should have?

Needs front and rear brake disc guards. And the owners manual, anyone got them please post or message me.

Rear wheel bearing is loose, can I get those bearings at an auto store?

The subframe is tweaked to the right an inch or so. You guys think I can kick it back into alignment? LOL I can't figure out how else to try to straighten it.

Is Castrol 10w40 what I'm supposed to run in the tranny? I can't remember. Also what ratio oil/fuel mix everyone running now a days? Used to run 32:1 a few years ago, but all the 2 cycle power equipment dealers have me running 50:1 in their stuff. Even a thirty year old Stihl chainsaw. Be nice to know what's up.

I can't take my hands off it. Already tore it down to the frame, swing arm and engine. Cleaning everything and checking bolts for tightness. Quite a few bolts loose all over the bike.

Airbox was sooo dirty, it's sitting in a bucket with hot water, gonna soak all night and get cleaned tomo.

All the original white plastic parts like the fork covers and rad covers are sitting in water and bleach, hoping they whiten up. Anyone else ever tried that?

My goal is to get this bike woods ready on the cheap. What do you guys think. Also any riders in my neck of the woods check in. Gonna try to get people together.

Feels so good to have a bike again. Gonna try to not let it distract me too much.

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photobucket-1671-1324700244064.jpg

photobucket-1923-1324700278731.jpg

First thing girlfriend said is "Is that a pink bike?" :smirk: It's a lot pinker than I was expecting.

Drove 2.5 hours round trip for the bike. Paid $750. Supposed to have had the crank, bearings, 10 over piston and jug sleeved back in 06. Compression show 130 on my gauge. Seems low, but I don't know about the bike. It ran out great. How's that sound to you guys? Took the muffler off and it looks good.

Anyone know what sag I should have?

Nope, find a manual or start at 100mm and go from there. Adjust all clickers to about the middle settings. (this is just a starting point)

Needs front and rear brake disc guards. And the owners manual, anyone got them please post or message me.

Why do you need disc guards? A rear one, like a shark fin might be a good idea in really rock situations but a front one (most are plastic) are only going to flex if hit hard and bend the rotor anyway. IMO, I wouldnt run a front.

Rear wheel bearing is loose, can I get those bearings at an auto store?

Depending on which auto store. Either go to a bearing shop or your local dealer if your not sure, it can be a lot easier.

The subframe is tweaked to the right an inch or so. You guys think I can kick it back into alignment? LOL I can't figure out how else to try to straighten it.

When I bent mine (girlfriend dropped bike out of truck box) I just shut the gas off, layed the bike on its side and somewhat jumped on it, it straightend it perfect, might work for you also.

Is Castrol 10w40 what I'm supposed to run in the tranny? I can't remember.

10w40 Rotella will work good.

Also what ratio oil/fuel mix everyone running now a days? Used to run 32:1 a few years ago, but all the 2 cycle power equipment dealers have me running 50:1 in their stuff. Even a thirty year old Stihl chainsaw. Be nice to know what's up.

Im running 60:1, on a new KTM though. Jetting is whats most important though.

I can't take my hands off it. Already tore it down to the frame, swing arm and engine. Cleaning everything and checking bolts for tightness. Quite a few bolts loose all over the bike.

Airbox was sooo dirty, it's sitting in a bucket with hot water, gonna soak all night and get cleaned tomo.

All the original white plastic parts like the fork covers and rad covers are sitting in water and bleach, hoping they whiten up. Anyone else ever tried that?

No....

My goal is to get this bike woods ready on the cheap. What do you guys think. Also any riders in my neck of the woods check in. Gonna try to get people together.

Feels so good to have a bike again. Gonna try to not let it distract me too much.

Just enjoy your bike. Tires and gas should be your only major purchase after the obvious things like handguards, skid plate and radiator guards.

Good luck and nice find!:bonk:

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40:1 and 50:1 if you never open it up are appropriate. Do not use 60:1 unless it's a trials bike. You can literally use any kind of oil you want in the transmission. I use ATF.

Thanks :bonk:

I'll try 40:1 and see what my new plug looks like. I tried ATF in my old 2000 RM250 and it started popping out of gear, until I went back to Castrol.

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Very nice to see another 97-99 cr250 on this forum.

Honestly, you cannot use just "whatever" you want in the tranny. There is an entire thread on this, but you need to make sure you use something designed for wet clutches. I went to autozone to their motorcycle section and got their valvoline 10w30 designed for wet clutches. Used to use ATF. Literally felt the difference after the switch.

You need to make sure that bike is jetted correctly and at least not running lean. I have the 97-99 cr250 owners manual on my computer so I can get you any jet specs that you need or anything else as far as torque values, whatever!

Release the air from the forks with the flat head screwdriver at the top, air filter for sure, tranny oil change, clean carb, pack silencer, install top end piston, check reeds and gasket, hub bearings I got for the cheapness you can get anywhere I got the all balls kit, brakes, set up your suspension, the list goes on, basically you need to assume this entire bike has been neglected and make it right right off the bat!!

Also if you want your frame to look like this:

IMAG0523.jpg

IMAG0514.jpg

Get some nevrdull and get to work!!

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Damn, that is sick, BlackCR250. More pics of that bike when you get a chance. LOL

I have a GMC truck, too. :bonk:

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I still have my air filter oil and a cleaning bucket with mineral spirits, an extra rear tube, an oem spark plug multi tool from an xr4, and a fanny pack loaded with zip ties and small tools. Riders behind me are getting mud clods from twenty feet high.

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Here ya go buddy. I'm riding Chevrolet, but all the same! I literally just ordered my white plastics kit that will get a black/red graphics theme to sort of keep my theme going. Notice my buddies dope 11' crf450 (drool) but I'm a 2 stroke man all the way.

IMAG0537.jpg

IMAG0529.jpg

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The bike has that hideous 01 rear fender from when my throttle stuck to WFO in the middle of a stand up wheelie at the track lulz

We have since then installed all new throttle housing, tube, and cable. I highly recommend this motion pro vortex setup, it is amazing.

IMAG0506.jpg

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New seat cover that should go perfect with the new UFO white plastic kit

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/pic whoring

Just ordered a ton of stuff from Motosport plastics, boyesen power reeds, all kinds of gasket, OEM stuff, jets, Wiseco pro lite piston kit, silencer packing...We're about to do my top end this week after I get my riding itch scratched monday.

Again man I have the 97-99 cr250 manual if you need anything. I want to send it to you but I tried to email to a buddy once but the file was too large. I'll be happy to send it to you some other way if you know how.

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Nice pics. Loving that black seat. And the black truck. I used to have black 88 sierra with red interior.

I got a trailer with traps like that. You mowing lawns?

Sounds like Christmas over in your garage. LOL You take such good care of that bike.

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Nice pics. Loving that black seat. And the black truck. I used to have black 88 sierra with red interior.

I got a trailer with traps like that. You mowing lawns?

Sounds like Christmas over in your garage. LOL You take such good care of that bike.

Thanks a lot man, I love the black seat too but I tell you it was IMPOSSIBLE to find that seat cover, impossible I say...See I used to own this bike 4 years ago before I went off to college when I did the black plastics and most stuff, and I sold it needing rent $. Never even met the guy I sold it to. It went through 2 owners over 4 years and I randomly all by chance came across it by the most insanely random coincidence. My buddy with the 450 met the 2nd guy who owned it and called me because I let him ride the bike 1 time. He remembered a firefighter decal I had on it lol So, I bought it back and slowly making it cherry again. It mainly sat. I got it back with the same MF'ing air filter and spark plug I put in it 4 years prior LOL

I do cut grass during the summer. Starting my own business was the best thing I ever did. I keep my lawn equipment as clean as my truck and bike even though they all get dirty as soon as they get used. I keep my frame like a mirror but even after just kicking it over with my alpinestars on it has black hit marks all over the lower frame LOL but I'm real big on cleaning and maintenance. I almost shit when I seen that filter and plug in my bike after 4 years. Good thing neither of the owners hardly rode it. They were the type to buy it just to sit on it and make the noises and tell girls they had a dirtbike....Douchebags. Again though thanks for the compliments man and let me know whenever you need something out of the manual as I'm sure you will!!! :bonk::smirk::banana:

Griffin

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photobucket-1671-1324700244064.jpg

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First thing girlfriend said is "Is that a pink bike?" :bonk: It's a lot pinker than I was expecting.

Drove 2.5 hours round trip for the bike. Paid $750. Supposed to have had the crank, bearings, 10 over piston and jug sleeved back in 06. Compression show 130 on my gauge. Seems low, but I don't know about the bike. It ran out great. How's that sound to you guys? Took the muffler off and it looks good.

Anyone know what sag I should have?

Needs front and rear brake disc guards. And the owners manual, anyone got them please post or message me.

Rear wheel bearing is loose, can I get those bearings at an auto store?

The subframe is tweaked to the right an inch or so. You guys think I can kick it back into alignment? LOL I can't figure out how else to try to straighten it.

Is Castrol 10w40 what I'm supposed to run in the tranny? I can't remember. Also what ratio oil/fuel mix everyone running now a days? Used to run 32:1 a few years ago, but all the 2 cycle power equipment dealers have me running 50:1 in their stuff. Even a thirty year old Stihl chainsaw. Be nice to know what's up.

I can't take my hands off it. Already tore it down to the frame, swing arm and engine. Cleaning everything and checking bolts for tightness. Quite a few bolts loose all over the bike.

Airbox was sooo dirty, it's sitting in a bucket with hot water, gonna soak all night and get cleaned tomo.

All the original white plastic parts like the fork covers and rad covers are sitting in water and bleach, hoping they whiten up. Anyone else ever tried that?

My goal is to get this bike woods ready on the cheap. What do you guys think. Also any riders in my neck of the woods check in. Gonna try to get people together.

Feels so good to have a bike again. Gonna try to not let it distract me too much.

That thing is clean, a great deal for $750.

I'd try the sag at 100-105mm. Bearings can be had from any online shop (Rocky MTN ATV, TT Store, etc.). You might be able to straighten the subframe by hose clamping a long bar to it and pulling on it, but a used replacement off Ebay might be less trouble. I use Shell Rotella 15w40 from Walmart ($14 a gallon) for trans oil, works great and is cheap to replace every 6-7 hrs. Any good synthetic premix at 32:1 or 40:1 will do a good job of protecting the engine.

I would also re-grease and or replace every non sealed bearing on the bike (shock lower, swing arm, link, steering head, etc). Most used bikes are neglected in this area.

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why on earth do people use oil ratios that high, you dont get more power and parts wear out faster, I understand dealers incentive to have parts wear faster, maybe that's the reason.

32:1

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Front disc guard helps keep the water/mud/sand/gravel from getting into between the front brake rotors & pads. Rear guard helps keep the rear rotor from getting bent by the occasional rock/tree/buddy's bike when you're rippin it up in the single track.:bonk::lol:

Not sure ift hey have them at your auto parts store (never found them at mine), but All Balls makes them, shop around for about $15 for the set online.

I got a non-bent rear subframe from eBay for $40.

As others have said, 40:1 is cool for the premix. I'd be scared to run 50:1 on mine, but I ride it hard. If you're putting you could probably get away with it. Hell, if nothing else the smoke keeps the skeeters away...

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The front and rear disc guards seem to be very controversial on this forum. Some swear by them, some think they literally just get in the way.

I definitely go with all balls bearings for everything. I've purchased my rear wheel bearings but still have to do them, but I still need to do my shock, linkage, swing arm and head set!!! I've got a top end to install first though!

I've also heard that you can go to somewhere where they sell all kinds of bearings, match up all the ones you need and be set for literally 1/4 the cost...Can't remember where they said to go, the "bearing store" I guess LOL

As for premix, when I used to own this bike I idiotically ran 50:1 in it like I do for my lawn equipment, but every knowledgeable mechanic and even the service manual calls for 32:1.

Also MXHALOFAN, I highly suggest going to your local dealer and picking up a big jug of KLOTZ super techni plate to use as your premix. I and my friends have been using this stuff for YEARS and when it comes down to brake down the motor, it always burns clean and you simply CANNOT beat the smell of Klotz...I'm drooling right now thinking about it. That's my .02

Griffin

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why on earth do people use oil ratios that high, you dont get more power and parts wear out faster, I understand dealers incentive to have parts wear faster, maybe that's the reason.

32:1

On my last CR, I did the top and bottom end when I got it, then 4 top ends before I sold it. The first 2 top ends at 32:1 didn't last any longer than the 2 I ran at 40:1, and the bottom end was still tight when the guy that bought it from me did the next top end a year after he got it.

More oil doesn't necessarily mean less wear. If it doesn't wear faster at 40:1 than it did at 32:1, then it doesn't need 32:1. The manufacturer always wants to err on the side of caution, and they sell more oil when you run 32:1.

As far as more power, the less oil you run the more volume is available for fuel. More oil = leaner mixture for the same pilot/needle/jet size. At 32 or 40:1 it's not a huge difference but it is a difference, especially when you consider the best power is reached around 12.5:1 A/F ratio.

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why on earth do people use oil ratios that high, you dont get more power and parts wear out faster, I understand dealers incentive to have parts wear faster, maybe that's the reason.

32:1

true, but i myself perfer to run 40:1. not only do i jet for air/fuel, temp and altitude, i jet for the amount of oil i premix. the heavier the oil mix, the leaner it will run, the lower the oil mix, the richer it runs. thats what i've been taught a long time ago and i have always set my jetting that way. i do plug chops whenever i make changes and also when the weather changes since i live here in michigan. always seem to have drastic temp changes.:bonk:

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On my last CR, I did the top and bottom end when I got it, then 4 top ends before I sold it. The first 2 top ends at 32:1 didn't last any longer than the 2 I ran at 40:1, and the bottom end was still tight when the guy that bought it from me did the next top end a year after he got it.

More oil doesn't necessarily mean less wear. If it doesn't wear faster at 40:1 than it did at 32:1, then it doesn't need 32:1. The manufacturer always wants to err on the side of caution, and they sell more oil when you run 32:1.

As far as more power, the less oil you run the more volume is available for fuel. More oil = leaner mixture for the same pilot/needle/jet size. At 32 or 40:1 it's not a huge difference but it is a difference, especially when you consider the best power is reached around 12.5:1 A/F ratio.

lol, i didnt get down this far in the thread before i posted. 100% agree:thumbsup:

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