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drz 250 2001

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Hi all. I'm new here, and I am a cycleholic. I just bought my first modern bike, a 2001 drz 250. I am in need of an ignition cover. If you have or know who does please let me know.

Also is there anything I should know about the bike good or bad? Looking forward to your input.

Joey

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What mods have previous owners done? Bike livens up with re-jetting and removing snorkel. Suspension is compliant but soft for heavier riders. Also, build up of weld at header to cylinder joint should be ground out. No major issues with this bike.

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For me two simple things made the bike start easier and run a lot better. Back out the fuel screw so that it is at around 2-1/4 turns and drill out the exhaust tip with a 1-3/8" holesaw, not affecting the spark arrestor.

holesaw.jpg

These plus a few other improvements are covered in this book you can download for $19.95. It was $12.00 a couple years ago and I think, well worth it. http://www.lulu.com/product/paperback/how-to-uncork-the-suzuki-dr-z250/2520480 If I become one of your best friends, do you do any duck hunting in Arkansas? :bonk:

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Thanks Glen. The bike is bone stock except for fmf pipe. What jetting changes do you recomend?

There are two types of carbs on the DRZ. The most common is the 28mm pumper carb and the least common is the 32mm CV carb used in CA and all late 2006 and 2007 bikes. Mine has the 32mm carb as it is a late 2006. I went up one on the pilot jet and two sizes on the main. Removed the snorkel and added (4) 1" holes in the airbox top and right side upper portion. I raised the needle by shimming .070" with a small washer, left the fuel screw at 2 3/4 turns out. Also ground header welds and installed UNI filter. I am assuming you have the 49 state 28mm carb, so my jetting wouldn't apply. You do have a FMF pipe which will lean the mixture. I bought the modification PDF mentioned here. It is pretty good.

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You probably have the TM28mm flat-side carb, but double check to make sure. Different carbs use different jets. The TM28 carb has a flat, triangular shaped metal cover on the top, while the BSR32 has a round black plastic top. The recommended jet part numbers in the PDF file "How to Uncork the DR-Z250 For Under $100" are incorrect for the 28mm carb, as I discovered the hard way :bonk: It is obvious that the author does not even have the TM28, since all his photos in the PDF are of the BSR32 carb.

Please note that jetting requirements are dependent on many factors, including your mods, the altitude you ride at, and the temperature. If you open up your airbox, grind out the weld in the exhaust header, or use an aftermarket silencer, then you have leaned out the air:fuel (A/F) mixture, and might benefit from bigger jets. If you live at higher altitude (i.e., 3-10k feet above sea level), then your bike might already be plenty rich, even with intake and exhaust mods. Likewise, if you ride in a hotter climate, then your A/F ratio will be richer than with colder temperatures. Colder air is more dense and provides more O2, so it creates a leaner A/F mixture. You have to find what works best for YOUR bike, in YOUR riding environment. Don't just change jets because someone on the internet told you to.

The stock TM28 uses a #127.5 main jet (type large round N100.604) and a #37.5 pilot jet (type VM28/486). The needle is not removable from it's housing, so it can not be shimmed or adjusted. I found my bike to be difficult to start cold (in hot or cold weather, I'm at 1200ft altitude, and have ground out the header weld and have a Yoshi silencer). This is usually a sign of a lean pilot circuit. You can try to richen up the circuit by turning the fuel screw out (counterclockwise), or change the pilot jet to a #40. You can also richen up the main jet if you find the bike lacking at half or full throttle. I would recommend starting with a #135 main jet, and maybe a #140 max.

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