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cylinder head/piston removal inspection

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So my pv was all nasty so i decided to pull the jug off and check ecerything out since i just bought this biike this year and dnt know whats in it. Took reeds off and there was no light imbetween the pedals. Spark plug was a dark mocha color seemed real good and the right color. What should i do to clean the piston and what should i check for and the cylinder what should i look for ima add some pics

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above this is b4 i took apart the pv mechanism

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after i took out the pv linkage. SOOO dirty! its not that gummed up it moves freely

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well i got the motor tore out of the bike gonna go thru it an chck everything. will post pics soon eventhough nobody even messaged yet

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the hone is still visible. Oil was still on the piston when i removed it with the cylinder. I used purple power from auto store left the pv components in purple power over night bing clean. Ended up pulling the whole motor and im gona replace all gaskets, oil seals and look inside the case. Ill go take pictures and post how its lookin. Thanks for all the advice

Best gaskets i can get? oem, athena? Best top end?

How to know when to replace bottom end?

Thanks Again. All this work is being done on a 2000 cr250

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Best gaskets i can get? oem, athena? Best top end?

How to know when to replace bottom end?

Thanks Again. All this work is being done on a 2000 cr250

Cometic or OEM gaskets are best but I buy Tusk. :bonk: Grab ahold of flywheel. Try to move up/down and in/out. Should not be any play. Dump 1/16 gallon of diesel into bottom end. Spin crank around. It should not catch or stop or grind on anything. Best top end is OEM, Vertex, Pro X, Namura - IMO all the same since they're cast. If you want forged then either Wiseco or Wossner. IMO, forged pistons are noisy at idle.

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Is there anything i can soak the cylinder head in so i can get all the way in all the cracks? It would be nice to get all the way clean.

An dumping diesel in the bottom end isn't bad for it? So by telling if there is any play i can determine whether or not is is bad? also when i pull the r side case off am i gonna have to pull the clutch off to see the gears/transmition?

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Is there anything i can soak the cylinder head in so i can get all the way in all the cracks? It would be nice to get all the way clean.

An dumping diesel in the bottom end isn't bad for it? So by telling if there is any play i can determine whether or not is is bad? also when i pull the r side case off am i gonna have to pull the clutch off to see the gears/transmition?

Buy a jug of berryman's to soak it in; hell gasoline could do it too but it's flammable as hell uncovered. Will hafta remove clutch to see transmission. Will need to split cases too. Diesel is a lubricant and won't corrode anything. Measurements are shown in your manual to determine if it's worn past limits.

Use scrotch brite pad and WD40 to remove surficial scratches on bore. Helps to bring cross hatch back. Either that or a ball hone.

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what kind of scotch brite pad? will just scrubing it with the pad will take away the scratches on the surface? theres a lil play left to right but nothing else on the crank seems fine to me spins freely.

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what kind of scotch brite pad? will just scrubing it with the pad will take away the scratches on the surface? theres a lil play left to right but nothing else on the crank seems fine to me spins freely.

Green one. Scrub with WD. L to R is typical just make sure within tolerance.

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Its less than 1/8th play L to R ima check ma manual. An when u say the green one do u mean the green medium duty scotchbrite pad kind or the one with yellow and green that u would use for dishes? Is there any specific way to "scrub" the cylinder? should i use a finer duty pad? Have u ever done this to ur cylinder? Have u ever soaked ur cylinder in berrymans b12? i just dnt wanna mess anything up wit the plating by scratching it or using the wrong chemical, that is my biggest concern.

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Its less than 1/8th play L to R ima check ma manual. An when u say the green one do u mean the green medium duty scotchbrite pad kind or the one with yellow and green that u would use for dishes? Is there any specific way to "scrub" the cylinder? should i use a finer duty pad? Have u ever done this to ur cylinder? Have u ever soaked ur cylinder in berrymans b12? i just dnt wanna mess anything up wit the plating by scratching it or using the wrong chemical, that is my biggest concern.

You want to re-establish the 45* cross hatch. Best way is to use ball hone. Talking 'bout the medium duty green only scrotch brite pad. You're just de-glazing surface. Yes, Have done it myself. You don't need to dip jug in B-12. Usually you just deglaze and then hot water and dish soap to remove particles left by scotch brite. Use the B-12 on P/V.

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dont know much more/less your bike was used then mine, but for $300 in parts you can have a completely new top and bottom end to start fresh on assuming you have all the tools to take it apart and put it together.

$300 bucks in wiseco ("oh noez, not wiseco!") and youre good. i believe they updated the cranks that are used in the 92-01 hondas.

i didnt think my bottom end was bad since it didnt have any up and down play, but once split, i found out how much play was actually felt in the main bearings since i could really tug on it easier.

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dont know much more/less your bike was used then mine, but for $300 in parts you can have a completely new top and bottom end to start fresh on assuming you have all the tools to take it apart and put it together.

$300 bucks in wiseco ("oh noez, not wiseco!") and youre good. i believe they updated the cranks that are used in the 92-01 hondas.

i didnt think my bottom end was bad since it didnt have any up and down play, but once split, i found out how much play was actually felt in the main bearings since i could really tug on it easier.

I bought a Hot Rods crank and seals and a Namura piston with all gaskets for $315 but got 10% off and $50 back from RM coz I burned another G at their online magic shoppe.

Wiseco doubter here. :bonk:

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That bike looks like it may not a lot of time on it. I wouldn't split the cases or replace the crank unless there was detectable vertical movement in the rod or lateral movement in the crank. I would suggest using all OEM parts, especially the gaskets. You can get all the top end parts and gaskets for about $125 through these guys. http://www.cyclecentralpowersports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=138734&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=3271

In the unlikely event that you need a new crank, an OEM crank through the same shop is only $222.

Edited by CamP

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Thanks CamP! i checked the site and it was around 140 for gaskets and everything, circlips, pin, and needle bearing. Also found a weisco piston kit for 150 plus shipping (9.99 S+H). I just don't know what the big difference is between forged v cast. All i know is casted pistons are made in a cast mold and forged pistons are pressed into shape right?

Debating weather or not to tear the whole motor down? lot of work for something that runs awesome already, i did all this cause i was bored and insurance. Is it really worth it to break it all the way down when it was running great before? Alot of the case pullers in the Manuel could be home made with a piece of metal an some holes drilled/cut and some bolts or refashion a gear puller to work. Im a diy guy myself and figure i dont gotta pay 100 bucks for something i could make.

Also couldn't find a piston id letter on my piston it doesn't look oem probably like pro x or something. where shoud i look? Also how do i get the circlips out of the piston for removal

DSCN0378.jpg

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