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Dual Sport Conversion

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Hey all, it's been a minute but it's winter, so it's project time, and that means TT time. I'm converting my '01 YZ (well, trying to) to a dual sport. I checked with the bike shop and here's what I need to pass for DOT in Maryland...

Mirrors, signals (front and rear), headlight, taillight, license plate light, horn, brake light switches on front and rear brakes, and DOT approved tires (I'm thinking about running trials tires)

So pretty much the works. Front brake switch is wired into the rear, so that's good as well. I've been running a Baja Designs Enduro kit (headlight, taillight, rear brake switch) for some time with a "45w" stator but it can hardly power the CDI and the 35w headlight at the same time, so I'm looking at running the new components off of a 12v 1000mAh rechargeable battery pack tucked into the airbox and leaving the ignition to the AC stator. Question A: Would this work? The conversions I found online said that I could run around 45-50w for about 16 hours without a charge. But here's Question B: Would THIS (on the other side of the airbox) hook up to the lighting output of the stator and charge THIS while the bike was running? That seems too easy. I'm not electrically inclined, so I'm sorry if that's a dumb question. I have searched and I see a lot of threads about people converting on other bikes and most of them just use some sort of kickass stator that they don't make for YZ's or have to float grounds? Whatever that means.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as always. Hope everyone had a safe and happy holiday!

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In my eyes dual sport gives you just a compromise on both ends. Not really good at off road and not really good on the street. Rather have 2 bikes one for off road and one for the street. Specially if you plan to commute with the bike charging the battery every day or every second seems not really practical.

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I find it hard to believe a 1000 mah batt would run for more than 1hr.

I would suggest looking into LED bulbs front and rear. As long as you don't ride at night LEDs are good enough to be seen and your 45w stator would have no problem keeping up.

BTW I've heard federal law requires the headlight to be High/Low beam with a high beam indicator light. Oh yea, and a horn.

Good news, according to this you don't need turn signals in Maryland.

http://www.msf-usa.org/downloads/EquipmentChart2008-MSFlogo.pdf

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Good stuff Mikey, thanks for the tips. Its actually a 10,000mAh. I do ride at night but the goal here is to trail hop legally. Probably wouldnt go more than 50mi, and the lights wouldnt be on full time. What do you think about that ac/dc converter?

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Sorry I don't have a clue how to go about charging a battery with the bike. Mine is just a RC car battery(no stator power) and all LED's. The most I've ridden with the lights on is a couple hours. Then charge the battery at home.

My LED headlight(35w equivilent) is worthless at night.

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I've gone to LEDs for everything on my WR250Z, and the stock 35W lighting coil handles things just fine...even for limited night riding. What are you running for a lighting coil on your YZ? Electrosport aftermarket, WR OEM, or something else? On my son's WR250F, we went with the electrosport 45W unit as we had to use a YZ crank for the stroker kit we installed. Again, with LED bead, tail and turn signals, things work pretty well.

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Exactly that, an Electrosport 45w, two yellow leads from the stator. Bird, if you could spill the beans, I'd be forever indebted to you. :bonk:

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Convert everything that you can to LED to conserve power. When the power comes from the stator run it through a regulator and a rectifier and to the battery. Then run all of your lights positive and negative to the battery without grounding any of the lights to the frame. This will allow you to run DC to the lights without having to float the ground. If you need more info search my threads Newfoundlander or drop me a line.

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A quick tip on LEDs.

They are + and - sensitive. In other words IF they don't light, just reverse the + and -.

Incandescents don't care so I had to run my whole kit reversed(green is now + and red is -)no big deal. Not trying to confuse you, just something you should know.

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Great info guys, thanks, I'll search those posts when I get some time to sit down and read. In the meantime, what do you think about replacing the AC regulator on my BD kit to this Trail Tech adjustable? http://trailtech.net/regulator.html#6509 I don't know how much faith I have in the "circuit conditioning" to avoid dimming, but it looks like they definitely made an AC regulator that can fry lights faster, albeit brighter.

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Ideas on how to make this brake caliper/fork look a little less like it's on life support? The brake line, speedo, and brake light switch all come out of the same spot. Oversized guard? LifeSupportFork.jpg

Edited by HorakCM
Oops. Pic was sideways. Probably still is.

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My brake light switch is on the master cylinder. I'm sure you could move that one of yours up there.

You don't need THAT many zip ties. It doesn't look like your forks could move without hitting them the way it is.

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I've always done brake light switches off the master as well. Much less suseptible to damage up there than on the caliper. Might be an issue with some handguard options though.

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