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Rekluse zStart Pro clutch install report

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Well, it's been ages since I have wanted one, so yesterday I bit the bullet and went and bought myself a Rekluse zStart Pro clutch. I did the install on my 2010 TE450 myself which didn't go quite as easily and smoothly as I would have liked, but it seems to be working so I am happy about that.

As far as the install goes, the instructions are pretty good, but the section relating to putting a spring on the Clutch Throw Out Assembly was ambiguous at best. It covers the '06-'07 450/510 models but not other models. There is one comment under the '06-'07 450/510 models section that says all other models do not require a thick spacer. The next step then related only to '08 450/510 models - to put the return spring carrier on top of the thrust washer - there are no instructions for other models regarding the "return spring carrier" yet in the next step it says to place the C150 spring over the Spring Carrier. So installed the spring carrier without a washer and hoped that would do the trick. The rest of the install went well, though I did need to install the thickest Pressure Plate in order to get my install gap correct, so I think I will need to invest in some new friction plates in the not too distant future. Cracking the hub nut was easy enough with just a breaker bar and some good elbow grease, so don't think you need a rattle gun and compressor.

Once I put it all back together I discovered I have no "feel" on the clutch lever at all - it is just hanging loosely. Now, I did stuff up during the install and pulled the clutch lever when the entire clutch assembly was removed - so that probably has something to do with it. It's annoying as hell, so if anyone can suggest how to fix that I would appreciate it. I fired her up and slid it into first gear - no problem at all without the clutch and no lurching forward, crunches, etc. AWESOME! Gently accelerated and the bike pulled away as expected. Changing up a gear without the clutch is something I do anyway so I had no trouble with that, but changing down without a the clutch requires a bit of force and it doesn't feel too sweet. After doing the "burn in" process I checked the install gaps again and all was good.

So today was the big test taking the bike out on the dirt. While the engine was still coming up to temp I didn't really notice anything when just idling in gear while stationary. But once the bike was up to temp there was a slight pull - so I think I need to check my install gap again. The rest of the riding went fine, with the clutch engagement pretty much perfect in my opinion. One of the first things I noticed is that I have a bad habit of locking up the rear break which normally stalls the engine, but with the Rekluse that doesn't happen anymore. When I tested the bike out on some snotty hills I noticed that I still lose control and have to stop (although I can get further up the hills before that happens) but the biggest bonus is that getting going again could not be easier! I managed to get back on track pretty quick and easy and without killing myself wrestling the bike. So that on its own has almost made the clutch worth the money IMO. In the single track, life was a lot easier too with me not having to concentrate on feathering the clutch and work the gears nearly as much - was more of a point and squirt things, so I am looking forward to improving my riding position now that I am not being distracted.

I can see a left hand rear brake i the not too distant future as I can clearly ride without the manual clutch (as that's all I can do right now) and I really like the idea of the hand brake like the old mountain biking days. It might help with my problem of locking up the rear too - who knows?

Hope this report helps someone - if you have been on the fence about getting one of these clutches I would say it's a good buy. I can already tell that my riding (both enjoyment and technique) is going to improve a lot with the clutch. Installation is not nearly as scary as it sounds (if you are not mechanically inclined like me).

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Many will use a small mt bike lever in addition to the clutch level to still have both functions available on the left side.

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Are you saying replace the rear brake pedal all together for a hand brake , removing the clutch lever ?

Rekluse sell 2 different LHRB kits - the cheaper one replaces the pedal brake altogether, and the other is a dual-brake which taps into the top of the rear brake master cylinder reservoir which lets you use the hand or the foot brake.

I have chatted a couple of people who own rekluse + LHRB combo's and they have all said that one they went with the hand brake they stopped using the foot pretty much altogether. So I am tempted to go the dedicated brake rather than the dual system (save a bit of money and complexity)

As far as losing the manual hand clutch altogether is concerned, I must admit to still having major reservations with this one. I am thinking of trying to arrange the levers so that I can keep the manual clutch when its needed and the LHRB for most f the time.

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As far as losing the manual hand clutch altogether is concerned, I must admit to still having major reservations with this one. I am thinking of trying to arrange the levers so that I can keep the manual clutch when its needed and the LHRB for most f the time.

... Maybe a pin on the clutch to press to engage the rear brake function of the clutch lever......

Maybe a cable that runs to your foot brake engaged by a simple push of a button on your clutch...

Edited by Rearwheelin

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Having a hydraulic clutch makes keeping the brake and clutch on the bars a challenging task. Each requires its own reservoir and cylinder.Would like to find a remote pull type cyclinder so a cable lever could be used up top.

I recently installed a Z-start Pro set on my 2006 TE450 and so far really like it. I have never driven a Rekluse equipped bike though have ridden with others that had them.

One manuever I can now do with confidence in the driveway is from a stand still, feet on ground, pull back and pop the throttle and pop up the front wheel to stand it straight up and then can pivot it around 180. This seems really easy to do now. A handy thing sometimes on tight trails. With the regular clutch I have always found this a risky move as I would usually pull in the clutch too soon as the bike went up and changed my angle to the bars/lever, especially standing on uneven loose ground. The hydraulic clutch has such a narrow range of engagement and light feel I find it difficult for such a manuever, easier with a cable clutch bike, super easy with an auto-clutch. For an occasional trail rider person, this is going to be nice.

Edited by K7MDL

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