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How to cut break pads?

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I'm wanting to reduce the effectiveness on my rear breaks to reduce lock-ups. 1/4" groove cut in them with the angle grinder. Is this the way to do it? Any particular direction or area of the pad I should remove?

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You want to reduce the effectiveness of the brakes :bonk:

Personally, I would work on controlling the pressure I applied to the front and rear brakes.

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I got this tip from a pro

let me guess small bore ktm 2 stroke? I think they put 450 4 stroke brake master/caliper on them, those things have way too powerful brakes, the difference between modulating and lockup is about 1mm of travel, I dont care how good you are, there's not much there to work with

easiest way is use a hack saw, and cut a line from top to bottom straight down the middle

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This may sound dumb, but a light coat of grease on the pad. Drag them so they heat way up...they'll heat glaze. It will feel like massive brake fade, but they won't lock up. I can't believe I just suggested that:bonk:

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I got this tip from a pro

let me guess small bore ktm 2 stroke? I think they put 450 4 stroke brake master/caliper on them, those things have way too powerful brakes, the difference between modulating and lockup is about 1mm of travel, I dont care how good you are, there's not much there to work with

easiest way is use a hack saw, and cut a line from top to bottom straight down the middle

Yea it's the KTM200 rear giving me problems. I may try the air thing first. Never heard of that but it makes sense. I can allways bleed it on the trail.

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Dont do it with any kind of a grinder. Just in case there is any asbestos in the pads, you'll be breathing it in. I used to use a hack saw with a little water on race car pads for no dust. It worked fine....

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Yea it's the KTM200 rear giving me problems. I may try the air thing first. Never heard of that but it makes sense. I can allways bleed it on the trail.

I figured it was that bike, they are known for it, just cut a slic top to bottom very easy and pads are cheap

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You want to reduce the effectiveness of the brakes :bonk:

Personally, I would work on controlling the pressure I applied to the front and rear brakes.

What he said.

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It's such any easy fix there is no reason to have to deal with it

After the mod they will work more like the big bikes, without the mod they take damn near half the pressure of my other bikes

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This may sound dumb, but a light coat of grease on the pad. Drag them so they heat way up...they'll heat glaze. It will feel like massive brake fade, but they won't lock up. I can't believe I just suggested that:bonk:

haha, i know, sounds logical?

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I mostly use the rear brake to initiate a slide.

me too.... like almost always.. but if you ride in the hills you will find a time or too that you are standing on a technical down hill and trying to modulate the rear brake.. which is already damn near impossible because u cant feel the pedal through the boot and then your standing making it that much more tricky. I think i end up just "fanning" them, full on then full off when i feel the slide...

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me too.... like almost always.. but if you ride in the hills you will find a time or too that you are standing on a technical down hill and trying to modulate the rear brake.. which is already damn near impossible because u cant feel the pedal through the boot and then your standing making it that much more tricky. I think i end up just "fanning" them, full on then full off when i feel the slide...

Standing? What is this you speak of? Just kidding...but that is something I have been really working at is standing more and getting comfy doing it.

Another question, what are these things you call hills?

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