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XR650 kickstarter locked at TDC?

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I just attempted to adjust the valves on my 2002 XR650. I followed all the procedures in the Clymer manual, and did my best to adjust them to the middle of the range (.006 Intake and .008 Exhaust). Changed the oil, filter, and spark plug. One gallon of brand new 91 octane gas in the tank. It's always been cold blooded, but now when I get the kickstand up to the top and start to feel resistance, I can't even kick it over. It's almost like the engine is seized. Eventually when I put weight on the kickstarter it does go through the full stroke, so the engine's not seized, but I can't kick it over to start it...any wisdom?

Thanks,

Ladge

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Don't know but chances are you've possibly done it wrong,,either that or the Camchains kinked and jamming,What is the bike a 650L or a 650R,??,Start over and do the tappet gaps again,,hopefully nothings got bent or broken in there with the force you used to get the thing to kick over.,You may have to remove the Tappet cover to work out Cam orientation and TDC,,I know of no other way of figuring that out once you've got the "jiggle or up/down movement of the tappets">>(the movement which should be there when the engines at TDC of the compression stroke and when you do the gaps),, out of sync..

Suppose if you're lucky you may be able to see the Cams orientation through the Tappet inspection caps on top of the engine with a light and small extendable type mirror,,Unsure on that,,check it out.,All the Cam lobes need to be facing down,,the T mark needs to be lined up in its slot down by the Flywheel and the Piston needs to be at the top of the bore to adjust the gaps correctly.,Those three in unison (in tandem) are when you do gaps.,,,and anti-clockwise rotation of the flywheel..,

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I assume u have an r (kickstart) pull the plug out and kick it if it is fine something is up with the decomp system u use standard or metric feelers

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Yes, it's an XR650R. So you think if I adjusted the valves too far out of spec. they would cause the kickstarter to bind at the top of it's stroke? I can kick it around until I start to feel resistance at the top (which is how I usually start it)...then it just stops and I have to stand on it until it grudgingly pushes down. I followed the Clymer shop manual procedure closely. The tappets (rocker arms?) were able to be jiggled just a bit, which tells me I was on the right track.

I'll redo the valve adjustment tomorrow, hopefully I just misadjusted the clearances-it's very difficult to get the feeler gauge in to where I can feel the drag.

Thanks to both of you guys for helping me out-I'll keep ya posted.

Cheers!

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sounds like the decomp is out of adjustment.

Easy to find tdc on comp stroke- pull the adjustment caps and watch the valves, as soon as the intakes close watch the flywheel and look for the "T" to come up to the mark- there ya go

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did you have to move the adjusters much? They are usually pretty close so mostly checking is in order. If you had to move them a ton, you must have done wrong, if they needed very little, you likely did alright. I think it would be hard to get them tight enough to smack pistons.

Follow the manual, and pay attention to details you will do fine. I think something else is going on, maybe a valve was too tight before and now you have full compression again, or the decomp is not working.

double check clearance and try to start it afterward.

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I assume u have an r (kickstart) pull the plug out and kick it if it is fine something is up with the decomp system u use standard or metric feelers

This method will tell you the problem. Pull the plug like bronnco said.

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Sounds like the cam is out of time and the piston is coming into contact with the valves. I would check the cam timing before any more attempts at starting the engine. There may already be bent valves as a result of trying to start it.

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My newly aquired XR650R did this too after I adjusted the valves the first time. Turns out it actually had compression after the valves were adjusted properly and all I had to do was pull the compression release to get it past TDC and it kicks right up and runs like a champ. I've since learned that that's the trick.

You see, when I got the bike the thing kicked over super easily like it didn't have much compression. When I adjusted the valves, I found the intake valves to be very tight. I don't think they were closing all the way, allowing air by. Once they were in spec, it had tons of compression and froze at TDC. Scared the shit out of me the first time.

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I was going to say the same thing. Ladge has mentioned nothing of pulling the decomp lever. Sounds like he has compression for the first time!

I can jump on my kickstarter (230 lbs) and it won't kick through TDC w/o the decomp.

So what you want to do is kick it until it stops like you have it. Let the starter back to the top.

Pull the decomp, kick it just a tiny but further - ~1".

Bring the kickstarter back to the top and give full, steady kick to the bottom. Should fire right up.

Edited by basalt

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