Starting trouble. now getting smoke on idle :(

[troy591]

*update* 1/2: Got it to start and idle, wasnt able to use the magic button because i need to charge the battery. One thing i did notice tho was smoke coming out of the exhaust when you'd open the throttle. looked mostly white to... anyone have any ideas. i'm thinking maybe rings? I used to get a little bit on the decel before letting the bike sit but this is more then that. hopefully i can get a compression check by the end of the week.

So before I start getting flamed I have searched far and wide on here, asked multiple other Ktm owners and read over the manual. The bike is a 05 450 exc.

So here's the issue. I had clutch trouble so I didn't ride my bike for a good year. Decided it was time to get my act together get my bike up ad running. Got the clutch working so all is well there. Now my trouble it getting the bike started. I rebuilt the carb as well as changed the plug and it started just fine. Then I decided that I wanted to adjust the valves so I've done that. Now my trouble is I can't get the bike to start and idle. It will start if I push start it but I can't get it to kick over. Also once it's started it starts to bog down like it running to rich. So I'm lost as to what could be the issue. Possibly something minute I'm over looking? The valves are now all within spec but they really weren't far off spec. So now I'm just looking for any ideas or little tricks that I haven't heard of before I go and pay someone ungodly amounts to figure it out.

Any help would be appreciated, and I'll keep hovering over the forum to try and come up with a similar situation.

Edited January 2, 2012 by troy591
started, now smoking.

[shelbyguy]

you check air/fuel screw?

you sure you got all orifices cleared out?

[troy591]

I'm going to double check today to make sure nothing random some how got in there but I know it was good last week when I rebuilt it. Air/fuel is set for the elevation, I'll fool around with it but I don't see how that would make it so impossible to start the bike

[ktm450guy]

If it ran fine before you started the work on it just go over everything you did and triple check everything.It could be a number of things.

[troy591]

updated.

[Burnrider]

Engine hours/ miles are a good indicator of piston/ring/ valve health. You can run them a long time at low trail speeds. I ran about 500 hrs / 8000 miles before I did the topend. I lost the 1-5 kick cold start capability, the idle at 1600 rpms got rough, and the bottom end power was really slow.

For stock components I think 400 hrs / 6000 miles would have been better.

The KW valves only need adjusting once a year. The front end lofts nicely, and I can get a 1-2 kick start out of it in freezing weather (e-start all day after that).

Hard to kickstart issues are common with loose exhaust valves which disable your auto-decompressor. Is the bike hard to start (multiple kicks), or hard to start (2 AM drunk standing on the shovelhead kickstarter in the dark)?

[Ud_Luz]

(2 AM drunk standing on the shovelhead kickstarter in the dark)?

Funny you mention this. I had a heck of a time starting my 1972 Superglide after a number of hours at the bar. ?

[troy591]

Hard to kickstart issues are common with loose exhaust valves which disable your auto-decompressor. Is the bike hard to start (multiple kicks), or hard to start (2 AM drunk standing on the shovelhead kickstarter in the dark)?

Mutiple kick, then it idles fairly well... its noisey but arent all ktms ? Then starts to dump smoke. once i get a compression test im sure thatll give me a better idea. I have about 175 hours on the bike right now thats y im kind of surprised all this is happening but who knows... shame on me for letting it sit right :/

[Burnrider]

Get the compression test and go from there.

As a side note for other issues:

Riding with a lot of trail guys on older bikes, one of the changes that reduce a metallic clank on older bikes is a new auto cam chain tensioner (ACCT). Better yet, install a manual cam chain tensioner (MCCT).

Remove the stock ACCT, and press on the flat rivet surface with some extension on the ratchet bar. If you can feel slack as it's pressed in, replace it. The detente pin or the pawl (or both) are worn. On Suzuki DRZ's these were a fatal part commonly replaced with a MCCT.

The MCCT installs w/ two bolts and and adjusts by turning the well oiled clean bolt slowly til you feel resistance against the internal plastic bar. At this point rotate another 1/2 turn and cinch the locknut.

Troy, if you want a copy of my maintenance records PM me your email. You need Excel for access. With 10K on the bike, it frames preventive maintenance over 7 yrs. Heat, wear and dirt causes wear- even for C level riders.