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primary Nut tight....green loctite okay?

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While installing my kickstart kit I checked on my primary nut and it is tight. At this point I can either remove it with air impact and then try to retighten it with red loctite. ( more difficult due to holding the gears steady but if thats what it takes I will make it happen) OR can i just use that green locktite that designed to go onto bolts after assembly, (it then seeps into threads)??? Is the green stuff to weak for this project?

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I use green (wicking) when I don't want to disturb a tight nut,works great if you dry the nut/threads before applying.

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Anaerobic thread locker or retainint compounds color manufacture dependant.. So unless your refer to the brand name AND color, it’s not great info. And even then, many different products in the same brand will have the same color.

Loctite “RED in color” Product # 271 is a high strength thread locker and works for this application

Loctite “Green in color” Product # R680 Retaining Compound is a high strength, medium viscosity, anaerobic adhesive for slip fit assemblies. And works well for this application.. But heat will be needed to remove without damage.

Loctite “Green in color ” ” Product # 638 is a maximum strength retaining compound for use where high dynamic force or cyclic loading is expected. Works well in this application. But heat will be needed to remove without damage.

Loctite “Green in Color” Product # 290 is a low viscosity wicking grade, green threadlocking liquid that wicks along the threads of pre-assembled fasteners to secure them in place. But heat will be needed to remove without damage.

Would only use wicking grade on this application if I was positive the fastener was properly tightened, which would not include it being tightened by the OEM, or an outside shop.

Edited by E.Marquez
Mis-read post on which application to be used for.

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It is permatex loctite green threadlocker 290. Is this stuff okay then if its torqued tight?. Bolt has been tight for over 6 years with no loctite.

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It is permatex loctite green threadlocker 290. Is this stuff okay then if its torqued tight?. Bolt has been tight for over 6 years with no loctite.

You have two different brands mentioned there.. loctite and Permitex in this case, boith companys named there like product by the same number..

If you have Loctite brand Pn 290 wicking medium to high strength

Or

Permatex Penetrating Grade Threadlocker GREEN a medium strength anaerobic threadlocking material.

either should be fine as long as the nut is properly torqued.

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Lets just assume for arguments sake that you do know the nut is torqued (tight).

Then why not just back it off and re-torque using the same method?

Point is..you dont really know until youve done it correctly. Its such a small task to do that could have serious consequences.

6yrs or 6 days. I dont believe it makes any difference. Its something that should be done.

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Am I missing something here? Is this thread about a known issue with the DRZ where the primary nut is known to not be tightened correctly from the factory or something? Because in 40 years of riding I've never had one come loose that had been installed at the factory, on any bike.

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Am I missing something here? Is this thread about a known issue with the DRZ where the primary nut is known to not be tightened correctly from the factory or something? Because in 40 years of riding I've never had one come loose that had been installed at the factory, on any bike.

Yes it is, yes you have missed it, yes it happens for a know issue on this bike, and others. Often? Often enough.

Do a search, read for your self. :smirk:

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Am I missing something here? Is this thread about a known issue with the DRZ where the primary nut is known to not be tightened correctly from the factory or something? Because in 40 years of riding I've never had one come loose that had been installed at the factory, on any bike.

Yep..You missed the boat here.

1)Primary nut

2)Balancer nut

3)Countershaft nut

4)Stator bolts

&

5)Starter clutch bolts

:smirk:

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Chokey - In 51 years of riding I also have not had a primary nut come loose. But I have had clutch nuts and countershaft nuts come loose often enough that I check on any motorcycle I buy new or used. More specific to Suzuki, the primary nut has a history of coming loose starting back with the DR350. In addition to adding Loctite and retightening the primary nut, the torque value has been upgraded from 80 to 100 ft lb.

Correction, I have had a primary nut (bolt actually) come loose. Fairly common with the 75 Honda CB400F. When it happens it drills a hole in the primary cover and oils your foot.

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Yep..You missed the boat here.

1)Primary nut

2)Balancer nut

3)Countershaft nut

4)Stator bolts

&

5)Starter clutch bolts

:smirk:

So what you're saying is, Suzuki just put the bolts on tight enough to hold the parts on the bike for shipping, and once purchased it's up to you to dis-assemble everything and put the bike together right...:bonk:

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So what you're saying is, Suzuki just put the bolts on tight enough to hold the parts on the bike for shipping, and once purchased it's up to you to dis-assemble everything and put the bike together right...:bonk:

:smirk:

"Lucky" would be more appropiate..

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Thanks for replies. Just to play it safe I used the red high strength loctite. I took the nut off and re torqued it to 101 ft lbs. It was torqued on there good and tight since 2004 but now its got the high strength loctite to hold it on as well.

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Thanks for replies. Just to play it safe I used the red high strength loctite. I took the nut off and re torqued it to 101 ft lbs. It was torqued on there good and tight since 2004 but now its got the high strength loctite to hold it on as well.

:smirk: And your one of the large% that likely did not need to perform this reliability fix.. The hard part is, you don’t know until you do it.. So a few minutes of work, means you will not be the small % that has that nut loosen and destroy a motor.

Same ideal behind counter balancer nut, starter gear fasteners, starter screws. Most bikes will run the life of the motor and never have an issue, some will.. and as it’s easily checked and prevented, so why not.

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checked mine last night and it was nice and loose. Glad I saw this thread to remind me. I didn't tq it down and I didn't loctite it as I still need to pull it all off and check the seal and a few other things. I just wanted to check it out before I went to bed (had already performed a brake job on my jeep before that and my hands were getting numb lol).

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My motivation was finding the same primary nut hand loose on my ktm 400exc about a month ago. Thats when i thought i better check the drz and figured while im in there i would do the kick start kit upgrade.

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checked mine last night and it was nice and loose. Glad I saw this thread to remind me. I didn't tq it down and I didn't loctite it as I still need to pull it all off and check the seal and a few other things. I just wanted to check it out before I went to bed (had already performed a brake job on my jeep before that and my hands were getting numb lol).

Seal? Sounds like your referencing the Counter shaft nut (sometimes referred to as the “primary” shaft, but not on this motor, and not in this thread)

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