Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

This is sad....

Recommended Posts

emabarasing also,but I cannot get my gas cap off my 10 fe450. ***! It has become gradually harder and now it wont budge. This could be a big problem on the trail at a gas stop. any suggestions? is the alloy berg one good? I assume the ktm is the same with the push in the middle then quarter turn. I know i,m getting old but jeesh. I can still open a jar of pickles......or a beer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an '11 FE570S and had the same problem. When I finally got the cap off I removed the three screws from the bottom of the cap and removed the 3 tabs (they come out as one) and put it back together. Voila ! No more problems!

Enjoy !!

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take the gas cap apart and carefully cut two of the three locking prongs off. Reassemble with the remaining prong under where you push down on the button. Worked for me and it still locks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this nesesary? I can now say I spent half an hour working on....A GAS CAP! talk about over engeneering a problem that doesnt exist.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I periodically clean the cap and apply a thin layer of grease to the tank rim. Works very easily when lubbed up.

Also, you can push down where the vent hose attaches rather than on the offset button. This makes it much easier to push straight down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I sprayed the internals of the cap with silicon spray. Now works like a charm again :smirk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I periodically clean the cap and apply a thin layer of grease to the tank rim. Works very easily when lubbed up.

Also, you can push down where the vent hose attaches rather than on the offset button. This makes it much easier to push straight down.

That's what I do too, I have the billet cap and it's also tough to get off...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Remove cap and snip off the three tabs with a side cutter, it will take all of twenty seconds, I've done it on all of my KTK's since that cap came out and have never had an issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit of 2 stroke oil on the o ring worked perfect. Somedays the obvious eludes me. :bonk:

Edited by greenshovel0014

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another "tab remover" here. Pulled the check ball and bored out the vent hole a bit while under the hood of the cap too. The reason for that is the tank can pressurize if the gas gets real hot and starts boiling during slow riding. Lined the bottom of the tank with reflective tape, so far no problems with boiling gas.

Edited by Duken4evr

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had the same problem on my 2011 FE570 with both the stock and billet caps. The first time I went to the gas station to fill my bike, I could not remove the billet cap. I had to return home, and with the help of an oil filter wrench - remove the cap. My billet cap is worse than the stock cap for some reason. I removed two of the three tabs on the billet cap and it is still difficult to remove. Most of the time I loosen the cap before riding to the station and then just "lock" it after filing up. I am going to try to lubricate the cap to make it work better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also still experience a bit of stickiness with my tabless stock cap, but not enough to make it overly difficult to get off. A very light touch of lube makes it smooth. Seems the rubber grommet thing on the cap is quite grippy.

Regarding the check ball in the cap, the concern there is having pressure buildup is the plastic gas tank is the tank is not designed to be a pressure vessel. Some guys on the unoffiial 'Berg board run by Gunnison Motorsports (a great resource by the way) have reported fuel leaks at the pump as a result. I have not experienced boiling gas to date, but then again, there is probably enough criss crossing layers of DEI reflective heat tape on the bottom of my bike's tank to survive re-entry from orbit :bonk: The heat tape trick is a good inexpensive mod. 60 hours of run time later, it is showing no signs of coming off too.

This mod is only really needed if you rock crawl or ride really techical slow stuff at times. If you see the need to line the bottom of your tank with tape, you would also want a KTM fan kit on your bike too. Change out the 100C KTM fan switch (which is a carryover from the older bikes, which have weak stator output) for a 95/90C Altrom Imports ATM 1435033 fan switch from NAPA. The fan runs a lot more but the 211W 'Berg stator and battery do not care, bike never gets hot, no matter what you do. I have a Trail Tech temp gauge on mine and felt compelled to shut my bike down a few times as it broke 240F (water coming off the head). Since adding the lower temp switch, I have never had to shut it down. 225F is about has high as it goes now no matter what kind of hell I put her through. The fan comes on earlier and stays on. The switch threads right in to the rad and fits right on the stock wiring too. Mimimal coolant loss if you are quick and leave the cap on, takes all of a minute to do. Highly recommended!

switch.jpg

Edited by Duken4evr
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×