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Just Got The Bike - Bronze Shavings on Oil Filter

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Two days ago I bought a 2006 CRF250R from a dealer. It was a tech's bike there and has an Athena 290 BB kit and Kibble White Valves. They said he only had like 6hrs on it. I actually talked with him today to confirm everything about the bike, he is no longer with the dealer and said it should be in great shape.

I rode a couple hours yesterday and a little today, checked fluids before riding, came home and changed engine and tranny oil. Engine oil filter had a bunch of bronze shavings, none in the waste oil and the tranny oil was fine.

From what I can find on here this is the crank. I wanted to check and see if there is any feedback on here in terms of the recent mods and the cause of the flakes. If I can do the crank replacement myself, I have am fairly mechanically inclined, meticulous and have done some minor work on my quad and boat but never split a case or pulled a top end.

Please Advise.

Tom

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Its the crank. Id go back to the dealer and ask them to help pay for this. You didnt happen to change the oil and filter before your first ride did you? Sound like the dealer flat out lied to you.

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I didn't. It was sold as is so I think they just screwed me. Last time I do business with Gainsville Motorsports in Georgia. What kind of money am I looking at if I have a shop do it. I just wanted a reliable bike, I would have paid more.

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if a shop does the crank you could speen 700 with ease....crank jobs from a stealer ship aint cheap.

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How hard is the job 1-10. I understand this is a high maintenance bike, it's winter, Ive got time, tools and access to experts if I need them. Is the bottom end to big to bite off? I was just thinking about getting to learn her slowly, valves, top end, etc. This is a little intimidating.

Anything else I should do while I am in there? I was looking at the hotrod kit. I am planning on reading this forum a lot and getting a FSM.

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I would a say its a 7-8 / 10.

The crank itself is the easy part.

Toughest part for me was the holding all the gearbox together while trying to fit the cases. Make sure you go through all the gears with the engine on the bench. Get an friend to help with this for sure.

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moste time a do a cranck rebuld i let the transmision in place . remove head and cilinder and alt.cover and flywheel, and right engine cover . remove right crancksprocket bolt . if you dond,t need do not remove the clutch . lay the engine on the right site and remove the crankcase bolts on the left site . when you pull of the left case make sure the transm. keep in place .one,s the case removed take a elastik coard and puth it over the outsite of the transm. axcle,s and so over the clutch so the gears cant come of the axcle,s .

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The crank really isn't that difficult to replace. I'd rate it as a 6. Getting the engine out of the frame onto the bench is more time consuming.

As for gaskets you will need:

Left and right side cover

center case

cyl base

cyl head

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Thanks for all the input, I think I am going to pass on this one. The shop I bought it from is going to work with me and do it for 3hrs labor and price match my online parts choices. I figure if I ask 10 people I will get 10 different answers on this next question, most reliable crank kit for the Athena Big Bore?

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