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YZ/WR 300 build w/pics

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Started with some polishing of the frame and swingarm. The swingarm and linkage are off of an '09 YZ450F. The shock is new and valved up for me and the bike (courtesy of David Behrend @ Fast Bike Industries - www.fastbikeindustries.com). The 250F shock is the same i2i length and stroke.

300 cylinder is due back tomorrow or Wednesday from Eric Gorr. Broad powerband with pump gas.

The motor already has the WR gears in it. Probably going to run it at 14/48 gearing. Anyone know what the top speed is with that gearing, WR 3-4-5, and the 300 kit?

Re-lacing the rear wheel to the '09 rear hub here this week, and figuring out some front fork SNAFU. Keeping my eyes out for replacement '06+ forks and/or cheap replacement internals for these.

Other parts worth mentioning:

- Rekluse Z-start pro, set up low/fast w/LHRB setup

- '08 CRF front brake system, and oversize front rotor on the way soon

- IMS 3-gallon desert tank

- SDG tall seat

- Scotts w/submount

- TGT subtank handlebars (haven't been riding them hooked up lately though)

- Rekluse E-axle set -2mm

- FMF Fatty pipe and some sorta FMF silencer

- ODI lock-on grips

Hopefully, the bike will be together and running by Friday and going to be entering its first desert race this weekend.

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I should specify that the Ohlins TTX is a fit for the 2-stroke ONLY with the 4-stroke swingarm. The yoke cavity is longer on the 4-stroke arms, and the lower rear corner of the spring/spring seat will hit the 2-stroke swingarm and prevent the shock from fitting up.

For those interested, the shock and the swingarm and the hub all shave some serious weight off the 2-stroke components. Now that I'm thinking about it again, I may have to weigh these things just to see what the total change is with the parts swap.

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looking good man!!!!!!! Keep up the good work!:smirk:

Keep me posted:thumbsup:

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Thanks.

Oh, and I'm open to suggestions on how to clean out the inside of the pipe for this thing. I've tried soaking it in old gasoline in the past and letting it sit for a while, which got some of the crap out of there, but not what I'd call "clean". The blown crank seal has left a ton of spooge in there, and I'm trying to get everything as flossy as possible in the exhaust, carb, ignition and motor to get the jetting dialed quickly and accurately.

Gas worked OK to clean it. M.E.K. I've seen suggested before. I'm personally wondering about leaving Coca Cola in there to break the stuff down. I've seen that work absolute wonders on cleaning bathtubs before without any agitation at all.

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Try cooking the pipe in a oven at 300-400F. I did this trying to bake on some high temperature paint and realized it cooked it out pretty good. BTW, I run a weld and heat treat facility and have furnaces of all sizes.

Craigus

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Interesting........so is this safe to cook in a kitchen oven? Gonna have to try to sneak that one by the girlfriend..

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Interesting........so is this safe to cook in a kitchen oven? Gonna have to try to sneak that one by the girlfriend..

Not unless you want to make your house smell like 2t exhaust...

try the Gas grill (outside) instead.. or oven cheaner

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300 kit arrived today and install was a breeze, except for my usual cussing at piston circlips. The new piston he has with the oil ports looks like a work of art. Really wish I took a picture of it before I threw it in.

Got the timing set right, and all the powervalve joints lubricated up. Next up, Rekluse rebuild and replace crank seal then back into the frame it goes.

While I still have the motor out of the frame, anyone have good techniques for polishing up the engine cases to look a little nicer? Steel wool work on these as well? This nice bright and clean cylinder and head makes the rest of the engine look like a bag of ass.

Going to try soaking the inside of the pipe in M.E.K., and if that doesn't work, brief soaks in Coca Cola. If I have to I'll try bringing it to a local heat treater.

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I took a plumbers torch and heated mine up until it caught fire. It burned all the spooge into a flaky,easy to remove dust. Just shook it out and prepacked it.

Luke

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Use a propane fish cooker burner & just cook the crap out of the pipe. You can also stick a propane torch in the big end and get it going and it should start burning and that stuff will cook off and you will just have a little ash left. It might take awhile.

I just use a real fine scotch brite pad & then metal polish to clean up cases & frames & stuff. Works like a champ.

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I took a plumbers torch and heated mine up until it caught fire. It burned all the spooge into a flaky,easy to remove dust. Just shook it out and prepacked it.

Luke

You can use an Oxy -Accetelene torch to burn it out.

Start at the big end and use a real low flame to get the carbon burning, then turn the accetelene off and blow the oxegen into the pipe.

The carbon will burn all the way through the inside of the pipe. You will see the pipe get red as it burns along the length of the pipe.

CAUTION, be in a very well venterlated area as there will be heaps of smoke.

The inside of your pipe will be spotless after this but any paint will be burnt off.

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In the past I used a jar full of ball bearings poured into the pipe and seal the ends with rubber bunges with some rigorous shaking. Seemed to do the trick and no noxious fumes.

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I don't know how much build up you have in your pipe but mine was so thick is was hard like a rock. I tried all the heating/torch suggestions and it did minimal at best. The only thing that I found to work to remove every thing was alumabrite. CLICK HERE This stuff is awesome. Just submerge your pipe in this for a day or so and it will come out spotless. The stuff is amazing, the inside of my pipe was like new after this. I have done this twice.

MAX!!!

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Sounds good to me. Where can I get it locally? The website doesn't seem to say much about dealer networks.

Yeah I'm not sure my living situation would permit using a torch to turn my 2-stroke pipe into a flamethrower, as appealing as that does sound. I'm liking the chemical/media approach.

Tried soaking the insides in MEK and Coca Cola for about a half hour each last night (rinsing after each). Got some of the stuff out, but still can't see metal inside of there.

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Nevermind, found a local dealer, stuff is expensive! $30 for a 16oz bottle.

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I have also used toilet cleaner. Fill the pipe and leave it for 24-48 hours. Cleans it pretty good, watch out it is costic.

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Wondered about both of those. Also wonder if paint stripper like Aircraft Remover would work, perhaps with some media and agitation in there.

I've also thought the name "Aircraft Remover" is kinda funny. When I think of something that removes aircraft, I think of something like a Surface-to-Air missile, not a tin can.

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