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slave cylinder bracket for a Magura clutch?

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This weekend we tried to install a Magura hydraulic clutch onto my 2008 WR250F. The slave cylinder is too far away to get any slack in it per specs. We removed the bushing and ground down the bracket quite a bit already, which got it closer, but not close enough.

Does anyone carry a bracket that would work? It needs to move about 3/4" from the stock bracket position.

What have other people done to get it to work?

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If it's for the WR, it sound like it was mislabeled or packaged wrong. I just bought a set of V-Force reeds that were mislabeled. Can you post pics?

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I'm interested to see where this goes as I just bought one for my 2008 WR250F, it's on its way in the mail.

One curious thing though, the model you listed is the "Gen II". The one I ordered is the "Gen III", P/N 0120683. Don't know where this will leave me - I think it's a redesigned master cylinder but same slave. Post back what happens with yours, and I will too once I get mine (I may not be installing it for a few months though, but I'll check the brackets out) Other thing is, the "Gen III" stuff isn't listed anywhere, the guy at Magura gave me the P/N, and it is in their catalogue: http://www.powersports.magura.com/fileadmin/user_upload/magura_upload/downloads/Katalog/MAGURA_Catalogue_Powersports_2012_UK_screen.pdf?PHPSESSID=0d6d7e5d02b996ba3a3d441fd5b87f8d

But your P/N is in there too... I'm really hoping the right thing is on its way...

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So here is a picture

6631973145_9515cee98a.jpg

I called Magura and the part appears to be correct and it should fit the WR.

I think the problem might be with the push rod (the arm that the clutch rod connects to on the bike). When I look at mine compared to a 2006 yz250f (which should be the same) the angle it sits at when it is in "neutral" position is very different. The one on the yz is rotated closer to the bracket by about 15 degrees {guess}. If mine was rotated the same way the distance to the slave cylinder would be about right.

Is there any way to set the rotation of that piece so the connection is closer to the bracket?

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The position of the arm is dependant on the assembled height of the clutch pack. The part number for the clutch arm is the same for the YZ and WR. Have you put a new clutch in your bike? Is the clutch original?

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Its the original clutch. It has been working well and doesn't seem at all worn (by feel, not by visual inspection).

The one I compared it to on the yz is worn out, but the original clutch as well.

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It felt and worked fine before I put on the hydraulic clutch.

Now it feels normal until it heats up a bit then fades - which is the problem with not having enough slack in the position of the slave cylinder.

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Hi!

had the exact same problem.

i did cut the actuating arm, made it about 5 mm longer and moved the connection to the pulling rod closer to the slave cylinder.

clutch pull is lighter now, like it a lot.

greetings from austria!

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had the exact same problem.

i did cut the actuating arm, made it about 5 mm longer and moved the connection to the pulling rod closer to the slave cylinder.

clutch pull is lighter now, like it a lot.

Hey nachteule

How were you able to move the connection to the pulling rod closer to the slave cylinder? Any details would be helpful!

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I have fit them no problem. Once the pull rod is in the clevis and the slave is in the bracket, you pull it back far wnough to drop the bolt in (helps to have another person pusing the actualtion arm or the clutch pressure plate removed).

Once installed, you should be able to pull the slave only 2mm at most before strong resistence is felt.

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Hi, i just cut the actuator arm in half, used a piece of steel to make it longer and welded the thing, so it has the right distance now. and its about 5mm longer, to help the clutch pull.

if you need pictures let me know.

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I have fit them no problem. Once the pull rod is in the clevis and the slave is in the bracket, you pull it back far wnough to drop the bolt in (helps to have another person pusing the actualtion arm or the clutch pressure plate removed).

Once installed, you should be able to pull the slave only 2mm at most before strong resistence is felt.

try what william1 recommends, seems to make perfect sense

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I have fit them no problem. Once the pull rod is in the clevis and the slave is in the bracket, you pull it back far wnough to drop the bolt in (helps to have another person pusing the actualtion arm or the clutch pressure plate removed).

Once installed, you should be able to pull the slave only 2mm at most before strong resistence is felt.

Hi William,

Please excuse me -I'm not really good at wrenching and I'm not sure I understand. My manual doesn't have a pull rod or a clevis listed, so I'm not sure what parts these are. Here is a schematic of the clutch:

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/yamaha-parts.aspx?aribrand=YAM#/Yamaha/WR250FX_-_WR250FX_-_2008/CLUTCH/WR250FX_%282008_MOTORCYCLE%29/CLUTCH_%28WR250FX_-_2008%29

Do you mean to loosen bolt 28 and turn part 24? Because it didn't turn any more. If not, which parts do you mean? Thanks for helping out!

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The 'pull rod' is the chrome 'bar' with the knob-ish end coming out of the slave cylinder. The clevis is the barrel bit that the knpob from the pull rood connects to. This clevis is inserted in to the actuator arm. These are the parts from the Magura kit. On a stock bike, they are simply the cable inner.

No, that is not the bolt, do not remove it. The bolt is #5 which holds clutch cable OUTTER bracket #9 here:

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/yamaha-parts.aspx?aribrand=YAM#/Yamaha/WR250FX_-_WR250FX_-_2008/CRANKCASE/WR250FX_(2008_MOTORCYCLE)/CRANKCASE_(WR250FX_-_2008)

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Hey William - that's what I originally did - but I don't have any freeplay. That's the whole problem.

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