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Crank Balancing

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For anyone who has an aftermarket rod, did you have your crank balanced after? I recently had a falicon rod installed on my dual sported xrr and after a few setbacks am now beginning to assemle. I've heard that balancing is not really necessary, especially since I'm using a stock piston, just want to get a few opinions.

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For anyone who has an aftermarket rod, did you have your crank balanced after? I recently had a falicon rod installed on my dual sported xrr and after a few setbacks am now beginning to assemle. I've heard that balancing is not really necessary, especially since I'm using a stock piston, just want to get a few opinions.

Not absolutely necessary,,,,,,,but i`m having mine balanced By CycleWizard,,,since he has the new piston too to check it`s weight,,anything worth doing,,is worth doing right.....

B

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Not absolutely necessary,,,,,,,but i`m having mine balanced By CycleWizard,,,since he has the new piston too to check it`s weight,,anything worth doing,,is worth doing right.....

B

Baaah! Anything worth doing, is worth doing half-cocked! Doing it right is too expensive:lol: Besides, if you do it right, you don't get to do it over when it breaks:foul:

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Baaah! Anything worth doing, is worth doing half-cocked! Doing it right is too expensive:lol: Besides, if you do it right, you don't get to do it over when it breaks:foul:

You def are a cheap bastich,,no question there..:bonk:

:smirk:

B

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Kind of hard to balance the crank when a conrod is already installed on it...

True.....but if you are replacing the rod,,as i am,it can be done....by weighing the bottom end of the rod,and pin,clips,piston and rings......

You are looking for a balance factor of about 55% ........add that to the pin and balance it...

Single cylinder crank balancing is more of an art,,,balancing it to reduce vibes at the most used RPM......depending on what is your most used rpm depends on what ammount of weight needs added or removed...it`s more likely you`ll need to change things with a lighter piston and rod too.....how much this will affect a big bore thumper will be interesting...to see if vibration through the bars is different at cvruising speed.....which is where most people notice it more,,as you have time to notic things where on a trail you have better things to do...:bonk::smirk:

Now CycleWizard has been building engines,,big bore thumpers,,for years...it would be interesting what his thoughts are on what should be done and how,,,and what the advantage is,,,and to what degree it`s noticed..

In the automotive field it`s not done,,unless you are racing,,,no one does this to their Ford Taurus:smirk: tim,e is money,,and a customer is not paying for something like this..i`ve never sent a crank out in my field for balancing,,never will..

B

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If I had thought about it at the time, I would have had it balanced while the rod was being installed. Unfortunately though, I missed it and the shop that installed the rod didn't make any mention of balancing. Right now the bottom end is fully assembled and the cases sealed. I'm just trying to figure out if I need to go back, tear it down and have it balanced or just go with it as is.

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If I had thought about it at the time, I would have had it balanced while the rod was being installed. Unfortunately though, I missed it and the shop that installed the rod didn't make any mention of balancing. Right now the bottom end is fully assembled and the cases sealed. I'm just trying to figure out if I need to go back, tear it down and have it balanced or just go with it as is.

I`d never take it back apart to do this......it`s not going to be a problem in the slightest.....it`s just an option in my opinion...any advantage is not worth redoing it for.,,,,,Run her.....:smirk:

99% of the shops couldn`t balance it anyway.....i`m having mine done because for 1......i know the guy can do it,,can do it properly and i`m a nutcase obsessed with perfection:smirk:

I`m getting port work,bowl work,KibbleWhite valves,locks,springs,,,,welded up reground HRC spec cam done...overbore,,going higher in compression,etc.etc.....so i`m replacing the rod that`s still in spec just to make sure it`s going to stand up a little longer,,the rod was in spec on the small end,,,but showing light wear,,so i said bugger it,,might as well go all the way...

B

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1.) I`d never take it back apart to do this......it`s not going to be a problem in the slightest.....it`s just an option in my opinion...any advantage is not worth redoing it for.,,,,,Run her.....:smirk:

2.) 99% of the shops couldn`t balance it anyway.....i`m having mine done because for 1......i know the guy can do it,,can do it properly and i`m a nutcase obsessed with perfection:smirk:

1.) +1.

2.) Unless CW has an easier method, balancing an assembled crank means knocking it apart to remove the old rod, reassembling and truing it with no rod so it can be balanced, taking it apart again, and then final reassembly and truing with the new rod. Me personally, I would be inclined to cut the old rod off of the crank to avoid the first disassemble/reassemble procedure.

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