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Im calm now...I can now put in my crank seal LOL...Yahhhmmmmm

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SO I TOOK THE THE CLUTCH COVER CASE OFF OF MY 2005 CRF 450,REMOVED THE CLUTCH BASKET AND EVERYTHING TO ACCESS THE CRANKSHAFT SEAL TO REPLACE IT DO TO OIL TRANSFER PROB.I NEED TO KNOW WHAT I DID WRONG IF ANYTHING AT ALL. I TOOK OFF THE TWO STACKED GEARS ON THE CRANKSHAFT,THEY ONLY GO ON ONE WAY,THE BIG ONE IN THE BACK LINES UP WITH A SAME SIZE GEAR TO THE RITE OF IT THAT LOOKS LIKE IT HAS SOME KIND OF BALANCER ON IT,BOTH GEARS HAVE A DOT THAT LINE UP,THAT'S NOT THE PROBLEM. THE PROBLEM IS WHEN I HAD THE TWO GEARS ON THE CRANKSHAFT OFF THE GEAR WITH THE LIL BALANCER LOOKIN THINGY ON IT,I SPUN THAT AROUND EACH WAY A COUPLE OF TIMES:banghead: DID I SCREW UP THE TIMING???? OR DO I SIMPLY LINE UP THE DOTS DURING REASSEMBLY?KEEP IN MIND LINING UP THE DOTS IS ALL GOOD AND EASY BUT BY FREE SPINNING THAT ONE GEAR DID I MESS UP ANY CERTAIN ORDER?????SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP QUICK.IM TRYING TO GO OUT THIS WEEKEND AND DONT WANNA BE FACING A BIGGER PROBLEM. THANKS AGAIN.

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Didnt mess anything up!!!! If I remember correctly the balancer shaft Has a spine missing or a keyway to line the gears and the balancer up correctly? Would have to check the manual etc. Or there is a dot on the end of the balancer shaft that you line the dots up with on the gears etc. Do a search though. But it wasnt a problem when I did my balancer shaft etc!

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DUDE! CAPS LOCK CAPS LOCK! oh, there, that's much better.....

No, you didn't mess anything up. Simply install the two gears back onto the end of the crankshaft (as you've mentioned, they only go on one way) then align the dots and you're good to go. Your timing is handled on the otherside of the crankshaft so no worries there. Hope this helps

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This site has been the most helpful thing i could have ever come across,i am new to the four stroke tech. I've been a 2-stroke kid since the age of 6 and i am 30 now and dont know what the heck all these extra parts are,hahahaha

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Do you have a shop manual? You really shouldn't be digging into the engine without one. There some online PDF's floating around if you need one.

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No i dont,i have always learned by doing.did you have any info,or are you the thumpertalk shop manual sales rep?lol. i can tear down and rebuild a two stroke 250 in a day,been doin it since i was 13,but im beginning to figure out the whole learn as i go thing might be a costly risk with the four stroke.And its not like im splitting the case for the first time here dude,just the clutch case side.

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been doin it since i was 13,but im beginning to figure out the whole learn as i go thing might be a costly risk with the four stroke.

You need a shop manual for this bike. If you don't use one, don't cry on the forum when you screw something up and it costs you big bucks.

BTW, you can get a PDF version for free if you look in the right place. I'd track it down for you if you didn't cop an attitude.

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what he said, GET A SHOP MANUAL.. FORGET THE LEARN BY DOING, YOU NEED TO LEARN BY DOING WITH A SHOP MANUAL.. :smirk:

Having had a shop manual, you would have saved everyone some time. it is an easy procedure, and would have seen on a page the balacer has nothing to do with timing. Be sure your dots line up on the gears or the motor will vibrate pretty bad, and make sure your seal is in the right way. There is a thread i posted about "oil migration" and the direction of the seal on the updated seal. NUMBERS IN.

Zanax? Ambien.. LOL

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Hey,thanks alot guys,for both the knowledge and the funny comments,my wife was laughing cause i am a lil high strung,lol.sorry for the attitude.

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By the way,as far as peening the boss so that the seal doesnt get sucked in or move (crankshaft seal,"oil migration") where exactly do you peen it? I would figure behind the seal but doesnt seem to be enough room,boss seems to be same depth as seal,maybe a hair bigger.or do you do it dead center and press the seal pass the peens to lock it in? that just worries me it would mar the seal causing a path for oil to travel under pressure.im not sure,any helpful info? And I did get around to picking up a manual today,thanks again.

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I wouldnt try to peen the seal into place. Just get everything nice and clean with brake cleaner and set the seal with some red loctite.

That seal just gets set flush with the boss it sits in. The manual calls for .002" of an inch recess...I call that flush. When you drive it into place, use something large enough to cover the outside of it so you stop flush. A flat block of wood works nicely. Or a really big socket that's flat all the way across the back side.

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