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rod tolerences

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This is from the 06 manual, but I´m assuming this measurement should be the same.

Standard: 0.25 ∼ 0.35 mm (0.0098 ∼ 0.0138 in.)

Service Limit: 0.55 mm (0.0217 in.)

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funny thing is right before my rod let go during a top end rebuild I checked the rod clearance and it was in spec.. well per the 09 manual that I borrow from pumasforpets.. I think I have it in my garage so I will check when I get home from work tonight for you "I'mslowerthenpr1mal"

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funny thing is right before my rod let go during a top end rebuild I checked the rod clearance and it was in spec.. well per the 09 manual that I borrow from pumasforpets.. I think I have it in my garage so I will check when I get home from work tonight for you "I'mslowerthenpr1mal"

How many hours on the engine when the rod let loose? Big end bearing go away or crank bearing lockup?

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How many hours on the engine when the rod let loose? Big end bearing go away or crank bearing lockup?

35hrs, big end bearing went sending bottom of rod into cases

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Since you all are on the topic of rods, I have a few questions. I have an '11 which I have big bored, and then took back to 250cc mode and put the '12 dual injector system on. All this has been with the stock crank/rod and stock piston or vertex piston for the big bore when I was running that. So far it seems to be holding up just fine. I am wondering what you would recommend , though, when I do decide to upgrade the rod. One option is to get the '12 crank assembly complete for about $325 I think. That is a good deal for a new, stronger (so they say) crank. The next option would be to get a CP/Carillo Rod and have that installed by a machine shop to my '11 crank webs. That would probably cost me the same or more than the '12 crank assembly. Still another option is to go with the CP/Carillo long rod kit with special piston and smaller wrist pin. That kit is about $600 and I'd still need to have it installed. Either Carillo kit would require me to buy a big end bearing and a pin (OEM) to go with the new rod.

Any thoughts? I am thinking that the difference from the +1.5mm rod would not be worth the money. And then the Carillo stock length rod would cost quite a bit too, but if it is bulletproof then maybe it is a good option. The deal with that though is it might lead to a worse crank balance factor than the stock part. I could have the crank balanced, but that is still more money to throw at it. IT seems the best deal is a '12 complete crank assembly. It would be balanced and stronger.

Opinions? Primal...you got '11 or '12 parts when you fixed your engine after the rod let go? Are you happy with it now?

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