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DIY Dual sport harness? Anyone here made their own?

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I have an XR250 and soon will have a 400 as well. I'm posting in this forum because it's relevant to all makes...

Do we have any engineer types here who have made/created/assembled their own dual sport harness?

I'm no stranger to electrical work (street bikes), and it seems like I could ebay some parts and link them with my own wiring to create my own kit.

I would love to hear from some of you who may have attempted this yourselves; would like to hear what you've done, what parts have been used, etc.

If we can collaborate some effort on a parts list, I'm very willing to make a pictorial how-to write up on creating the whole setup.

Obvious parts to start with would be:

- high output stator

- regulator (reg/rec? what kind?)

- battery?

- high/low headlight

- 4 turn signals

- dual element rear bulb

- signal relay

- headlight relay?

- horn

- brake light switches

- handlebar switch

- maybe a keyed ignition?

Am I missing anything?

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I have always wired my own bikes.

I use Baja Designs headlight with attached turn signals, a UFO tail light with integrated turn signals, a Euro-Honda handle bar switch from Four Strokes Only, a banjo bolt brake light switch, and a turn signal ticker with attached rubber mount that pushes on tab on head light from Flanders Co.

On my old XRs they were all AC systems, on new button bikes they are all DC off the existing battery.

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LOL, well you are more or less asking a pro to do his job for free.

Making it is easy if you understand everything. Not so easy if you do not. There is more to it than wire and tape.

Wire guage

Wire quality

Component draw

Available power


Cabiling length/routing

Can a higher output stator be fitted if needed? Does it have to be 'total loss'?

Where can the battery go?

Then a lot depends on the bike and where (and how) the bike is being used.

On road and titled, needeing everything DOT

A headlight and tail light, no real output need

Something inbetween?


This is why if you look at the various 'kits' on the markets, there is different ones for different bikes and requirements. Sure, it is cheaper to do it yourself, if your time is free.

Take a look at the bottom of the page here, you'll see similar questions.

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I posted this several years ago and I have used it on an xr400 and a wr250f this works great for several years while I owned each bike. I have been meaning to do an updated version and I will look into it over the next few weeks. If you need any info drop me a line or search my posts under newfoundlander this is easy to do as long as the stator puts out the recommended watts for the items you are running.http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261459&highlight=newfoundlander

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My quote 2005

have been researching this over the winter months and put a system on my xr 400. The stock stator does not have enough power to run the flasher without the headlight and tail light flashing. I didn't want to spend the money for a new stator so i went to the dealer and ordered flushmount turn signals,

brakelight switch and a horn. My bike was bought used and the previous owner had the stock pigtails in the headlight and taillight replaced with two

contact ones for the high and low beam in the headlight and for the brake

and park light. He also had a speedo and turnsignal switch/ horn switch

installed. Next i went to the local dollar store and picked up 10 aa

batteries at 1.2volts each which when wired in series gives you 12 volts $10

cdn. Pay attention to how many volts they are rated for some are 1.5 volts

so you will need 8. I then went to radio shack and picked up a full wave

bridger rectifier good for 25A around $4.95cdn. My light does not

flicker at idle and the battery charges and puts out enough power to run the

flasher. This will work on any dirtbike that has enough power to run a headlight. I have some images of how i wired the bike and would be happy to share them with you if you email me i am unsure of how to post the diagram on this site.


Edited by Newfoundlander
Added items

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Making it is pretty easy, the hard part is keeping the wiring straight. Also, it should only take a few hours to assemble, but it seemed to take forever for all the parts to arrive.

This is my parts list:

Here's my list, * denotes things I had on hand. Also, I recommend finding a brake fluid pressure brake switch. This will be more expensive, but easier in the long run.

Headlight Assy

Tail Lens, WR250/450

LED Tail "bulbs" (these were crap, went to 1157)

1157 incandescent Bulbs


Turn/Horn/Hi-Lo switch (might want to get one with an "off" setting too)


Fused lead (so if you short something, it blows the fuse, not your wiring)

Clutch/Mirror Perch


F. Brake Switch

R. Brake Switch

5-2-4 wire converter (this normally goes for a five wire light to run a 4-wire trailer, I ran both stop/turn/tail in the WR lens)

license plate "bulbs"

"1157" sockets/bayonettes (I ended up modifying Westinghouse 11100 AC bayonettes and modifying them to accept 1157 bulbs)


Multi-color wire*

Metal Scrap*

Wiring harness*

Hi-beam indicator LED

Trail Tech Vapor ($110, most expensive thing out of the whole deal)

Vapor Dash - made my own out of sheet metal*

Total: $322.66.

Note: this is a TT-R with e-start, so the rect/reg and stator output were already taken care of. I just wouldn't run all day at idle with the high-beam on as I'm afraid that would be the breaking point where the stator couldn't keep up with the electrical demand and would discharge the battery.

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I found the DRC kit is very similar to a simple home setup, but it did cost me $175. I would advise anyone that is adding a battery/stator to a bike that doesn't put out much power to look into LED turn signals, they have way less power draw leaving more for your headlight and tail light.

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I agree, LEDs are usually better, cheap LEDs are dangerous. The LED trailer lights I have are brighter than incandescent bulbs.

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