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yz250 rear brake - really need help guys quick

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I have an 06 yz 250 and the rear brake bleeder was over tightened ruining the tip and the caliper (oops). Bought a new one and cannot for the life of me get it to pressurize (the puck moves a mm or two and thats it). When I crack the bleeder, fluid shoots out, but I cannot get the puck to move anywhere. Any Ideas as I can't get pressure. I will go and buy a bleeder, but If anyone has any ideas, I could really use them, gonna ride thursday, will suck without a rear brake. thanks so much

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I just bought a pressure bleeder and when I hook up the hose, when you close the bleeder, it still sucks air so there must be something wrong with the caliper and fitting.

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Did you get a pressure bleeder or a vacuum pump bleeder?

I'm guessing that you meant to say you got a vacuum pump. When the suction hose is just slipped on to the bleeder, those pumps will usually draw enough suction to pull air in between the hose and bleeder. If you have a small zip tie handy, you might try using it as a simple hose clamp to insure that the air bubbles you are seeing are not coming in from the outside.

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Zlathim- sorry, its a vacuum bleeder and I will give that zip tie trick a shot as a last try before tomorrows ride. AJA- The puck is flush from where I bought it and I am not sure how to get it out without using compressed air. I may epoxy the old bleeder bolt in the old caliper and maybe try to bleed that backwards as a last resort.

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sometimes you have to let the caliper hang in a way that there are no spots in the line that the air bubbles can get stuck in, tap on it to work the bubbles to the master. pumping it fast causes bubbles but can try that a couple times first to get the piston moved out. worth a try anyways. I have had it work for me. vacuum bleaders suck air between the bleeder and the caliper through the threads. sometimes a shot of brake clean on the bleeder will fill the gap and get it to suck just brake fluid. shut the bleeder before turning off the vacuum or removing the hose.

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Zlathim- sorry, its a vacuum bleeder and I will give that zip tie trick a shot as a last try before tomorrows ride. AJA- The puck is flush from where I bought it and I am not sure how to get it out without using compressed air. I may epoxy the old bleeder bolt in the old caliper and maybe try to bleed that backwards as a last resort.

The zip tie trick won't really do anything for you excapt let you know if there is truly still air in the system, or if it is being sucked in from the outside like I described.

If there is enough pressure to squirt fluid out when you depress the brake and open the bleeder, but the piston won't move, I'm not sure what the heck is going on. If you have the capability to post a video, it might help one of us figure out what is going on. There is always the possibility that the master cylinder is bad. What was going on with it that made you want to bleed the brakes in the first place?

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You should be able to gravity bleed it w/a clear hose and a clean container to catch the brake fluid. Sometimes you have to fill the hose before its attatched to the nipple and let gravity suck the fluid and air bubbles out. This process is explained on here in great detail somewhere, and it helped me do mine. I was about to snap. Bought the whole MC rebuild kit and could not get it to bleed until I used this method. If you can not find the post or your vacuum pump doesnt work let me know and I will repost , (same as in the manual if I am not mistaken)

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i had this happen on my crf 250 once. pump and bled for two hours straight. ended up having to get a syringe and pull the fluid through. good to go after that.

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