damping rod holder, is it needed?

Do any of you find it essential to have the damping rod holder (yamaha special tool) for the forks when performing fork maintenance?

I prefer to use a cartridge holder, but you can get by without it if you use an impact driver to R&R the compression bolt at the bottom of the forks.

Is this something that needs to be done when you change the fork oil?


Just turn the fork upside down and pump out the old oil. Theres no need to remove the dampning rod if you don't want to.

OK cool, then I assume that the cartridges stay in while seting the oil height. Between this info, the manual and the step by step from MotoStyle I think I'm all ready to go.

Thanks all!!

Here is the deal with the tool. Its a tight fit in there for a regular (19mm I think?) wrench. The danger comes from the fact that you want to run the jam nut up so you dont tighten your wrench onto the nut. If you spin the end cap up at all, you are more or less diableing the comp adjuster valve on the end cap. So, if you feel you can get your wrench on in there with the end cap seated your ok as long as your sure

#1 you can tighten the jam nut down snug with out pinching the wrench in.

#2 you can tighten the end cap down on the jam nut and not the jam nut to the end cap like the book says.

I found using a very thin wrench like the kinda cheap ones that come under the seat of street bikes :) dose the trick. Either that or grind down a craftstman to be thin enough. Just make sure when its all back togeter its tight and the fork feels like both adjusters are working. If its soft and wont stiffen up, the end caps are probably not seated on the control tubes, Ie, sitting on the jam nut.

Thats my take on it :D .

No you dont have to break the rod loose to change the oil.

Sir Thump,

The simplest of oil changes involves no more than taking the top cap off, removeing the spring, and then pouring and pumping all the old oil out.

If you decide you want to replace the seals or inspect the bushings, you'll need to separate the fork tube from the slider tube.

You'll also find that there is a pocket of oil that resides between the outer fork tube and slider tube. This has to be purged as the last step in removing the oil, and should also be filled or purged when setting oil height. It's about an ounce or two from each fork. To remove, simply extend the two tubes in their longest distance. You'll hear the oil come out.

If you find the oil contains excessive debris, you may want to pull the compression tubes out, and separate the two fork tubes. To do this, you'll need either a 14mm hex drive socket and an impact gun, or the same drive socket, or a 14mm allen, and a cartridge tube holder tool. Either combo works.

Motion Pro makes the least expensive cartridge holder. The 14mm socket can be had via Snap-On. And of course, I'm sure you can find a 14mm allen tool at the local store. You can also use a hardered metric bolt with a head size that is 14mm, in combination with two jam nuts.

Lastly, when you replace the top caps, make sure the caps are fully snugged against the compression rods before you apply and tighten the 17mm rod nut. And never grab the compression rods with anything other than your hands. Even a simple protected clamp can distort them.

Lastly, avoid using any solvents on any assembled parts. It gets trapped and will harm your new oil.


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