Stock position for KTM 18-20mm offset triple clamps

[Kalashnikov]

I did the steering bearings on my 09 KTM 250XC and set the offset up in the 20mm position. The problem is I don't remember what the stock position was. Can anyone confirm what the offset is set at stock?

[tye1138]

You wanna run it in the 20mm offset position, thats going to be the most stable. The 18mm offset position is a bit more twitchy, though quicker steering for sure. I'm pretty sure the 20mm is the stock setting, it is on the SX models.

[PSD_Sun]

18mm is terrible as the front end just washes.

20mm is stock.

22mm (like the new models get) is better all around.

[delleetodd]

Not trying to be a know it all but I think you guys have it backwards. Less offset is more stable.

[Bonestock07]

I am pretty sure delleetodd is correct. I thought 20mm was better turning and 18 was better stability (according to my KTM manual). And stock is 20mm.

Edited January 23, 2012 by Bonestock07

[Bonestock07]

Yep, just double checked my manual, 20mm is stock setting. And it states 18 is for directional stability, 20mm is for enhanced cornering.

[tctrailrider]

18mm is terrible as the front end just washes.

20mm is stock.

22mm (like the new models get) is better all around.

Personal preference, I find the opposite. Removed the 22's from 2011 200XCW, replaced with 18's and it sticks like glue. I like the heavier feel I get with lower offset.

[tye1138]

Not trying to be a know it all but I think you guys have it backwards. Less offset is more stable.

With less offset, you are putting more weight on the front end. The less offset you have, the shorter the wheelbase and the quicker the steering of the machine. Likewise because you have a shorter wheelbase and more weight on the front, you will find the bike becomes less stable. When you have MORE offset, like 22mm for instance, you increase wheelbase and likewise increase stability with it.

Obviously most people don't understand how to setup their bikes properly, so they just assume that the offset made the difference, but in reality you can change a lot of how the bike feels by simply changing the ride height and rear axel position in the swing arm. I prefer to run my axel all the way back, giving me optimal max wheelbase with the 20mm offset setting. That gives me the most stability and if I need more weight on the front end, I'll lower the front end using the clamps.

Everyone manufacturer runs their own geometry numbers and its truly the "characteristic" of the machine. When you hear about the Suzuki being a corner master, well thats all because of the rake and trail they use: 27 degree's and 114mm. When you hear of the Kawasaki not being a great steering bike; 28.2 degree's and 120mm. You can clearly see there, the BIG difference in those two machines and when you ride them, you will notice right away. Obviously you need to add the offset numbers to those basic geometry numbers, but you get the idea.

KTM however, has stuck to some basic numbers for quite a while; 26.5 degree's with 112mm of trail . So you can clearly see, they are twitchy (due to the rake) already, decrease that trail a tiny bit through the use of the 18mm offset clamp and good luck with high speed stability.

Edited January 23, 2012 by tye1138

[delleetodd]

Everyone manufacturer runs their own geometry numbers and its truly the "characteristic" of the machine. When you hear about the Suzuki being a corner master, well thats all because of the rake and trail they use: 27 degree's and 114mm. When you hear of the Kawasaki not being a great steering bike; 28.2 degree's and 120mm. You can clearly see there, the BIG difference in those two machines and when you ride them, you will notice right away. Obviously you need to add the offset numbers to those basic geometry numbers, but you get the idea.

KTM however, has stuck to some basic numbers for quite a while; 26.5 degree's with 112mm of trail . So you can clearly see, they are twitchy (due to the rake) already, decrease that trail a tiny bit through the use of the 18mm offset clamp and good luck with high speed stability.

Good point. I agree that a longer wheelbase will make a bike more stable but I'll give you another way to look at it. Suzuki 27 degrees, 114mm trail. KTM 26.5 degrees, 112mm trail. Drop your forks flush with triple clamps will make the KTM closer if not equal to the Suzuki 27 degree head angle (with proper sag 115mm). Now move your triple clamps backwards by 2mm which brings you from 112mm trail to Suzuki's 114mm trial or close to it. Your rear wheel is already all the way back for stability. You are now riding a more stable KTM that corners as well as a Suzuki. This is how my bikes are set up which took me years to figure out. More front trail also gives more stability. Not trying to argue, just stating a different point of view. Suzuki has nothing on my KTMs lol.

[tye1138]

Good point. I agree that a longer wheelbase will make a bike more stable but I'll give you another way to look at it. Suzuki 27 degrees, 114mm trail. KTM 26.5 degrees, 112mm trail. Drop your forks flush with triple clamps will make the KTM closer if not equal to the Suzuki 27 degree head angle (with proper sag 115mm). Now move your triple clamps backwards by 2mm which brings you from 112mm trail to Suzuki's 114mm trial or close to it. Your rear wheel is already all the way back for stability. You are now riding a more stable KTM that corners as well as a Suzuki. This is how my bikes are set up which took me years to figure out. More front trail also gives more stability. Not trying to argue, just stating a different point of view. Suzuki has nothing on my KTMs lol.

Umm, sure raising the ride height does effect the trail, but it doesn't effect the rake enough. If it did, race teams wouldn't be running .5 degree offset steering head bearings, they'd be just changing the offset on the clamps until they got it right. Sadly the combo is the key and while I don't have enough experience on the dirt, I for sure do on the tarmac and I can tell you what works for pavement, won't work on dirt. So my input might not be the most accurate on this subject. Understand it I do, but what the magical numbers are, sadly I don't know... just going on the knowledge I have from roadracing! ?

Edited January 25, 2012 by tye1138

[gmoss357]

If you didn't mess with the triples, they will stay at the offset they came with. You have to literally loosen the bottom bolt and rotate the steerer tube and tighten it back up.

I tried the 18mm and it sucked for me. Maybe it requires some tweaking of sag, clickers, etc. 18mm was very unstable and didn't turn for chit. I quickly switched it back.

The manual is often wrong or has things backwards, so I don't put a lot of faith in what it says on some things.

Edited January 25, 2012 by gmoss

[rookie517]

i tried both 18mm and 20mm offset

end up, i went back to stock 20mm, it handles so much better for me, at least.

[Bonestock07]

The manual is often wrong or has things backwards, so I don't put a lot of faith in what it says on some things.

Now that is concerning!

Edited January 25, 2012 by Bonestock07

[delleetodd]

http://www.mb1suspension.com/id103.html

Here is a link to some good reading about triple clamp offset.

[mikes300]

wow, someone does not understand geometry, so wrong, do some searching to find the truth grasshopper!

[tye1138]

Here is a link to some good reading about triple clamp offset.

Yep, thats pretty much right. Less offset = more trail = quicker steering.

But quicker steering doesn't equate to greater stability. There is a set of numbers that works for every chassis. Just because someone says less offset is better, doesn't mean they're referring to our bikes. KTM made an extremely conscious decision to change the offset to 22mm. That to me means, they feel that is the best of both worlds.

wow, someone does not understand geometry, so wrong, do some searching to find the truth grasshopper!

wow, helpful, very helpful.

Edited January 25, 2012 by tye1138

[Steve Coverley]

On 1/25/2012 at 7:47 AM, gmoss357 said:

If you didn't mess with the triples, they will stay at the offset they came with. You have to literally loosen the bottom bolt and rotate the steerer tube and tighten it back up.

I tried the 18mm and it sucked for me. Maybe it requires some tweaking of sag, clickers, etc. 18mm was very unstable and didn't turn for chit. I quickly switched it back.

The manual is often wrong or has things backwards, so I don't put a lot of faith in what it says on some things.