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DRZ400E vs DRZ400S

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What carb.. Mikuni BSR36 or an FCR39?

Look at the base gasket.. is it a single layer? or 3 layers held together with a rivet?

Other than that you would have to measure the header diameter and check the markings on the cams.

The other things mentioned above are indicators on a DRZ S/E for the US market.. bikes that get delivered to places like where you’re at.. no telling how the bolt on stuff might be configured.

These bikes here are difficult to find, this one is for sale in Saigon while I am living in Hanoi. Have to take a plain to have a look...

With header diameter you mean the diameter of the cylinder head? (sorry English is not my first language)

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DRZ E carb set-up with coast enricher still on.

DSCF0743.jpg

DRZ E set up with coast enricher removed - you can now see the FCR carb clearly.

55313cfd.jpg

also note the base gasket is very thin, seems the same size as the head gasket.

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DRZ E carb set-up with coast enricher still on.

DRZ E set up with coast enricher removed - you can now see the FCR carb clearly.

also note the base gasket is very thin, seems the same size as the head gasket.

Thanks, tomorrow morning I will call to ask for a good picture!

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These bikes here are difficult to find, this one is for sale in Saigon while I am living in Hanoi. Have to take a plain to have a look...

With header diameter you mean the diameter of the cylinder head? (sorry English is not my first language)

No issue happy to help.

Header Diamiter= the size of the exhaust header... where it exits the head.. Larger would be the E, smaller the S and SM.

Base gasket= between the cylinder and the case is a gasket, the "base gasket" the higher compression E uses a single layer gasket, the lower compression S uses a three layer gasket.

http://imageshack.us...07/drz400s.jpg/

small red circles at the bottom of this picture.

Look at the lower left hand corner of it. If it is an S gasket it will have a brass rivet holding the 3 layers together.

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E header pipe = 41 mm OD, S header pipe = 38 mm OD.

Nice I should have included that.

Easiest check is to see what the carb is. FCR = E, Mikuni = S

Kind of, it's only a partial clue..

look at a 2008 DRZ E in the US.... it'll have a three layer base gasket and Mikuni carb...

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Kind of, it's only a partial clue..

look at a 2008 DRZ E in the US.... it'll have a three layer base gasket and Mikuni carb...

I thought the E was only configured like that for the US but there may be similar E configurations for other countries that I don't know about.

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The UK 'E' seems to be a normal 'E' whereas the Australian 'E' appears to have an 'S' rear sub-frame as standard, it may also have rear foot pegs and therefore also a harder rear spring to accommodate passengers. Still the same engine as the UK 'E' though.

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What coolling system is on the Australian E? In the US the cooling systems are different between the E and S. I would think they would put the US S configuration on the Australian E since it has a theromstat.

Also if that is an E motor wouldn't the head be machined for the manual decomp?

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They're meant for different things...

One is set-up as a dirt-bike...the other a dual-sport. One you will be pinning the throttle on and off in quick burst, the other will be more mild, dealing with traffic and what not. The S will better withstand long periods of droning down the pavement...The SM even more so...

The S model can be made closer to a dirt-bike ... but the E will never be a good on the street!!!

So pick your poison...

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The UK 'E' seems to be a normal 'E' whereas the Australian 'E' appears to have an 'S' rear sub-frame as standard, it may also have rear foot pegs and therefore also a harder rear spring to accommodate passengers. Still the same engine as the UK 'E' though.

This is what I was looking/hoping for. When riding off-road you have best power available. Saying that...

They're meant for different things...

One is set-up as a dirt-bike...the other a dual-sport. One you will be pinning the throttle on and off in quick burst, the other will be more mild, dealing with traffic and what not. The S will better withstand long periods of droning down the pavement...The SM even more so...

The S model can be made closer to a dirt-bike ... but the E will never be a good on the street!!!

So pick your poison...

...my wife and me also go out on the bike for trips, a weekend or week, cruising around Vietnam, on and off-road, hotel hopping. Also I like to use it in the city. Should I give in on off-road fun and a S-type the better choice?

The S-type seems to be much cheaper what I see online? E has more power so probably "better/stronger" build engine. Same for suspension I assume. But S comes with more features. A new E is about 25%-30% more expensive than S isn't it?

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E has more power so probably "better/stronger" build engine.

only marginally so when completely stock.

Differences in powertrain is.

Carb, compression ratio, cams, exhaust and CDI

Carb is a simple swap (but pricey), compression ratio is just a gasket, cams and exhaust many folks change on all models and CDI is only different in the RPM limiter,,, meaning little as both E and S engines are done making power before either CDI rev limiter is reached.

Same for suspension I assume.

2003 and up S is the same suspension as E, except springs. S being heaver.. and ALL models need to be sprung for the rider, unless they weigh 160 in gear or so.

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only marginally so when completely stock.

Differences in powertrain is.

Carb, compression ratio, cams, exhaust and CDI

Carb is a simple swap (but pricey), compression ratio is just a gasket, cams and exhaust many folks change on all models and CDI is only different in the RPM limiter,,, meaning little as both E and S engines are done making power before either CDI rev limiter is reached.

2003 and up S is the same suspension as E, except springs. S being heaver.. and ALL models need to be sprung for the rider, unless they weigh 160 in gear or so.

Thanks very helpful, I've also been reading some other stories on TT and the S seems to be what I am looking for. A trust able dual sport, low maintenance.

Can you explain me what CDI stands for?

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Just had a message that this bike has been sold... so no pics to come.

However I am not sad about it, do need to know what I am looking for first and slowly getting there.

This 10 year old bike cost almost the same as a brand new 2012 S-type. Problem is import tax for Vietnam, hold your breath... 100%. Than it starts running in the figures...

Next week I am meeting a guy who seems to know a way around. Than I can have a look for a bike form outside Vietnam. Since spare parts are a problem here as well second hand bikes are made and fixed with what ever they can find...

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There is a substantial power difference between the Stock E and S....

Blue=S

Red=E

STOCKSVSKHP.jpg

STOCKSVSKTQ.jpg

Ya, but what's the gap like if the S has a header, 3x3, and an FCR thrown on it like most enthusiasts are going to do. I'm genuinely interested in what the real world gains are if everything else is the same but the cams and base gasket. Finding an older E with the FCR and in decent shape can be a real challenge to find around here, but there are always good deals to be had on S and SM models. I really like my SM with the dirt wheels combo.

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They're meant for different things...

One is set-up as a dirt-bike...the other a dual-sport. One you will be pinning the throttle on and off in quick burst, the other will be more mild, dealing with traffic and what not. The S will better withstand long periods of droning down the pavement...The SM even more so...

The S model can be made closer to a dirt-bike ... but the E will never be a good on the street!!!

So pick your poison...

I've got an sm and i'm just doing some research since i'm going to be builing mine up... Why do you say that the E will never b good on the street? I'm curious because i will be doing Stage 1 hotcams as well a other mods. does it have anything to do with the single layer base gasket on the E vs the Triple layer on the SM?

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SexySumo:

I may wrong, and there are people on this site, that have forgotten more than I ever knew, but as I understand it, the E motor is designed as basically an MX bike...a toned down RMZ-450 so to speak... The engine is designed to produce short, bursts of power...as in turn, accelerate (WOT), hit jump, fly 50ft, land, brake, turn into berm/rut, accelerate to WOT and do it over again for a 1/2 hr - 45mins at a time. Then take the bike over to your "pit" rest for an hour and then go ride again for another 1/2hr.

The S/SM engines are more concerned with being able to drone on for hours and hours, less aggressive cams, smaller valves, different gearing, etc... allow this to happen. Also Suzuki has included creature comforts on the S/SM models that aren't on the E. Rubber footpegs, bar-dampers, different seat, etc...The S model is truly a "DUAL-SPORT" bike...Does well on both pavement and dirt.

If I were a 100% street / SM guy, I would have bought the DR-650 though...Much, Much better on the street and still good for most fire-road action...no fun at all when things slow-down and get tight. That's when the 400 shines... A "GOOD" rider can take that bike anywhere when its properly geared...

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SexySumo:

I may wrong, and there are people on this site, that have forgotten more than I ever knew, but as I understand it, the E motor is designed as basically an MX bike...a toned down RMZ-450 so to speak... The engine is designed to produce short, bursts of power...as in turn, accelerate (WOT), hit jump, fly 50ft, land, brake, turn into berm/rut, accelerate to WOT and do it over again for a 1/2 hr - 45mins at a time. Then take the bike over to your "pit" rest for an hour and then go ride again for another 1/2hr.

The S/SM engines are more concerned with being able to drone on for hours and hours, less aggressive cams, smaller valves, different gearing, etc... allow this to happen. Also Suzuki has included creature comforts on the S/SM models that aren't on the E. Rubber footpegs, bar-dampers, different seat, etc...The S model is truly a "DUAL-SPORT" bike...Does well on both pavement and dirt.

If I were a 100% street / SM guy, I would have bought the DR-650 though...Much, Much better on the street and still good for most fire-road action...no fun at all when things slow-down and get tight. That's when the 400 shines... A "GOOD" rider can take that bike anywhere when its properly geared...

There is almost no difference in the motors, E, SM, they all have the same strengths, build deign, and capabilities. Even the Kicker motor has the same general build and strengths (and weaknesses)

A few bolt on differences (cams, base gasket, carb, exhaust) are all that differentiate them one from another.

The frame is the same geometry, S, E, Kicker and SM.

The kicker, E and S have the same suspension with just a spring weight difference.

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I hear the S & SM carb & cams might be better for traffic work (low throttle openings).

Does the SM have a cush drive? - if so that will make it more comfortable on the street.

The S & SM are less picky over fuel quality as the engine is lower compression.

'E' tyres & gearing is less suited to street work but that is an easy fix.

S & SM has better clocks if that matters to you.

I won't consider the 'E' to be 'MX' in the slightest, or even an Enduro for that matter TBH but it is a very good trail bike.

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