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To revalve or just rebuild

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The 2007 250 xc-w that I just picked up has 125 hours on it. I do not know the history. Thinking I should send the forks and shock out for a rebuild and heavier springs. Should I do a revalve or just a rebuild? I weigh 190 in street clothes. The bike will be used for trails with lots of roots and rocks, railroad beds, and a small amount of pavement to connect trails. I have not ridden the bike hard yet to judge the current setup. thanks

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In your case, I would recommend(if you can afford it) a revalve, springs, the works. Throw a bladder kit in, throw a x-trig preload adjuster. Your looking at the better part of $1000 bucks but with a bike that old it will be needed. If your on a budget, just a service and springs will do wonders!

Edited by Pumpkin450sxf

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What is it with you guys that think you have to spend a grand to have great susp?? The industry has done a great job of brainwashing many. Used springs can save you some coin and a revalve will cost ya around $500 around here. A bladder is nice, but not necessary. I have one in my bike now and I notice no difference in this shock and the shock in my 05.

Consider this, part of the cost of a revalve is the servicing. A base service includes fresh oil and inspection of all the parts. It doesn't includes seals or any wear parts. So, do you want to pay for another service if in six months you decide to get a revalve done? Or, is the added cost of a revalve out of the question. If you can afford a revalve, that will be your best value.

Did the po have the susp revalved for them, or is it stock.? Has the susp ever been serviced? Short of shuffling shims (revalve), a service is just that. They have to inspect the shims, replacing any broken or cupped shims or other parts.

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I'd suggest you hold off on revalving the bike until you know what you are looking for. Service the components and spring for your weight, then ride until you have defined complaints. Your tuner needs information to do his job.

Also, skip the bladder kit. They do not improve performance (and are less reliable). Any legitimate WP tuner will have equipment to service the shock with the stock separator piston.

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Completely agree adam. You need to know what the issues are orthe difficulties you are having before engaging a tuner. Otherwise the tuner is just guessing and you can end up dissatisfied. Makes their job much harder.

Edited by gmoss

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Thanks for the advice. Waiting on the revalve makes sense as I don't know how the stock suspension works. New springs will be needed as my sag measurement is to high. I have been going to several suspension services websites. A rebuild seems to consist of disassembling and measuring all parts for wear, an oil change is just changing the fluid for new, due to hours on bike and lack of history It seems the rebuild would be wise over the oil change. If I was to look for a used shock and fork spring what weight would work for my 190lbs plus gear? I may be able to do forks myself but not the shock.

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for the trails we ride there is no better money spent than on a quality revalve...Forks .44 The shock? I would put all of your gear on and weigh yourself. My buddy Paul carries twice the amount of crap I do, so guessing on a geared up weight, would be just that a guess.

If you use FC or C-Cycle they know our terrain. Be honest about your speed and weight and they will do a great job.

Edited by skisnh

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What is it with you guys that think you have to spend a grand to have great susp?? The industry has done a great job of brainwashing many. Used springs can save you some coin and a revalve will cost ya around $500 around here. A bladder is nice, but not necessary. I have one in my bike now and I notice no difference in this shock and the shock in my 05.

Consider this, part of the cost of a revalve is the servicing. A base service includes fresh oil and inspection of all the parts. It doesn't includes seals or any wear parts. So, do you want to pay for another service if in six months you decide to get a revalve done? Or, is the added cost of a revalve out of the question. If you can afford a revalve, that will be your best value.

Did the po have the susp revalved for them, or is it stock.? Has the susp ever been serviced? Short of shuffling shims (revalve), a service is just that. They have to inspect the shims, replacing any broken or cupped shims or other parts.

I'd suggest you hold off on revalving the bike until you know what you are looking for. Service the components and spring for your weight, then ride until you have defined complaints. Your tuner needs information to do his job.

Also, skip the bladder kit. They do not improve performance (and are less reliable). Any legitimate WP tuner will have equipment to service the shock with the stock separator piston.

Completely agree adam. You need to know what the issues are orthe difficulties you are having before engaging a tuner. Otherwise the tuner is just guessing and you can end up dissatisfied. Makes their job much harder.

Your statements make sense in many cases but not in this case. For the service/springs in th OPs bike your looking at the $400 bucks or so. The tuner is already in the fork and shock, he might as well spend the extra couple hundred and get a revalve. He will spend $400 now or $400 later, he would actually save money in the end to just have it done now.

As for the comment about a bladder kit, they make a huge improvment in shock feel, especially in a non-link KTM. If your not feeling the benefits, your suspension isnt set up properly.

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Your statements make sense in many cases but not in this case. For the service/springs in th OPs bike your looking at the $400 bucks or so. The tuner is already in the fork and shock, he might as well spend the extra couple hundred and get a revalve. He will spend $400 now or $400 later, he would actually save money in the end to just have it done now.

As for the comment about a bladder kit, they make a huge improvment in shock feel, especially in a non-link KTM. If your not feeling the benefits, your suspension isnt set up properly.

If you HAVE to have new springs then yeah, but why on earth would anyone buy new springs with the wealth of availability of used springs?? My tuner gets $85 for a service, barring parts, per end. I could see have around $250 for used springs and servicing. Springs are moot as he is going to have those anyway. I will say though, early on I didn't replace fork springs and had no issues at the speeds I rode, even for a 205lb rider without gear. I sprung the rear and rode.

As far as the bladder, I disagree. I have seen the dyno charts and spent plenty of time on both setups, both of which were dialed. The only reason I have it now is because the PO had it done at FC. My tuner has finally got their so so setup replaced with a valving that works in the rough stuff around here.

shoein, has the suspension ever been serviced, or is it completely stock, never been apart??

for the trails we ride there is no better money spent than on a quality revalve...Forks .44 The shock? I would put all of your gear on and weigh yourself. My buddy Paul carries twice the amount of crap I do, so guessing on a geared up weight, would be just that a guess.

If you use FC or C-Cycle they know our terrain. Be honest about your speed and weight and they will do a great job.

Yep, need to have weight with gear before I could make a suggestion. Many are surprised at how much weight they carry.

Can't say I have been impressed with FC's setup however. Nothing magical about it, just a high cost...

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Yep, need to have weight with gear before I could make a suggestion. Many are surprised at how much weight they carry.

Can't say I have been impressed with FC's setup however. Nothing magical about it, just a high cost...

I live 15 minutes from FC the have treated me very well and made changes as necessary....That being said C Cycle has a very good reputation in NEngland

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I am sure they are helpful. Imho, they are overrated and overpriced, not doing anything that any other reputable tuner can do.

Anywho, i don't want to derail this thread.

Shoein, you can change the fork oil and change the fork springs pretty easily yourself. Spend some time riding it and figuring out what you want it to do better.

If you are going to revalve, start with the shock as it will drive the forks, making them either feel better or worse. That may be be the best bang for yor buck at this point. Used springs, change the fork oil, and have the shock valved.

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