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ktm 200 power valve still not working

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ok, for a while now ive been working on my 2003 ktm 200mxc that i bought this last summer. the power valve has been a continuous problem and has never been functioning properly. i just finished a top end rebuild on the bike today, and i did a power valve cleaning while the cylinder was off. everything has been cleaned thoroughly, new power valve axles, (old ones were damaged) and the clearances for the sides of the power valve to the port have been set to the manufacture's specs. the base height of the valve was also set to the specs in the service manual. i broke in the bike, and after running it for a while, i gave it a rev while looking through the viewing port on the left side, and the power valve still is not moving. at this point, im thinking my problem has to be somewhere around the centrifugal timer, and the arm is acts on. i read on here that the arm being the wear part can wear to an oval-like shape and not open the valve? just to add if it helps, when i turn the large adjusting knob on the right side of the engine, say i back it out. when i go to tun the knob back in, there is a good half a turn of the knob before it shows any movement on the valve (at the viewing port). is it possible the arm the centrifugal timer acts on is worn out? also, with the knob set where it needs to be and the aluminum cover is re-installed, there is a large gap between the copper ring and the sealing surface of the case. hope all this gives you enough information :smirk:. thank you!

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I would pull the inner cover, pull the timer, check the balls, check the arm. Sounds like it is worn. If the 125 and 200 are the same, i have an arm.

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I would pull the inner cover, pull the timer, check the balls, check the arm. Sounds like it is worn. If the 125 and 200 are the same, i have an arm.

says in the ktm manual not to disassemble the timer. unless the balls can be checked without disassembling the timer. i will check the arm im going to pull the cover right now. what exactly should i be looking for?

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looks like the part numbers are the same. motosport doesnt have one in stock though.... i have a race in less than one week from today. first race of the year, but i might not make it because of this

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It's not that big a deal to take the timer apart. On my 2000 200EXC the balls came out so that I had two balls in the space where only one ball should be. The shafts were galled so the springs didn't work. Follow GMOSS's pictorial. It is great. I took it apart, cleaned the shafts with a file and scotch brite, put it all together and it works great. My time arm looked like new. You can fix this in a night or two if you are mechanically inclined.

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the three things that would be common is (1)the linkage not being hooked up-look thru the right side cyl inspection port to see this for the fork n ball, remove the pipe to see in there: 2nd would be the control lever for the timer being worn and egg shaped or(3) the balls are hung up on the ramp. The balls slide up n down the ramp against spring pressure and with the centrifugal spin it makes the slide happen and the spring pushes the balls back down the ramp. Get it apart and this will be clear. You dont actually take the timer apart, but you remove the side case and then if neede you can unscrew the timer assy out of the case. The gap on the timer cover shouldnt be there...so it sounds like the timer is screwed too far out for the cover to bottom on its sealing surface. This too can be a sign of the egg shaped control lever tip and it has to be turned that far to get results due to the excessive wear. This comes out the front of the side case and is meshed with the timer, remove the side case to get it apart. Fit it into the slot on the timer and rotate it like it would when assembled. It should be a snug fit as you turn it, if not and it gets loose then it is worn and needs to be replaced. This wear is also a sign of having to turn the timer adjuster so far befire you get movement on the left side port and the sliding marks. Time to take things apart, but i would first look in the right side port to SURE it is hooked up correctly.

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Let me know if you need any parts. I have extra timers and an extra arm. Should be able to get them to you in time if needed. Follow Mike's advice and first eliminate the simple things. It is no big deal at to take the timers apart. The biggest hassle is getting to the timer. Be sure to loosen the timer retaining bolt behind the adjusting cover before pulling the clutch cover. This will make it easier to get off. Just make note of the sequence of washers in there when you do.

Edited by gmoss

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fixed. two of the balls on the timer had actually come out of their slots and got wedged in a position that made the timer be stuck open. all works great now. i guess its been doing this since i bought the bike over the summer because it has never run like this!!!! absolutely awesome!!!! i really like it now haha. i had made sure the arms were connected when i was reassembling the motor for a top end rebuild before. the control arm didn't look worn, so i put everything back together with the centrifugal timer fixed. thanks for the help!

Edited by nitrojoe

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very cool. that is the 2nd bike with the balls out of place recently. At least it was something simple.

Changes your opinion of the 200 doesn't it! LOL

I tell ya, I can imagine what you are feeling, the change from the 144 timer to the 200 timer was a drastic improvement, and yours should be greater.

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Have not been on TT in awhile and couldn't help to open this thread and experiencing the same issue. It ended up being the same problem as I had with the ball bearings getting stuck and holding the ramp open. Glad you got it figured out.

And as always, it's reassuring to see Mike and GMOSS helping fellow riders. They are great guys!

Edited by deeman

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agreed. the bike ran great this weekend! the throttle cable popped out of the throttle slide somehow, so i missed race one, but came back in race two and got a podium in my class in my first ever race :smirk:. i actually like this bike now haha. and running the fmf fatty 200sx pipe vs the mxc fatty works wonders on them straights

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