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I took my son to the track today to let him practice on his new 2007 150RB. It is his first time on a real bike with a clutch. I made sure it was good and warmed up but every time he would try to take off it would stall. I thought it was just him but then I tried and I could not keep it running long enough to get it to start to pull off. It was a little hard to start but not that bad until we had to restart it several times then it would have to sit for a few minutes before it would fire up. The strange part is if you straightened up the bike or leaned it a little to the right it would cut off even faster. I am thinking the carburetor needs to be cleaned. Anything else I should check or adjust? I am going to try and clean it first before trying to mess with the jets. Any recommendations if I have to go that route? Thanks.

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I did some reseach and it looks like everyone is recommending the JD Jetting Kit. Is it really that good and worth the $$$? How hard is the kit to intall, are the instructions good? I have taken appart a TT90 carburator several times with out any issues. Any tips on working on the 150R? Anyone have a write up or video? Thanks.

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Check the float level and clean out the carb. Make sure the cables are not being pulled, hot start is closed and moves freely. If this doesn't solve the problem then the TPS might be in need of adjusting/replacing (dealer visit).

Skip the kit and get yourself either a R&D bowl or a Quick Shot 3. Both have adjustable leak jet and the bowl helps with sloshing of the fuel. Your elevation on a stock motor would be stock main (138), 45 pilot and set the leak jet to 45-48. Air screw out about 1.5-1.75 turns and have the AP linkage tied. If your rider runs on the top end alot and on wide open tracks, try a 140 main to keep heat down a little. This motor is picky with the pilot and leak jets but doesn't really care on the main. Get an air screw or a remote air screw to make tuning easier otherwise your hands will get burnt adjusting.

You can change the jets without removing the carb but the adjustable leak jet will need tha carb removed. To remove the carb requires removing the subframe.

Edited by weantright

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If I install the Quick Shot 3 will I need to remove the whole carburator? Would cleaning the jets and installing QS help? At this point I am just trying to keep it running so my son can learn to ride. I am not looking for major performance improvements.

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The list I posted is a must as this bike is not set-up stock very well. In 2007 the bike was very lean and with the AP/leak jet, bog issues will be there. For you to clean the carb (good cleaning), the carb needs to come off. Remember this is a race bike and is more temperamental than a trail bike but when set-up correctly will be very consistent. Key to this bike’s performance is set-up for the rider. Take time to get it right and this bike will hold its own with any supermini on the track or be a great trail bike.

When you put the carb back on, this is when you adjust the AP squirt. With the sub frame off you now can look right into the carb. You want the squirt to happen just as the slide moves. Advoid the fuel from hitting the slide. To adjust this, remove the black side cover on the carb exposing the linkage and adjusting screw. Before you adjust the squirt, tie the linkage to the rod with either an o-ring or a wire. I like the o-ring as this will stretch if anything limits the rod movement.

Edited by weantright

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Easy question - where is the air screw located and what is the factory setting (number of turns)? I don't have a copy of the manual (I need to order one). I am wondering if it is just something simple like it needs to be adjusted a little. I bought the bike from someone that lived closer to the mountains so I wonder if it just needs a little tweeking. Starting to think I bought the wrong bike for my son to learn on. Sounds like it is a little too "cranky" for him and me.

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On the front bottom of the carb. You will need a very short flat screwdriver. Best thing to do is get the aftermarket screw and be done. Need to verify jetting and to do this is easy. Remove the drain on the bowl and check what jets you have. Also if you loosen the carb mount screws you can rotate the carb (bottom away from the header). This will let you work on the carb easier. You will need to check where the needle is set. Should be in the middle position (remove top of carb).

The bike does have power but with respect it can be a learner bike. If you plan on racing, it's a great bike to start. Just trail riding, there are better bikes out there. If you ride trails get a Rekluse auto clutch. This is a great addition as it will prevent stalling, add traction and control for the woods. My son adaptive easily to the bike from his mod KLX110. The MX class not so much!

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Thanks for all the advice. I will tinker with it tonight in the garage. Trying to do it at the track while riding, watching 2 boys and trying to teach him is not a good place to concentrate. Someone is selling a Rekluse auto clutch on here and I was thinking about it. He is not interested in trail riding but I thought it might make it more fun for him. I really want him to learn to use the clutch because not every bike will be automatic like his TTR90.

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Put it on and not tell him. Also the auto you can/will still use the clutch. Also you will need a tack for proper rpm settings and hour readings between oil changes.

If he is a short kid, get a set of small wheels.

Edited by weantright

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He is a big kid for his age. I bought the lowering link for the rear and adjusted the front fork. It is just a hair tall for him now but I will be fine once he gets the hang of the clutch and can get it moving. I bought the RB knowing it could be lowered a little for now and then raised back up. He out grew his TTR90 in the matter of months. I lugged a long 6X6 to the track to help him use as a starting block yesterday and it would have worked if it would have kept running. He was just so frustrated becasue he was doing everything right and it just kept shutting off. I am too big for it so I can't ride it to test it. I got on it just to try and see if it would engage and start to pull and I could not keep it running. It runs strong with the choke on but the idles too high to let him try with it on. I am afraid it would be unconrollable for him with the choke on.

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Choke on running = pilot jet clogged most of the time. What elevation was the mountain riding the old owner did?

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Not too much higher than I am but closer to the mountains. He was in northern MD and I am in Southern MD. I watched a video online and it looks like I might be able to get to the gets to clean without takeing apart the entire bike to get to them. If I can, I will take them out and clean them. I am just getting started learning about working on bike and things normally do not go smoothly when I work on them. I am just tring to avoid taking everthing apart. I should probably just do it for the experience.

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I am going to miss the TTR90. You take off the side panel and take out a few screws and the carburator is in your hand.

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Not that big of a job to remove the sub frame. Should be off in about 1/2 hour. Well worth it for your issues.

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My sons 2008 CRF150R had the same issues. I swapped out the slow jet for a #45 from a CRF450R and it made a world a difference. In a racing situation it didn't bog anymore however if you let it idle for a few seconds then nailed the throttle is still bogged.

His 2012 had a horrible idle(super lean) so I swapped in a #45 jet and walla problem cured. I swapped headpipe and put a #48 jet in and it runs like a champ.

Alain

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Is the slow jet the same as the pilot jet? Sounds like a #45 on the pilot helps a lot. I did take out the air filter last night and it was coated with oil that was the consistency of Vaseline. The previous owner said he just cleaned and oiled it before selling. I cleaned it 3 times, let it try over night and oiled it tonight with good oil and installed. It did start a lot better (first kick) and I was able to lean it over and pull the clutch without it cutting off. That is a major improvement. It was dark so I could not get my son out to try riding it. If I am still having issues this weekend I will go to the local shop and pick up a #45 and a thumb fuel screw. I finally found the screw and I don't see any way to adjust while the bike is running without getting burnt. Thanks.

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Yes the slow and pilot jet are the same. I use a 42 pilot w/140 main and found this to cover a wider temperture change. Cheap and easy, get both 42 & 45. The lighter the oil the better for air flow/performance but will not stop dirt as well. I use a mix of air filter and 2t injector oil, 2 parts to 1. Found that the smaller bore KLX110 would run so much better with this mix vs. streight filter oil. Still kept the intake dust free!

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Running good with the new jets. I used a 42 pilot w/140 main. He has not taken it out yet but I can already tell it is running a lot better. That fuel screw was a pain to replace. I would have been easier if I had taken the carburator off. I don't see how anyone could adjust the original. Even the extended one is hard to get my hand in there to turn. Thanks for your help.

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I got one of those $5 right-angle drives to adjust my fuel screw. It just fits in if you pull the clutch in, and rather than put the screwdriver handle on the end, I can turn the hex by hand. It works pretty well... sure, not as good as a remote screw, but it's a lot cheaper, and once it was good, I was done.

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