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New to two stroke

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I just bought a 96 rm250, bike looks great but had been sitting for a long time. Therefore I didn't even try starting the bike, figured I would clean the gas tank and pull the carb first. This was my time pulling a carb myself. It was going well and got it back together, turned the gas on, and it ran right through out the overflows. Pulled the carb again and inspected the floats, tang, and fuel needle valve (appears all metal no rubber?). Throttle needle looked ok. Put everything back together and turned the gas on and the gas ran right threw out the over flow again? What am I missing? Any ideas?thanks Eric

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floats filling with fuel?or not adjust properly.

Edited by etuke

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I'm almost positive the needlevalve needs a rubber o-ring like tip on it to seal the gas flow, otherwise the float serves to purpose and the bike would overflow (like it appears to be doing).

Heres a quick test, take of the fueline and attach just to the carb end. With the bowl off and the float and needlevalve put on, blow down the fuel line and begin to push the float up. If all is fine with the float and needvalve (which I think the needlevalve is the problem) then the valve should close and you should no longer be able to blow air into the fuel line. If the needvalve is busted, then you'll be able to blow air through it even when the float is pushed all the way up. If it isn't working, I suggest just buying a whole new float and needle valve assembly, they're not too expensive and you won't have to worry about it for a long time.

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Okay I will do so. If I make a parts order, would u suggest I replace anything else in the carb? What jets do people run with the stock pipes?

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Okay I will do so. If I make a parts order, would u suggest I replace anything else in the carb? What jets do people run with the stock pipes?

I'm not sure, that is something that is dependent on your environment. Try calling a local Suzuki shop, they'll probably be able to give you a quick breakdown of what to use.

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needle valve was not sitting correcty, little bend of the tang was all it took. thanks guys.

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well i am onto the clutch, again another 1st time adventure...plates are like sticking/dragging. broke it down and appears to be a newer clutch as the previous owner stated. basket and center are not grooved and spin freely when opened up. friction plates look like have no where and plates look perfect. when i first pulled the clutch wit the clutch cover off only the first couple plates were seperating. therefore pulled apart cleaned a bit and rubbed some transmission oil on em and put them back in. reassembled and before putting the cover on i pulled the clutch and the plates appeared to more uniformly seperate nicely. HOWEVER, there seemed to be still to much friction in there as the clutch in and out didnt really want to rotate freely from on another. back tire wanted to drag with no pressure on it, so I leaned on seat and worked the bike back and forth with clutch and pulled in trying to warm the parts and oil up which seemed to be making the clutch disengage better. put the case back on. Its about 30 degree F here and using heavy trans oil so i hoped for the best. wife called and had to go back in the house so i didnt get to really warm things up. back outside this am and clutch is not doing to much disengaging. u think a ride might get loosened up or is there a faulty part in there. i didnt go past the main lock nut cuz i dont have a clutch holder. clutch cable is operating correctly from the handle down to the release lever. i didnt know that the pushrod even came out???but it appears is does know that i am looking closer at the schematic. the push piece looks new. any definite ideas or red flags coming to mind. thanks!!!

but to answer your question....after getting the carb squared away and putting a small weld on the kick starter guide it kicked over and idled great in two kicks in 30 degree wether. just couldnt go to far without the clutch. havnt ridden a two stroke in a while so a little nervous to pop it in first and gas it with no clutch :smirk:

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Clutch probably just needs to be warmed up. Fire her up and let it run a few minutes. While warming it up and bike in neutral slip the clutch a few times to warm it up.

Then pull the clutch in and pop it in gear. Don't worry if the clutch doesn't work it will just stall.

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thanks tribal, let her warm up for a bit and the clutch loosened up just enough to drop into first without a stall or a wheelie to my arse...couple laps around the house and it was working real nice. we will see how it goes from here.

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Im confused. My bike has the same problem with dragging when cold. Why is the suzuki prone to this, but no other bike i have owned ever had this problem? what is the difference? I am going to start racing hare scrambles, and getting scared because i need to do dead engine starts.

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Im confused. My bike has the same problem with dragging when cold. Why is the suzuki prone to this, but no other bike i have owned ever had this problem? what is the difference? I am going to start racing hare scrambles, and getting scared because i need to do dead engine starts.

I know all newer clutches like to do this, as for the ones that are broken in, I'm not sure. I had an RMX 250 and it did this, you may need to change your oil, I changed mine every couple of rides religously. No need to use anything to expensive, I'd run Castrol 10w-40 and it was smooth.

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