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06 DRZ SM starting/running issues

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Hello, I have a 2006 DRZ SM with about 14000km on it. It has the 3x3 mod with the stock carb. I am not sure on the jetting(bought it used).

The bike has been running just fine through this wet and cold winter. Then we had a week of snow so the bike sat (outside but covered). After that week it was a bit difficult to start and I noticed the choke didn’t do anything anymore. I thought the battery was failing because I don’t know how old it was and my commute is pretty short (8-10 mins). Sometimes it wouldn’t even crank.

Bike left me stranded about a week later. Just wouldn’t start. Cranked but no ignition. So I bought a new battery and drained the float bowl. It started up just fine. Took it out for a test drive and pulled over after about 3 blocks to adjust my helmet. Bike wouldn’t start again. Finally got it going and it rode fine but it requires a high idle or else it will stall and it doesn’t like starting after it’s been running. I checked the oil and it has a strong gasoline smell to it.

So I suspect that the carb is a bit funky.

I plan to:

1) pull the carb- clean it

2) replace the jets

3) change the oil/filter

Is there anything else I should be doing? New spark plug? Air filter?

Any ideas of what is going on?

Thanks

Any help is greatly appreciated

Nate

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Most likely you have a worn Needle and or seat ..the O ring that is supposed to seal the seat has dried, cracked or shrunk, allowing fuel past...

A vacuum petcock can not be turned off, so it can also allow fuel to go thru and contaminate your oil..

That's why I always recommend the fitment of a manual petcock....then your just have 2 remember to turn the tap off.. :smirk:

Edited by craigodrz400sm

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So I pulled the fuel line from the petcock off of the carb and in the ON position it wouldn't stop flowing fuel(vacuum or no vacuum). So that is like what you guys said, petcock is kaput. When I go to take the fuel tank off will I just have to drain all the fluid out of the tank at the same time and then replace the petcock since I can't stop it fuel from leaking?

As far as replacement manual petcocks seems like the pingle one is the most talked about. Any other options out there?

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Of course the vacuum operated petcock shuts off the fuel. Yes it can fail but it is designed to shut the fuel off anytime the motor is not running.

Gas in the oil indicates the petcock is not shutting the fuel off as it should or has been left on PRI. Plus the float valve is leaking, most likely the $.50 "O" ring on the float valve, valve body. Not sold separately by Suzuki but can be found and replaced by size.

Some Yamaha petcocks fit and are much cheaper than Suzuki.

I don't know why the DRZ400 vacuum petcock has such a bad reputation for leaking. Vacuum operated petcocks have been common on street bikes since the 60's. The vacuum petcock on my 78 Suzuki still works fine, only the selector gasket has been changed once.

It is possible to modify and seal off the ON/OFF fuel passage and use the PRI position to fow fuel. That gives you OFF,OFF and ON but no reserve. Other more complex modifications of the OEM petcock are possible to turn it into a full manual petcock with ON, OFF, and RES.

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Plus the float valve is leaking, most likely the $.50 "O" ring on the float valve, valve body. Not sold separately by Suzuki but can be found and replaced by size.

+1 on the o-ring, even if the petcock fails, the needle valve on the carb is sufficient to hold the pressure from the fuel tank. Just tested mine last weekend, it takes a lot of pressure to lift that needle but the oring dries and cracks pretty often.

Also nobody has suggested replacing the fuel contaminated oil which is causing engine running problems.

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Does the bike have a carb heater? If it runs higher up the rev range it could be down to carb icing.

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Also nobody has suggested replacing the fuel contaminated oil which is causing engine running problems.

Don't worry I'm going to change the oil before I start her back up.

Does the bike have a carb heater? If it runs higher up the rev range it could be down to carb icing.

No the carb doesn't have a carb heater and I have not been running it in the upper rev range.

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You run the bike and it's fine when your revving it and when you come to a junction it cuts out ?

If this has only been happening since the weather got cold then it's likely carb icing, the small pilot jet freezes up as the carburettor is running the other fuel circuits, then when you come to a junction it relies on the pilot circuit to keep running which isnt operating properly.

I'm pretty sure The keihin carb is fitted with a heater, it's just a spade connector on the bottom of the carb, it should feel hot to touch.

If not I would pull the carb down and check the pilot jet, mixture settings and lastly invest in a float bowl needle valve kit.

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