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Another petcock question and airbox mod w/o rejetting

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I recently picked up an '02 S model. I replaced the vacuum actuated petcock after reading up on the probable problems I could be facing. Got it off of ebay. 2 questions: 1) Should I have installed it with the spacer that came with the original petcock? 2) Do all manual petcock fuel hose fittings face inward - making it very difficult to not kink the fuel hose/in line filter on its way to the carb?

My other question about the 3x3 mod to the airbox. The p.o. did the mod, but I have no idea if he re-jetted the carb. Is there any way I would be able to tell if the re-jetting was or wasn't completed?

I replaced the spark plug and noticed it had a bit of carbon build-up. It looked like it was the original plug, gaging the amount of corrosion at the bolt. The bike has 5K on it, so I don't know if that is a telling sign or not. I seams to hesitate or bog down with WOT even after idle adjust. Any thoughts?

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using the spacer depends on the type of petcock you have...you need a petcock that has the outlet facing down or rearward...

http://www.ebay.com....4#ht_500wt_1287

http://www.ebay.com....c#ht_500wt_1287

Undo the top of the carb to inspect the needle ...If it has multi clip positions it is a jet kit needle...JD needle will have blue or red markings...DJ kit needle will not..

Stock needle has no clip adjustment..That will be an indicator if jet kit was installed..

Look at 3min 50sec mark for needle removal

Edited by craigodrz400sm

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In order to give my carb a fighting chance aginst milk jug fuel in Baja, I finally installed a fuel filter on my DRZ yesterday. This is the only solution I could figure out for my Clarke tank to Yamaha Raptor petcock ($22 delivered from Ron Ayers) to 90 degree 1/4 inch filter to stock Mikuni carb. I used the very heavy wall Motion Pro 1/4" fuel line to resist kinks. It fits tight enough on the 5/16 petcock and carb lines that clamps are not required at all. In fact, I felt silly putting clamps on any of the fuel line barbs, but did so because it just looked wrong not to put clamps on the connections. Next time I'll probably just safety wire them.

DSCN0002.jpg

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Very few bikes get rejetted and have the float bowl reused because they are difficult to turn and the heads get messed up. What do yours look like?

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This was the petcock I installed : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRZ400-DRZ-400-KLX400-KLX-PETCOCK-FUEL-VALVE-GAS-/250806176588?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a65368b4c#ht_500wt_1287&clk_rvr_id=312200899497 . So I'm not sure I should have used the spacer.

And Jeb1962, my float bowl screws are pristine. Looks like I'll pull the carb and take a look. I'll order the JD rejet kit just in case. I was going to replace the screws with allen head bolts anyways.

Thanks for the help!

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Very few bikes get rejetted and have the float bowl reused because they are difficult to turn and the heads get messed up. What do yours look like?

I bought the TT float bowl screw kit and rejetted with the JD jet kit when I did my 3X3 mod. Following the instruction in the kit worked perfectly for me.

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