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KDX 200 or 220 for Casual Trail Riding

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Have you ever owned an E series? They eat kips valves. And yeah, both the aluminum subvalves and idler gear have aluminum teeth.The H bikes have the same aluminum gear setup on the subvalves. For some reason they don't get shredded as easily though. Better design, I guess.

I agree with juliend for the most part. The PV subvalve gears are aluminum in the E and H series. It is widely known that H series doesn't have nearly the subvalve problems of the E. I only diasgree that all E series bikes eat subvalves. Some bikes like to eat them for no apparent reason no matter what you do. I personally think it has to do with the casting of the cyclinder shifting causing misalignment/binding but have nothing to substantiate it. That being said, mine has never had a problem and look almost new. Just remember the keys to helping PV longevity IMO are regular maintenance and using a quality 2t oil.

Edited by SS109

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I prefer riding my E bike over either of my neighbors H bikes, although it could just be setup. The E engine definitely has a bit more grunt.

This is good right here. Someone who's been on both and prefers the older bike. I'd like to hear some more about the extra grunt. Both E and H bikes set up similarly? (pipes, jetting, etc.) I've seen some of your posts before and know you swear by the E model. The ergos just seem closer to what I'm used to riding.

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When I bought my first H model back in '95 I had a pretty challenging loop set up with some tough near vertical hill trails. I had been riding an 89 E model that I had bought new and was running the stock pipe. Even with an FMF pipe and aftermarket reeds the H model had less grunt for those hilly areas - I was very disappointed. I ended up getting a KDX220 and modified it with pipe and reeds to do the job for that kind of terrain.

However, the H model has a tighter-feeling perimeter frame chassis, IMO, and can be modified with USD's to be a better all-around handling bike. That's what I'm running now (a 1997 KDX200 with modified YZ125 forks). I'm kinda in the market now for an E model to see what it can do with some modern USD's - then I'll give the final verdict...LOL..no matter what, these bikes are fun.

Edited by SPUTTER

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When I bought my first H model back in '95 I had a pretty challenging loop set up with some tough near vertical hill trails. I had been riding an 89 E model that I had bought new and was running the stock pipe. Even with an FMF pipe and aftermarket reeds the H model had less grunt for those hilly areas - I was very disappointed. I ended up getting a KDX220 and modified it with pipe and reeds to do the job for that kind of terrain.

However, the H model has a tighter-feeling perimeter frame chassis, IMO, and can be modified with USD's to be a better all-around handling bike. That's what I'm running now (a 1997 KDX200 with modified YZ125 forks). I'm kinda in the market now for an E model to see what it can do with some modern USD's - then I'll give the final verdict...LOL..no matter what, these bikes are fun.

so you got a 200 then went to a 220 and are now back on a 97 200??....my 200H seems to traction flip before it gives out of grunt on those nasty hills

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LOL, then you're not getting up forward enough....

I'm talking off-idle torque...first and second gear trails where you sometimes need to back off to get around an obstacle, then hit it hard to get up a steep rise - no room to get momentum - that's where the E model 200 and the 220 are better suited than the H 200 - Don't get me wrong, for most things I like the H 200 better, but when things are slow and really nasty - the clutch usually pays the price. A properly setup 220 will stay on the pipe more like a 250, where the 200's will fade out once they start to slow - different porting/kips and smaller carb do make for a better low end bike. I've had a few KDX's, this one is the seventh over 30 years or so - I still haven't found a better all around trail bike. The last 220 I had was a torque monster, with head mods, pipe and reeds, I ended up putting a flywheel weight on it because it spun too easily right off idle if traction wasn't good. :smirk:

Edited by SPUTTER

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i frickin love my 98 kdx 220,sold my crf250x to to buy it and honestly i have way more fun on the kdx,to the OP i pretty much ride the terrain you described and the kdx handles better and puts down a better ride than crfx did and handles sand washes waaayyy better than the crfx,i ve been riding for about 30 years and have had a bunch of different rides...just my 2 cents hope it helps :smirk:

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Have you ever owned an E series? They eat kips valves. And yeah, both the aluminum subvalves and idler gear have aluminum teeth.The H bikes have the same aluminum gear setup on the subvalves. For some reason they don't get shredded as easily though. Better design, I guess. At any rate, they're easy to replace so it's not that big a deal. Better than screwin with valves on a fooper.

I prefer riding my E bike over either of my neighbors H bikes, although it could just be setup. The E engine definitely has a bit more grunt.

although they appear to be aluminum, i dont believe they are, i dont think there is a single aluminum part in an A/H kips except for the subvalve bushings. at least not in my 200, and i doubt the rest were different lol. i thought every part of the gear train in an A/H kips is case harded carbon steel. no i have never owned or messed with an E model, so the bad rap may have come from those. next time i have mine apart i am going to find out for dam sure.

Edited by hi_im_sean

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i frickin love my 98 kdx 220,sold my crf250x to to buy it and honestly i have way more fun on the kdx,

LOL, me too! I rode a CRF250x (modded up) for two years, got really bored with riding and quit for a year. :smirk: One night it dawned on me that the KDX's I rode were always fun and could go well on trails the X wasn't much fun on, so I bought a KDX and have been riding weekly since - and that was years ago.

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