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Anyone ever pull THIS stupid stunt ?

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So I get back from the dentist ( "only" $165 bucks ) then pay my car tag ( only another $60+) and decide rather than riding into town and hitting the gym, my usual Thursday routine, that I should instead check my valves.

I've only done this once before, 2-3000 miles ago. So I've got the seat and tank removed, also the plug ( changing that while I'm there) and I'm trying to get the valve hole caps off, but they're being quite the bitch to move. I finally get one, then another, but while jacking on the 3rd one, the whole thing snaps. Basically, the cap came loose from the threads, leaving the threads in the engine. All sorts of crap rushed though my head, beginning and ending with big $$$ ).

But then, I find that the threaded part also came loose, and I'm able to easily twist it out by hand.

I toss it in the trash, and decide that I may as well finish the adjustment ( turns out they were fine). Then I sart worrying about metal fragments, and I'm looking inside with a flashlight, finding nothing. Then I go to the trash can and retrieve the threaded piece I tossed, and it mates up to the cap piece PERFECTLY ( Thank God).

So, I need to hunt up another cap, and I think I'm GTG. ( Please tell me I'm GTG !! )

Edited by Brocephus

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Lol, if it aint broke, dont fix it, shoulda just went to the gym.

im hoping your GTG, id just be worried about little pieces of metal or anything that got in there. maybe try to flush it out before you start.

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If you have a magnetic drain plug or oil ring, you will be fine. The stock screens should pick it up also. Go to Ebay, get a replacement. Or, go to a dealer and get reamed.

I did something similar, but only jacked up the head of one on mine. XRs are tough as nails. Hell, you could probably throw a nail in the engine, run the oil dry and she would still pull a tank up a hill.

In know they are no longer sexy but these bikes are awesome. Simple to work on, easy to maintain, and bullet proof. Honda did it right with the old 600s and the new 650ls.

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I don't think a magnet would work, as the cap was aluminum. But as I said, it looked like the two pieces mated-up PERFECTLY, I couldn't see any missing chunks or slivers at all (Whew !! ) .

And,FWIW, there was nothing visible sticking to the oil-covered parts inside the engine that I could see.

I just ordered a replacement cap from bikebandit for about $17, plus shipping ( $24 total).

I still feel like an idiot, but as it looks right now, I'm thankful and relieved . :smirk:

Edited by Brocephus

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CycleWizard makes some cool Billit valve covers..... CycleWizard@aol.com

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I don't think a magnet would work, as the cap was aluminum. But as I said, it looked like the two pieces mated-up PERFECTLY, I couldn't see any missing chunks or slivers at all (Whew !! ) .

And,FWIW, there was nothing visible sticking to the oil-covered parts inside the engine that I could see.

I just ordered a replacement cap from bikebandit for about $17, plus shipping ( $24 total).

I still feel like an idiot, but as it looks right now, I'm thankful and relieved . :smirk:

Glad to hear the replacement wasn't too expensive... I have several spares.

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How tight were they installed last time? I put the caps on with maybe 10lbs and they're pretty snug the nexy time around. I also use a 15/16" box-end wrench for removal....not that it would prevent the thread section from breaking off.

Fun fact #391: 15/16" will fit tighter than a "proper" 24mm.

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How tight were they installed last time? I put the caps on with maybe 10lbs and they're pretty snug the nexy time around. I also use a 15/16" box-end wrench for removal....not that it would prevent the thread section from breaking off.

Fun fact #391: 15/16" will fit tighter than a "proper" 24mm.

+1. They have an o-ring so they dont need to be much more than good and snug. I use my axle wrench.

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Yep, they were all way too tight, so it was definately my fault for having cranked them down on my last valve check. And I also used a 15/16 instead of a 24mm ( mostly 'cause I don't have a 24.) I did have to tap it into place,though.

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Yep, they were all way too tight, so it was definately my fault for having cranked them down on my last valve check. And I also used a 15/16 instead of a 24mm ( mostly 'cause I don't have a 24.) I did have to tap it into place,though.

If you think about it, you only have to tighten them enough to keep them from coming loose and falling off. They aren't sitting in oil... they get oil splashed on them, but the o-ring will keep that under wraps.

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My rule of thumb is if it has a o-ring just snug it down the o-ring will only crush so far, And if it has a gasket torque it to specs.

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I don't think a magnet would work, as the cap was aluminum. But as I said, it looked like the two pieces mated-up PERFECTLY, I couldn't see any missing chunks or slivers at all (Whew !! ) .

And,FWIW, there was nothing visible sticking to the oil-covered parts inside the engine that I could see.

I just ordered a replacement cap from bikebandit for about $17, plus shipping ( $24 total).

I still feel like an idiot, but as it looks right now, I'm thankful and relieved . :smirk:

You, Sir, are correct. Hence the reason mine also snapped a little off. Maybe i should have paid more attention in science class.

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