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Just got an 07 RMZ-250 Am I In For a Treat or a Disaster?

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Well like it says i sold my 04 CR250 my baby which never let me down and always ran strong. But i wanted to try a 4T. I got a 07 RMZ-250 in pretty good condition. Is there anything I need to watch out for? Any common problems, do's/dont's? Anything to keep an eye on, and did i get a reliable bike?

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lets see some pic's, Check all the normal wear points. i am new to the RMZ family but it seams like most bikes that you need to check your chain wear guide under the front of the swing arm. Check out my rebuild of the one we picked up a few weeks ago here http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/937546-new-to-me-my-son-2008-rmz250-pics/ ours was in pretty bad shape and not taken care of.. Hope yours is in better shape

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Ill have to try and get some pics up later, yeah i saw your build you got a good deal for 1500 even if u did need to do that work. I am just nervous now b/c there is small puffs of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust this morning when i first started it up and blipped the throttle, i know it hasnt been ridden in a while, but i also know blue smoke can mean burning oil meaning worn rings. :smirk:...if this thing goes down im screwed and wont have the money to fix it.

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do a compression and a leak test. it will help you determine if it is the valves or the rings. cheaper to replace rings etc now before it gets worse.

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make sure you have the updated shift detent spring, aspecially on an 07. Either the uptaded 250 spring or the 450 spring. Most all suzuki's smoke, at least the ones I've owned have. There cylinders seem to wear heavy in the front on the exhaust side due to the crank angle. One thing that I've done to both of my sons bikes is to have the cylinders replated by Millinium tech. It made a big difference in compression, and I've never seen another puff of smoke. good mod in my experience. And a good pipe system will open up the top end on that one (Yoshi) :smirk:

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Could someone please tell me the stock jetting and maybe the valve clearance specs? Im gonna inspect everything tonight.

One question i have is my bike when i am just barely on the throttle lets say putting around it will like surge, Like if i hold the throttle just barely cracked and do not move it my bike will like start to pull then kinda fall on its face, and pull, then fall on its face, but just when im barely on the throttle. First 4 stroke so dont know much about jetting on these but does it sound like a pilot problem maybe to lean?

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Main jet :178

Idle Jet :40

Pilot opening 1.75 turns Float level : .315"

Intake valves .09 -.16

Exhaust Valves .17-.24

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Well i got to finally ride my bike this weekend checked the valves all in spec except for one exhaust valve is barely on the limit prob going to wait a lil longer to adjust because it starts fine and runs fine. One thing i did notice is i am getting some mis-shifts. Either between 1-2 or 2-1 im hitting neutral which i guess is a common problem in these i have seen. Is this because of weak or improperly working detents you spoke of and i need to update them to the 08-09 250/450 ones?? I dont understand because finding neutral has proved to be difficult in this bike whether it be idling, or off and trying to find neutral to start it. Is this also because of the detents or is there further problems causing me to hit neutral.

Next question is the oil screen located inside of the 12mm bolt on the side of the case behind the shifter? I tried getting mine off to check the screen but of course some nimrod tightened it to the nth degree and rounded off the bolt meaning a box end wrench wont grab it and a socket off course wont fit since its behind the frame. Looks like ill be ordering another bolt and having to use vise grips or other means to loosen it.

third and finally, could having too lean of a pilot cause me to have that minor surging when im barely cracked on the throttle putting around in lets say 1st or second? It will like accelerate and then fall on its face then accelerate again but only when the throttle is Barely cracked?

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My son races a 07 RMZ 250 B class One thing you need check is the clutch for broken fiber plates.The 07 is know for this.The fix is to put in the 2 big clutch washers from an 08 which the 07 did not have.No problems after that.The bike really handles like a dream!

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Well i got to finally ride my bike this weekend checked the valves all in spec except for one exhaust valve is barely on the limit prob going to wait a lil longer to adjust because it starts fine and runs fine. One thing i did notice is i am getting some mis-shifts. Either between 1-2 or 2-1 im hitting neutral which i guess is a common problem in these i have seen. Is this because of weak or improperly working detents you spoke of and i need to update them to the 08-09 250/450 ones?? I dont understand because finding neutral has proved to be difficult in this bike whether it be idling, or off and trying to find neutral to start it. Is this also because of the detents or is there further problems causing me to hit neutral.

Next question is the oil screen located inside of the 12mm bolt on the side of the case behind the shifter? I tried getting mine off to check the screen but of course some nimrod tightened it to the nth degree and rounded off the bolt meaning a box end wrench wont grab it and a socket off course wont fit since its behind the frame. Looks like ill be ordering another bolt and having to use vise grips or other means to loosen it.

third and finally, could having too lean of a pilot cause me to have that minor surging when im barely cracked on the throttle putting around in lets say 1st or second? It will like accelerate and then fall on its face then accelerate again but only when the throttle is Barely cracked?

in respect to your tranny issues, accidental finding neutral between 1st and 2nd is obviously expected if you do not shift positively... otherwise, provided that the gear doggs are not damaged, you can do the following:

-the stock shifter is SHORT, this causes clumsy shifting for anyone with larger feet. buy a LONGER shifter

-swap the detent spring for the 450 spring (part no. 25355-28H00) this will provide more cam retention on the drum (more positive shifting with less a chance of getting between gears and damaging the gear doggs).

-the RMZ's gearbox is relatively unchanged since its two stroke days, which required a GEAR grade oil in the tranny side... using a thicker oil EXPONENTIALLY reduces wear on tranny components, but since the motor now shares the sump, a good compromise can be found with a 15w-50 or even 20w-50 SEMI-synthetic oil.

unfortunately there is no real way to tell if there has been damage done without getting it appart... maybe try the above mods ($70 MAX) then see if the problem persists

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The updated springs etc are on the way, and i will be changing the oil with a 15w-40 rotella to help w/ wear i just had a spare bottle of 10w-40 and needed to change it so i used that. I know its not a case where im finding neutral because of poor shifting because i will hit it all the way up and still hit neutral and have to re hit it to get it into 2nd. You speak of a longer shifter. What would be an example of a longer shifter?

And what are these clutch washers spoken of above that the 07 didnt have?

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interesting symptom. haven't yet experienced it myself, but it almost sounds as if the shift cam is not actuating properly. when you do your detent spring mod, double check the shifting hardware (retaining bolts, cam, etc...) for play.

hammerhead makes a shifter with a longer (or shorter) tip that comes in 5mm increments. depending on the size of your foot you can buy a longer shifter to give you room to get your foot underneath the shifter.

i believe the conical washers otherwise known as "judder" springs, mentioned above, are used to further dampen drive-line shocks in the clutch pack (they go in a certain way) the 08 rmz250 had these, but unsure if the 07 had them. but the stock oem plates are weak anyway (especially the 26 pad fiber plates found on 450's). after-market plates are usually stronger and eliminate this problem.

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I wear a size 10 A-star boot, what would a good size shifter be?

Also, so your saying an aftermarket clutch kit would help prevent the shattering of the plates? I do notice right when i start my bike up if i dont revv it up or let it roll a little bit if i drop it down into 1st it will jump and cut off when i drop it into 1st. Also if i rev the bike in gear with the clutch in will pull a little bit. Once warmed up its not so bad of a problem. Does this sound like a synmptom of a bad clutch?

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i wear size 10 A star Tech 10's and havnt had an issue on rmz- 2007-2010 with missed shifts caused by boots. So you should be ok

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i wear a size 8 boot and am fairly comfortable shifting in them. but compared to an 09 rmz250, the shifter is roughly 5mm closer to the peg, and i can imagine someone having issues getting their foot underneath it in rushed "racing" circumstances. or maybe you just have to get used to it, i personal HAVE had boot related, or rather "shifter" related missed shifts. i decided to change my technique and ive got a feel for the shifting now.

as for you clutch, when the bike sits for a while, its clutch pack will strain the oil out from between the friction and drive plates. when you first start your bike and go to put it in gear its a good idea to maybe actuate the clutch a few times and roll the bike as you put it into first.

now, if the bike is creeping as you give it gas and you have the clutch fully disengaged then you will most likely have a "toothed" clutch basket (grooves worn into the clutch basket from the friction plates). what happens here is that the plates fall into these grooves and do not fully seperate from each other causing a "partial-engagement" situation. you can file them down if their not too bad, but you shouldn't have more than 1mm of play between the friction plate and basket contact.

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Ok yeah thats what a friend told me. I have ordered a new clutch covergasket so i can get in there and check it out. thanks for all the help!

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