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Fuel Injection Mapping

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Just got a 2010 and I'm new to fuel injection, What are are the factors you can change on/about your bike that could possibly affect the bike enough to require re-mapping?

Thanks

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By changing the map, you can change the way the power gets applied to the back wheel at different throttle positions to a individual riders liking.

Say you may want to retard the ignition and richen the mixture for better traction on slick tracks or amp it up for heavy ones.

or

Tune it at your local Dyno for max HP with your fuel / pipe / engine work

You can change standard map up to +/- 20% fuel richness and +/- 2 degrees timing increments at 5 different throttle positions if you have or get hold of a programmer.

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By changing the map, you can change the way the power gets applied to the back wheel at different throttle positions to a individual riders liking.

Say you may want to retard the ignition and richen the mixture for better traction on slick tracks or amp it up for heavy ones.

or

Tune it at your local Dyno for max HP with your fuel / pipe / engine work

You can change standard map up to +/- 20% fuel richness and +/- 2 degrees timing increments at 5 different throttle positions if you have or get hold of a programmer.

I bought my bike recently from a very experienced rider who had it professional tuned to the current engine setup. But I'm probably going to replace the 14.2:1 compression CP piston with an OEM piston when it comes time for the rebuild. Would that merit a re-map?

And thanks for the reply, somehow I didn't get a notification that you did, or I would have replied sooner. But oh well.

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I bought my bike recently from a very experienced rider who had it professional tuned to the current engine setup. But I'm probably going to replace the 14.2:1 compression CP piston with an OEM piston when it comes time for the rebuild. Would that merit a re-map?

And thanks for the reply, somehow I didn't get a notification that you did, or I would have replied sooner. But oh well.

I wouldn't think dropping the compression ratio a little need a major re-map.

Like I was saying before, the best benefits of a re-map is the changes to the way the power is applied at different throttle positions.

The power characteristics with a lower compression ratio piston would be slightly more over-rev and slighly less mid range..

Fine tuning on the dyno still can get the best high RPM power out of your motor with the fuel your using (if your current map was designed to maximize the benifits of High Comp piston and High Octane race fuel).

Have fun working it out.

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when changing the plug in (to richen or lean with the white, grey or black) . do you do it when the bike is not runnging? just simple as un plug and plug the new one in?

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when changing the plug in (to richen or lean with the white, grey or black) . do you do it when the bike is not runnging? just simple as un plug and plug the new one in?

I think the lean and rich couplers plug on top of the standard coupler(Black). i don't think you can take off this standard map. I'm sure you can program the standard map obviously, but I think it's just built in.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

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ya i havent even looked at it. My bike hasnt even seen dirt. Seems like its a tad ridiculous that it takes about 15-20 kicks for a fresh bike to fire up. Thinking maybe trying one of the couplers to either richen or lean it to assist it. I have even bumped the idle up as well. been riding rmz 250fs for a while all have them have typiclly started within 1-5 hot or cold. just wondering if you started the bike then put the coupler in. or do you put the coupler in while its off?

Edited by ontherev164

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ya i havent even looked at it. My bike hasnt even seen dirt. Seems like its a tad ridiculous that it takes about 15-20 kicks for a fresh bike to fire up. Thinking maybe trying one of the couplers to either richen or lean it to assist it. I have even bumped the idle up as well. been riding rmz 250fs for a while all have them have typiclly started within 1-5 hot or cold. just wondering if you started the bike then put the coupler in. or do you put the coupler in while its off?

Mine hasn't seen dirt yet either sadly...got it like 2 days before i had to pack up and head back to school 600 miles from home. haha

But I see what your saying about installing the coupler, and if it did require the bike to be running while installing it, the manual would probably note that,and it doesn't really say anything like that.

Let me know if the couplers help the your bike start easier.

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You can change the ignition and fuel settings on the fly (while it's running) with the Suzuki MX tuner.

Changing to either switch plugs seems to only change the fuel map settings equivalent to only maybe one jet change (+/= 3%)

What we did, was use the rich plug that came with the bike in the spares kit - for a number of reasons;

racing in Sand, Sea Level 0mM altitude, @30 DegC temp, <50% Humidity and to stop the bike running flat on the top end.

Then add more fuel with the after market programmer to suit Aussie pump fuel and the bikes current mods..

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You can change the ignition and fuel settings on the fly (while it's running) with the Suzuki MX tuner.

Changing to either switch plugs seems to only change the fuel map settings equivalent to only maybe one jet change (+/= 3%)

What we did, was use the rich plug that came with the bike in the spares kit - for a number of reasons;

racing in Sand, Sea Level 0mM altitude, @30 DegC temp, <50% Humidity and to stop the bike running flat on the top end.

Then add more fuel with the after market programmer to suit Aussie pump fuel and the bikes current mods..

Thats what i mean im at sea level and the stock map just seems to be starving of fuel to get it to go. Maybe that extra % of fuel will assist it.

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