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01 drz400s will start, but not using the starter

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hello,

so i bought this bike a week ago, with 19,300 on it. it started up fine this morning, and ten miles later after i stopped for gas. after riding about 20 miles more the bike wouldn't turn over, i could do a hill start but the starter would not turn. i noticed that the dash thing would tweak out and reset if i turned on the blinker. the previous owner said he replaced the stator once and the voltage regulator twice. any idea what i could try with out tools?(my kit is locked up at school ATM)

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hello, just an update. got the bike to school, charged the battery and checked it with the midtronics. battery was still good so i put it back on the bike and checked the entire charging system with the midtronics. the bike showed no diode ripple, and no charging voltage. so my stator is fried. i double checked with my volt-meter. voltage regulator passed current only one way, and the three yellow stator wires showed continuity, when tested on the crank-case, and no reading between the individual wires.

im just double checking that i got it right, i litterally learned all of this today and had to get help from my instructor most of the time.

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Yep, your stator is dead. Its a 20 minute job to replace it, blue loctite on the stator bolts or they'll loosen and destroy stuff.

I like rickeystator for there customer service and fast shipping. About $130 shipped iirc.

DO NOT BUY A HIGHER WATTAGE OUTPUT STATOR. They always end up problematic.

Lay the bike on its right side and you won't have to drain the oil.

Change oil every 1000 miles and the stator will last longer.

Make sure your cooling system is working well, fan included. Stators hate heat.

Also, the stock light helps burn off excess voltage. Don't disable it unless the battery is suffering to start the bike momentarily.

Post up when you fix it. :-)

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thanks for the help you two, also, i just ordered one of rickys stators five minutes ago :smirk:

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Yep, your stator is dead. Its a 20 minute job to replace it, blue loctite on the stator bolts or they'll loosen and destroy stuff.

I like rickeystator for there customer service and fast shipping. About $130 shipped iirc.

DO NOT BUY A HIGHER WATTAGE OUTPUT STATOR. They always end up problematic.

Lay the bike on its right side and you won't have to drain the oil.

Change oil every 1000 miles and the stator will last longer.

Make sure your cooling system is working well, fan included. Stators hate heat.

Also, the stock light helps burn off excess voltage. Don't disable it unless the battery is suffering to start the bike momentarily.

Post up when you fix it. :-)

Just a note, Information from Ricky Stator REP.. They do not currently sell a Higher wattage stator for the DRZ.. Once upon a time they did, no more,, had some issues with reliability, so they dropped it from the line.

You'll notice, there is only one in the product page

http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/suzuki-drz400-stator-assembly-models-p-532.html

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Do the Free Power Mod and also check the connections to the fuse and the location where the fuse plugs into the main harness. Corrosion at those points without the free power mod will cause charging and electrical supply problems.

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just another small update while im waiting for parts(good GOD i hate hawaii), pulled the old stator out yesterday in preperation, several of the copper windings look like they where litterally burned, the insullation(i dont know what else to call the coating) looked dark brown, like darker than copper. also the suzuki dealership that allegedly did the repair last time did not locktite the stator bolts :smirk: .

will semi-synthetic oil be okay for the stator? and im guessing ill have to use some kind of rubber sealer to re-seal where the new stator wires will go through, what should i use?

sorry for the edit, but i had one more quick question, what should the torque specs be for the stator bolts and case bolts?

Edited by etofun

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The best oil is full synthetic oil intended for motorcycle use. Semi is OK but not the best. 20W50 prefered over 10W40.

The stator bolts are 5mm into a magnesium casting. Best advise is tightem securely. If you have an accruate inch pound torque wrench, 40 to 50 inch pounds.

You should not need any sealer on the rubber grommet.

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there was no rubber grommet on my bike :smirk: , just a hole bunch of rubbers sealer stuff

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Oh. The new stator will come with a rubber grommet on the wires. A small amount of RTV would not hurt but it should not need any.

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