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Cam journal and cap condition. Pics

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Installing Hotcams this morning and noticed this on ex cam. Can I do anything about it? There is a little chunk of aluminum sticking out (pic1, left side). Should I try to file it off very gently?

'How bad is this? Do I need start looking for new head? Surfaces are relatively smooth and scoring isn;t deep enough for a finger nail to feel it

Thanks

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I have put it back together like that before against my will and the bike ran but it was a time bomb, you can clean it up and then use plastigage to measure the clearances and compare to the service manual

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remove the burr.

if surface is smooth enough to were your nail doesn't catch you're golden.

assembly lube and run good oil in there.

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Thanks for quick reply gentlemen.

I got this bike used so not sure what previous owners used. DRZ has only 5k miles on the clock according to odometer but again, odometer cable had score marks on it from pliers so it could be disconnected prior for 30k miles for all I know.

I use Rotella T6 (JASO MA) in all my bikes and cars (diesels). How is DRZ with synthetic oils? Should I switch it?

Is it bad idea trying to polish the are a little with 2000 grit or aluminum polish slightly?

Edited by zaq123

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Sign of oil statvation. Remove the burr. Don't bother to polish. Looks OK.

Rotella T6 is good

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Sign of oil starvation.

Concur

Remove the burr. Don't bother to polish. Looks OK.

Concur

Rotella T6 is good

Good enough in any case.

As noted, that damage is a sign of oil starvation.. the question is why? and what have you / will you do about it.

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the question is why? and what have you / will you do about it.

any tips would be appreciated.

Concur Concur Good enough in any case. As noted, that damage is a sign of oil starvation.. the question is why? and what have you / will you do about it.
Concur Concur Good enough in any case. As noted, that damage is a sign of oil starvation.. the question is why? and what have you / will you do about it.

It looks like design isn't the best on EX journal oil passage. I'm not an expert but it looks like IN side is much better design. On Ex side oil has to go through small gallery area between cap and saddle and this area is also been blocked by cam cap bolt. Checked the oil passage it there is no blockage of any kind.

BTW, IN side is nice and smooth and oil to EX journal appears to be routing through the same passage. This EX right cam journal is the only spot with the damage on the head .

Any tips?

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any tips would be appreciated.

It looks like design isn't the best on EX journal oil passage. I'm not an expert but it looks like IN side is much better design. On Ex side oil has to go through small gallery area between cap and saddle and this area is also been blocked by cam cap bolt. Checked the oil passage it there is no blockage of any kind.

BTW, IN side is nice and smooth and oil to EX journal appears to be routing through the same passage. This EX right cam journal is the only spot with the damage on the head .

Any tips?

Have you owned the bike since new?

Have you ever run it low on oil?

Severely over heated it?

Had the clutch basket out?

Check the oil pump plastic idler gear, remove the oil pump and check is, and the cavity in the case.

If good, put it all back to gather, start and check oil flow from the check bolt, back side of the head, 10mm hex head. at idle you should have a nice constant dribble. Not much oil pressure at that RPM.

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Have you owned the bike since new? Have you ever run it low on oil? Severely over heated it? Had the clutch basket out? Check the oil pump plastic idler gear, remove the oil pump and check is, and the cavity in the case. If good, put it all back to gather, start and check oil flow from the check bolt, back side of the head, 10mm hex head. at idle you should have a nice constant dribble. Not much oil pressure at that RPM.

bike was purchased used. I did have the clutch basket out

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bike was purchased used. I did have the clutch basket out

Umm, ok then you really need to check the oil pump and gear then.

If your not aware.. that plastic gear is fractured easily if smacked with the clutch basket upon re install.

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Umm, ok then you really need to check the oil pump and gear then.

If your not aware.. that plastic gear is fractured easily if smacked with the clutch basket upon re install.

thank you sir. I'll pop the cover off and take a look.

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It needs just a little wiggle and gentle massage and it will practicaly fall into place. The damage happens when a little too much force is used instead of gentle persuasion to get the gears to line back up. The PLASTIC oil pump gear suffers and once that plastic gear doesn't spin...

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Umm, ok then you really need to check the oil pump and gear then.

If your not aware.. that plastic gear is fractured easily if smacked with the clutch basket upon re install.

didn't take it apart yet, waiting for the gasket. But hae a question:

Is there an efective way to inspect this plastic gear without removing clutch basket or clutch should come off?

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Yes you can inspect the gear with the clutch in place. Rotate the motor to inspect the full circumference of the gear for missing teeth.

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Yes you can inspect the gear with the clutch in place. Rotate the motor to inspect the full circumference of the gear for missing teeth.

That plus,, if it failed causing the lack of oiling on your top end.... it will be obvious, as teeth or larger parts of the gear will be missing.

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May be worth checking the oil screen in the frame downtube.

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Thank you for these tips. Although I will defenately check the oil pump, I think I have pretty good idea where this damage came fro:. PO had oil vent box removed :smirk: . It was actually the first thing I installed on the bike as soon as it got of the trailer

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Thank you for these tips. Although I will defenately check the oil pump, I think I have pretty good idea where this damage came fro:. PO had oil vent box removed :smirk: . It was actually the first thing I installed on the bike as soon as it got of the trailer

??? So your thinking what,, it was run out of oil? thats really the only thing I can think of the oil vapor recovery tank might have to do with the damage in the pic you posted.

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??? So your thinking what,, it was run out of oil? thats really the only thing I can think of the oil vapor recovery tank might have to do with the damage in the pic you posted.

maybe not runout but was loosing substential amounts of oil between oil changes (at whatever interval PO was changing the oil). When I picked up the bike, the whole motor was covered in oil where PO routed the hose from the valve cover.

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maybe not runout but was loosing substential amounts of oil between oil changes (at whatever interval PO was changing the oil). When I picked up the bike, the whole motor was covered in oil where PO routed the hose from the valve cover.

well anything is possible.. The head is the end of the oil system chain, pressure wise, after that is it dripping down to the oil sump.. So loss of pressure effects the cam journals for sure.

Check the oil pump idler gear, and oil pump (including the oil pump cavity in the case) . use a mirror on a stick and a flash light or fiber optic camera to check the oil pump pick up screen in the case, make sure it is not covered with crud. Check the frame tank screen (the one on the oil line).

If all that checks out, button it up, add fresh oil, remove the oil check screw on the back of the head, start the motor as Idle you should have a strong dribble, if you have flow there, pert the screw back and go run it down the road for a few days.. if your interested, remove the seat, tank, valve cover, CCT and cams, and check the condition if no worse... your golden.

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