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Trail Tech X2 Wiring Questions (Bigger bulbs, etc.)

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Hi, all.

I have ordered the X2 off road headlight, and like many others, I want to put a higher wattage bulb in the lower reflector (high beam).

I have already wired up a relay system for my bike and I have used 12 gauge wire to get the power directly from the battery to the light and then back to ground. All the other wires I have (to the relays) are 16 gauge.

My question is about the wiring on the X2 itself. Will I need to beef up the wires that go from the X2 plug to the bulbs? The existing wire looks like 16 gauge (I haven't seen it up close yet). Does it make any sense to run 12 gauge to the X2 and then have higher gauge wire between the connector and the actual bulb?

If I do need to beef up those wires (which is easy to do), should I beef up the wires to the low beam bulb as well? After all, I will only be running a bigger bulb in the high beam. The low beam has wires going right into it (not spade connectors like on the H3 high beam bulb), so I wouldn't be able to change the entire length of wire on the low beam anyway (there will be some higher gauge wire left in the bulb casing).

Finally, what is the best way to make the stock light switch (on the DRZ) make both the low and high beam go on at the same time (on the high beam setting)?

OR...would I be better off just getting a larger halogen bulb for the high beam and keeping the regular high/low operation of the switch. If so, what is the maximum wattage you would run in the high beam (considering I will have beefed up wires). I don't want to melt the case and I want to use the plastic rock guard.

Thanks for all the help.

Edited by Mr. C

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i just installed the hid kit off ebay with the slim ballast.i think it was 40 bucks for two?but i have had that installed for 2 seasons now and it is bright as day and really lights up the night and hasnt failed me yet.plus the bulbs got a nice warranty on them

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No, you do not need to upgrate the X2 wires. Resistance is relative to wire size and length. The short runs of wire are not enough of a problem to justify replacing with larger wire. You can check voltages when you have it wired up to verify.

HI/LO on at the same time?--- I need to know more about your relay sustem. 1 relay or 2? (1 for each beam) 1 relay you must be runnnng power thru the original HI/LO switch and those smaller wires. If 2 relays, then the original wires are just the relay controls so no power lost to the bulbs. If 2 relays, jumper the HI and LO relay control wires together with a diode in the jumper wire.

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i just installed the hid kit off ebay with the slim ballast.i think it was 40 bucks for two?but i have had that installed for 2 seasons now and it is bright as day and really lights up the night and hasnt failed me yet.plus the bulbs got a nice warranty on them

I may consider that in the future, but I have heard there are some issues with the HID system when in rough terrain. I will stick to the halogen for now.

No, you do not need to upgrade the X2 wires. Resistance is relative to wire size and length. The short runs of wire are not enough of a problem to justify replacing with larger wire. You can check voltages when you have it wired up to verify.

HI/LO on at the same time?--- I need to know more about your relay sustem. 1 relay or 2? (1 for each beam) 1 relay you must be runnnng power thru the original HI/LO switch and those smaller wires. If 2 relays, then the original wires are just the relay controls so no power lost to the bulbs. If 2 relays, jumper the HI and LO relay control wires together with a diode in the jumper wire.

Good to know about the wires on the X2 unit itself. I at first wasn't going to worry about it, but then started to over think it. Thanks for setting my mind at ease.

I have two relays (one for each beam). I am having a bit of trouble understanding the diode placement. I understand they are one way. Let me see if I get the diode idea: I run the jumper between the control wires before the relays, with the electricity flowing from the HI control wire allowed to go to the high beam AND low beam relay (through the diode). The diode direction will only allow the electricity from the LO setting control wire to go to the low beam relay and NOT the high beam. Do I have that correct? Can I solder the diode from control blade to control blade directly, or should I do it mid way on the control wires? (I guess that will depend on relay position once I get it all done up). The X2 has some wells that I assume take the ballast for their HID setup. That may be a good place to keep the relays. I will need to see what's what when the light comes in.

Is there a particular rating of diode I should get? I don't know much about them.

Finally (sorry about all the questions. I am trying to learn this stuff), how much draw can those wires handle? I will leave the low beam at 35 watt, and was thinking of a 55 watt for the high beam. Will 90 watts draw too much for the system? I will only use the dual bulb setup during night events. Most of my riding is during the day so it won't be needed.

Thanks again for all the help.

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12 gage wire is more than sufficient to power both bulbs at the same time. Again you can check voltages in operation to verify. The relay control wires carry very little current so no problem there. Diode placement is correct. I would put the diode in a wire so it is easier to deal with and/or modify. A diode that will carry 1 amp at 12 volts will be fine since it is just the relay control current.

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12 gage wire is more than sufficient to power both bulbs at the same time. Again you can check voltages in operation to verify. The relay control wires carry very little current so no problem there. Diode placement is correct. I would put the diode in a wire so it is easier to deal with and/or modify. A diode that will carry 1 amp at 12 volts will be fine since it is just the relay control current.

Excellent! Thanks for the info. Now I just have to find a diode! I am just not sure how to check the voltage to verify. What type of values am I looking for?

Finally (I promise!!), should the ground wire be 12 gauge as well, or will 16 gauge work for that?

Edited by Mr. C

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Ground wires carry the same current as the supply wires so use the same size. 12 is probably over kill. 14 is good.

Checking voltage drops - voltage at battery vs voltage at load. example: 12.8 at battery 12.4 at load. Voltage drop 0.4 volts.

Or check voltage drop on the wire itself - 1 probe at at battery pos, other probe at the load pos. reading of 0.2 volt is the voltage drop in the pos wire. Do the same for the neg wire, add the 2 results, that is total voltage drop for the particular load you are investigating.

Headlights like to see 13 volts under operating conditions. If you can keep the total voltage drop to the load under 0.5 volts, that's good.

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Thanks, Noble. That makes sense.

Now I just have to wait for it to warm up so I can do the work!

Thanks for all your help on this. :smirk:

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I put in two 55w H3 bulbs, will I have electrical issues because of too much draw? Right now I'm running hi/low separate like stock, need to figure out how to make both on with the Hi switch...

Edited by Dizle

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I put in two 55w H3 bulbs, will I have electrical issues because of too much draw? Right now I'm running hi/low separate like stock, need to figure out how to make both on with the Hi switch...

Not sure about the draw yet. I will be using a 55 W high beam and leaving the low as a 35 W (for now). The whole deal with the diode that Noble is talking about is to get both lights on while the switch is on the high beam setting.

Once I get all my parts, I will take some pictures of the set up. It won't be pretty, but it just may work!

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18 gauge would be good for 90 watts. I'd use 16 gauge because it is pretty close to what the drz has, although drz wire is measured using a metric system. I don't see any reason to use a relay system or 12 gauge wire. 12 gauge wire is 3x's the size of 16. Make sure the insulation you are using is a good enough grade to handle rubbing and won't crack from heat and age.

Two 55 watt bulbs should be okay if you never let your bike idle for long or use the starter much. It would be very borderline.

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18 gauge would be good for 90 watts. I'd use 16 gauge because it is pretty close to what the drz has, although drz wire is measured using a metric system. I don't see any reason to use a relay system or 12 gauge wire. 12 gauge wire is 3x's the size of 16. Make sure the insulation you are using is a good enough grade to handle rubbing and won't crack from heat and age.

Two 55 watt bulbs should be okay if you never let your bike idle for long or use the starter much. It would be very borderline.

I am using the relay system that I fabbed up for my KLR. Using the relay system made quite a difference in the brightness on that bike (since the power was coming directly from the battery). I figured it would be the same for this bike. I also don't want too much electricity through the switch. The stock system may be able to handle it, but I have the basic harness already, so why not?

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Relays and 14 gage wire makes perfect sense. You will notice an improvement in light out put over 18 gage. 2 55 watt lights work fine. 35 and 55 are fine, no problem. Yes merteric system uses a different system to measure wire, not gage sizes but who cares? Yes you have to increase wire size a lot for a little improvement. I would not go 12 gage but 14 is pretty easy to deal with, I like marine grade wire and terminals.

If no relays are used in a systen with a diode to power up the LO beam on HI, the LO beam full current is thru the diode and the diode will create about 1/2 volt loss. So whats the point. Want more light, you need full voltage, you need relays and heavy wire.

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Good info thanks guys!

Swapped out to 55w bulbs and the low beam is just meh, not very bright but neither was stock.

High beam is awesome, shoots out a good ways but I'm not sure if it'll blind oncoming cars.

Is everyones low beam on the X2 just kind of ok? It seems like the the reflector manipulating the light, not the cutoff. Low and high beam is a HUGE difference.

Love the look of the light! I don't ride far at night so light output isn't much of an issue but it would be nice if the low beam had more light.

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Good info thanks guys!

Swapped out to 55w bulbs and the low beam is just meh, not very bright but neither was stock.

High beam is awesome, shoots out a good ways but I'm not sure if it'll blind oncoming cars.

Is everyones low beam on the X2 just kind of ok? It seems like the the reflector manipulating the light, not the cutoff. Low and high beam is a HUGE difference.

Love the look of the light! I don't ride far at night so light output isn't much of an issue but it would be nice if the low beam had more light.

I am assuming you have the Dual Sport version with the clipped beam? I have the off road, but haven't had a chance to test it. Like you, I don't ride much at night, so the low beam is just for being seen in the day. I am more interested in the high beam being strong. Hopefully I can get a good result.

Noble: I need to extend the wires, so I might as well replace it all with 14 gauge. It would then be easier to route and work with. 14 should be good enough for the power lead and ground? I understand that the relay controls don't need to be to beefy, so I will keep the 16 there.

Thanks again for the help and suggestions from everyone.

Edited by Mr. C

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Ya I have the DS, low beam is clipped which is nice but it alse seems like the light is pretty dim despite the 55w being in there.

The high beam is great, I think I have it aimed low enough but still might go back to the 35w in this one because its crazy bright. Kind of wish there was a better way to aim the lights other than the pin system

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Ya I have the DS, low beam is clipped which is nice but it alse seems like the light is pretty dim despite the 55w being in there.

The high beam is great, I think I have it aimed low enough but still might go back to the 35w in this one because its crazy bright. Kind of wish there was a better way to aim the lights other than the pin system

How about making a pin system that will slide in and out and then tighten in position using a wing nut? Hard to describe here, but I am thinking of a few ideas. I like being able to raise or lower the lights when out on the trails. I will show you what I come up with once I have it.

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I finally got to the installation of my X2. I positioned it much higher than most people, but it looks good to me and it is a bit different than the other installations. I can now carry a small bag with my tubes in it below the light. I also repositioned the computer. It works well for me (and I know many people won't like the look).

I put a 55 W bulb in the high beam. I modified the dual relay system I had from my KLR and installed a diode between the control wires to make both high and low come on at the high position.

I didn't make a sliding pin set up, but I can aim the light by adjusting the bracket that attaches to the bottom of the X2 light. I will need to set the position after I ride a few trails.

I like the light output and having the relay system with the heavier wires makes a difference.

Here is my setup:

light1.jpg

light3.jpg

light2.jpg

I needed to get a speedo cable extension to reposition the computer. 20 bucks from Ebay.

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What's the light output like on it? Is it $90 better than the stock? I was debating on this or some nice LED driving lights.

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Its not $90 better than stock but IMO the updated look is! It its better than stock no doubt about that, I could get a $50 HID kit on the stock set up that would beat this but I couldn't stand the rectangle.

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