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06 450exc Won't E-Start Cold

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Whats up evryone, so I purchased a dualsported 07 KTm 450exc this past fall and have been having this issue since when I bought it. When hte bike is warm it e-starts beautifully and quickly, but after the bike has had time to sit 2 days in my garage the magic button will not start it. Usually depending on how cold it is it will fire with the kicker after 1 or 2 kicks and then after my 4 mile jaunt to work it will fire right up with the button, and likewise, after the 8 hours at work it will fire right up as well.

When I purchased the bike it had no battery, so I bought and installed het factory 5L-BS, and was experiencing said issue with it. I read on the forums that it is recommended to go to a YTZ7S due to higher CCA (130 compared to 70) and that will fix my problem. I was finally fed up with the 5L-BS not starting my bike cold so I warrantied it and bought a Ballistic brand Litium Ion Battery that boasted 235CCA. I installed it on a 30 degree morning and the bike fired to life without hesitation, but then after it sat for 2 days and I tried to start it again, and it did start the bike, but you could hear the starter turn over at about half the speed as day 1 (once the bike ran 5 mins and was turned off it fired to life in the blink of an eye).

This leads me to believe that there is a draw on the system while the bike is not running, and I was even advised that it could be a faulty Voltage Regulator or even an upgrade Stator would fix this problem...If anyone has experienced or heard of the same issue and have a solution to offer then please help, or even if anyone has any opinions on where my power draw could be coming from and how I might fix it I would greatly appreciate it! I really don't want to blindy and randomly start replacing stuff, so that is why I figured I would come hear and hope there are others more experienced that can lead me in the right direction :-)

As far as the bike goes, it has the oem headlight and speedometer assembly and the only thing that was change was the addition of turn signals, horn and a control switch. ther are no grips heaters, no upgraded lighting etc.

Thanks in Advance Guys!

Edited by KDub32

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The cold weather is certainly a component of the hard starting. There is a current thread in the dual sport section of the D-37 forum on this exact subject only his bike is a 525 instead of a 450.

I have never had starting problems with my '07 525 even with the smaller stock battery. I have let it stay outside in 20 degree weather and it started just fine in the morning. I have 9500 miles on my bike and have only replaced the battery once at about 6500 miles.

I would think the first thing would be to check your actual battery voltage both with and without the motor running. Voltage of a charged battery should be about 12.5/13.0V and with the motor running it should be showing something like 14V.

I don't know anything about the Ballistic lithium batteries but the thread on the other site mentions that they need to generate some heat to bring them up to max voltage. Cycling the starter a few times supposedly will accomplish this.

A bit more specific info might help others that might have more input.

What engine oil are you using?

Battery voltage?

Charging output voltage?

Do you show a change in voltage with the key on/off?

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A bit more specific info might help others that might have more input.

What engine oil are you using? Amsoil 10w40 synthetic, just put in last night and I don't know what the previous owner used but it didnt look very good when I took it out

Battery voltage?

Charging output voltage?

Do you show a change in voltage with the key on/off? no key, it is an 06...my bike can be turned off and I can hit a blinker or horn and htey work, so this is what leads me to believe there is a slow draw

and i haven't gotten a chance to check any voltage readings, because I have just been really made aware that this is not a battery problem, hence the reason I am trying to probe into what the root of hte problem may be

Thanks, I will check those voltages ASAP and please any other inputs are greatly appreciated!!!

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i had similar problem with my 06, but adjusted the valves and cleaned the carb. After that, starts right up even on a cold mountain morning. Maybe look into cracking the throttle a little more or less when cranking.

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i had similar problem with my 06, but adjusted the valves and cleaned the carb. After that, starts right up even on a cold mountain morning. Maybe look into cracking the throttle a little more or less when cranking.

Actually I have had the carb about prob about 5-6 times and have thoroughly adjsuted and cleaned it..WHen i bought the bike I had idle issues and was dead set it was a carb adjustment issue, well...until I deceided to check the valves and found out hte intakes were as tight as could be, so I I adjsuted the valves adn then it started up cold and idled like a champ.

My problem lies in that, when the bike is warm (or at least started within 24 hours) it starts and cranks perfectly fine, but after it has sat usually 2 days and is cooler out it cranks SLOW when starting, as if the battery has lost charge to the point where it wont even turn it over sometimes. When this happens the bike still kicks fine and turns over fine...This leads me to believe it is not a fuel issue but something is just stealing charge when the bike is not running

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My friend had the same issue with his Xr, so he installed a quick connect in the line to disconnect when it sat. Never had a problem with it again. Do you have a cooling fan installed?

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I had the same issue with the stock battery. I went to a Shorai lithium and have never had an issue since. The RFS stator does not put out a huge amout of exrta power for charging the battery. After a day a slow technical trail I get home with low battery. I charge it fully after each ride but do not leave it on a battery tender while parked, this is not good for lithium batteries.

You may still have a weak battery. Do you ever put it on the charger? An easy way to test for a constant load is take the positive lead off the battery and touch it to the battery in low light. You will see a spark if there is a load on the circuit.

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How many miles does it have?

Poor cold weather starting is the first symptom of leaking valves. Mine did the same with a lot of miles. Rebuilt the top and I can haul it in freezing weather to the riding area, knock the frost off and kick start it several times. Doesn't hurt ot try a cheap, easy fix first.

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no radiator fan and the bike has 2700 miles, 115 hours...I did a voltage test and it was something like 12.5 when idleing and over 14 when revving it...I can ride the bike 4 miles to the gas station after a cold start and it will start like a champ after filling up, so that lead sme to believe that the sator is charging the bike fine.

I just had the valves checked at my work by our KTM mechanic, and the intakes were stuck open and exhausts were in spec. I got that fixed and it corrected my cold idle issues, but the cold starting issue still remained. I suppose it could maybe be low in compression, as I havent checekd that yet, but the bike runs like a champ once it's running though.

I do think my solution is going to be to add a toggle switch in line with the battery's positive cable, so that when I know it will be sitting for a day or two I can 100% cut allpower/drain from the battery...That would also act a an antitheft sort've, as the bike does not have an ignition switch being pre 07 (factory dualsport), so I could flip the toggle if I know I am parking in not so great of an area lol

any more comments or questions please keep them coming!

Edited by KDub32

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Clean all your cables real well and put a bit of Dielectric grease on the connections.

The ground wire goes to the aluminum subframe and this may be your problem as the subframe then bolts to the steel frame and then to the motor. Not the best way to ground something. The aluminum to steel connection is perfect for building extra resistance to the flow. Typical soap for cleaning your bike works into the connections and adds to the corrosion. Clean all the subframe mounts and motor mounts.

I run an additional ground cable directly to the starter ground.

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+1 on the additional ground to starter

OK, so I am not very good with elctrics etc, so let me get this straight....Do you guys really think that an extra ground to the starter, or lack there of in this case, would case a constant draw draining my battery when the bike is not running?

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Obviously adding an extra ground to the starter won't cause a weak battery to miraculously become stronger. I would think the reason for the additional ground is simply to provide a better ground path to prevent any loss of voltage.

Does the battery show less voltage after it has been sitting for a couple of days? If so, I would go thru and systematically disconnect every electrical component (lights, horn, turnsignals, etc.) until I found out what is draining the battery. Adding a cutout switch may help in the short term but it is only a band-aid until you find out the real problem and fix it.

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UPDATE: OK first off I highly doubt I have a bad battery, if so I got 2 bad ones in a row...

now for the update, it was cold enough outside today to freeze the hickies off a brass monkey, so I didnt spend much time in the garage but I wanted to see what type of draw I may have on my battery.

I hooked up a multimeter to both the positive and negative terminal on my battery (which has not been touched for 4 days, since Tuesday) and it read 13.5v not running...I then disonnected the positive cable and attatched the multimeter to the positive cable and the positive terminal on the battery. That showed a reading of 12.5v but just a mere 9mA......

seeing as there is pretty much a lack of draw on my battery this leads me to believe that I very well may have a ground issue, either battery to ground or just a shorted/grounded wire somewhere in my electrical system maybe?

Any thoughts?

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Trying a direct ground to the starter seems like an easy step.

If that doesn't help, try another starter. The problem could simply be the starter itself. You could try cleaning the commutator inside the starter and taking a look at the brushes. This site (http://www.stockers....x.php?dt=RBK-61) might be helpful if you need to rebuild the starter.

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KTM E starters don't like the cold.

Kick it cold and when it's warm the button will work again.

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******UPDATE***

Alright, first off, sorry for the week off, but I did get a chance to tear into hte bike this afternoon.

My draw on the battery was an alternating/flickering 7-9mA, so that kinda sparked my interest towards turnsignals..I did however just decide ot be methodical and start unplugging everything 1 by 1 until the draw wasn't present. This included horn, turn signals, rectifier, speedo etc....well nothing seemed to kill the draw until I got to the flasher. When I unplugged hte flasher the draw when form the alternating 7/9mA draw to a steady 1mA (which I am assuming would be normal draw for the speedo/clock)

So it looks like the flasher is casuing my problems, but the turn signals work perfectly, so my question now is do flashers go bad and still function properly (how can I test a flasher to be good?) or might this behavior and draw be normal???

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