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Another oil question (dr650se).

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I've been using the sythetic blend 15w-50 Motul oil since I got my dr650se brand new. I'm wondering if that is too thick of an oil... The way I figured it, I drive like i stole it almost everytime I get on it so the thicker oil would help with my abuse. However after doing alot more research about oil I'm not so sure this is the case. The thing that get's me is that it's not like the manual says not to use the oil infact it's still within the range of ambient tempurature year round where I live. So to sum it up, is 15w-50 too thick and detremental to my engine and why if it is.

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Well, everyone has an opinion on oil. My DR has 35K+ miles on it and has seen only dino oil, mostly 15W-40 (Delo or Walmart ST).

I think synthetics may provide added protection under abusive conditions, so use what makes you comfortable. Personally, I don't think 15W-50 is too thick for the DR since it is air/oil cooled.

Tom

Edited by tomit

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Well, everyone has an opinion on oil. My DR has 35K+ miles on it and has seen only dino oil, mostly 15W-40 (Delo or Walmart ST).

I think synthetics may provide added protection under abusive conditions, so use what makes you comfortable. Personally, I don't think 15W-50 is too thick for the DR since it is air/oil cooled.

Tom

I agree. I use 15-40 Rotella in all our bikes and cages. No problems. You using a synthetic oil and your given temps, and how you ride I think its a smart move.

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I've been using the sythetic blend 15w-50 Motul oil since I got my dr650se brand new. I'm wondering if that is too thick of an oil... The way I figured it, I drive like i stole it almost everytime I get on it so the thicker oil would help with my abuse. However after doing alot more research about oil I'm not so sure this is the case. The thing that get's me is that it's not like the manual says not to use the oil infact it's still within the range of ambient tempurature year round where I live. So to sum it up, is 15w-50 too thick and detremental to my engine and why if it is.

Motul is an excellent oil. No worries on the W15-50.

Keep in mind the Motul oil your using has an optimal range it works in ... indicated by it's rating: W15-50. The W stands for Winter. So, in Winter temps you've essentially got a 15 weight oil in there. When things get very hot this same oil acts more like a 50 weight oil.

The original Motul 5100 semi syn had a real Esther package. Not sure if the the current Motul has a true Ester package or not. The current Motul is made in Los Angeles. The original was imported and looked very different than the current Motul. I discontinued using 5100 after about 5 years using it when this change was made. But many riders still swear by Motul. I also switched to save money. Wall Mart has super good sales on Mobil One.

For my DR650 I've found Mobil One car (not motorcycle specific) oil works just fine. I'm at 50,000 miles, 30,000 miles on the Mobil One. Not all pure synthetic oil is good for your DR650's wet clutch. Standard Mobil One is NOT GOOD because it contains friction modifiers. I use the Mobil One designated : High Mileage or Extended Use. Neither has friction modifiers. Clutch is holding up perfectly.

I also mix the Mobil One oil with Chevron Delo mineral oil ... about 60% Mobil One, 40% Delo. This probably sounds crazy ... but just how I like to do it. No scientific basis for it really ... just fairly good results among five bikes running this oil combo. The main thing to do .... ALWAYS ... is have clean, fresh moisture free oil.

The Delo is W10/40 weight. Even though I could go more miles ... I generally change oil every 3000 to 3500 miles ... or when oil becomes very opaque.

The last time Wal-Mart had a sale on Mobil One (five liter jugs) they were about $22 each. (!!!!) I bought 4 jugs. The per quart cost ends up very low. I buy the Delo at CostCo and use it in other vehicles also.

Edited by 54321

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Awesome thank you all, special thanks to the post before this one... I never woulda thought the W standed for "winter" I'll be honest with you... I thought you were full of crap, however, I did my research and it does infact stand for "winter"... Who woulda thought? Anyway this takes a load off my mind.

However, would it be better to have a lower number in the slot before the "W?" Or is it the other way around? I read on the the "Bob is the oil guy" (go there and read if you want your mind blown about oil) site that the lower number before the "w" means the quicker the oil is going to get to the correct thickness. However the way I understand it the bigger the second number the slower this stuff flows, but keep in mind that that second number is at the tempurature that radiated cars run at... and I'm sure my motorcycle runs much hotter but is it hot enough to adequatley heat the oil enough to flow correctly? Sorry if any of that's confusing.

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The DR's oil is shared by the engine and tranny. I've been told that the gears in the tranny tend to chew up the viscosity improvers that thicken the oil as its temperature increases. So, I feel more comfortable with an oil that has 15 as the lower number than one that has 5 as the lower number. I change the oil every 3000 - 3500 miles and could use a 5W40 oil but would feel the need to change it more often. I'm too cheap to do that.

Tom

Edited by tomit

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Just curious as to what your thoughts are on Suzuki oil. I use the 10w40 as suggested by the manual and change every 1000 to 1500 miles. If these other oils you are discussing are better I will change.

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Suzuki oil, made for and sold by Suzuki, is designed for there engine needs. It may not be better than other oils, but if Suzuki will warranty their engines using it, it has to be OK.

Art

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I'm a fanatic when it comes to oil changes on my bikes. I simply like the feel of the gear box with fresh oil. Because of this I change my oil every 200 miles or less. Insane I know. In vehicles I put a lot of miles on I use Synthetic oil so I can skip oil changes. With my bike and vehicles that I change oil often and well under recommended levels I use regular oil.

To me this is a very simple and senseible approach. Way too much is made of the oil debate since modern oils are so darn good. Keep it changed when need be and the whole debate is a mute point.

The weight oil your using is just fine, I've been running it and I ride very hard by DR standards.

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Because of this I change my oil every 200 miles or less. Insane I know.

Yes quite insane! :bonk: IMHO a complete waste of money and good oil. Why would you do this. :smirk:

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You could do it the other way around as well: I know of Yamaha XT 500 and SR-models with more than 100.000 km (62 k mls) that never got an oil change. The owner just replaced what was missing. And the engines ran well and were still unopened at that time.

Presumably both accesses to this topic are extreme - be it never to change or to do it every 200 miles. The latter would mean two oil-changes for hardcore tourers per DAY ...

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200 miles on a oil change???????.......that's way too long (I own many shares of various oil company stocks :smirk: ). Doesn't synthetic oil get just as dirty just as quickly as conventional oil?

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200 miles on an oil change? These aren't like the crazy 60 hp 4 strokes on the MX track. I think I'll stick with 3000 miles on Rotella :smirk:

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Like I said, it's insane, I know this. But I ride very hard and my bikes spend a good amount of time in a couple feet of water while riding the trails around my place. Oil when used in such small quantities is pretty damn cheap so changing it once a month is a nonissue.

Plus you guys did miss the most obvious reason of all for these oil changes. Get home from work, eat dinner, spend a little time with my wife a daughter then it's straight out to the shop where the music gets turned on, the heat gets cranked up and a cold beverage finds its way into my Hammer Run beer huggy. If I could I'd be in my garge/shop wrenching every night. Serenity now!!!!!d2e89a2e.jpg

Edited by Dentman67

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Get home from work, eat dinner, spend a little time with my wife a daughter then it's straight out to the shop where the music gets turned on, the heat gets cranked up and a cold beverage finds its way into my Hammer Run beer huggy

OK now I get it! :smirk:

And anytime you go through THAT much water, I totally agree that changing the oil is cheap insurance.

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Loving to spend time in your garage and using your DR as a submarine: How often do you regrease your wheel/shock bearings???

Good point! Lots of guys are anal (or insane?) about various things ... but then either through laziness, fear or ignorance ... neglect a lot of other crucial routine maintenance. In a couple years their beloved DR craps out, they take it to the Suzuki dealer and get nicked for a boat load of money for repairs a 14 year old could have done. So many guys I see don't even have their bike set up correctly. Things like bars, grips and controls are not always right. Cables and wires are mis-routed, loose or worn.

I used to have 8 bikes ... three of them vintage British bikes over 30 years old. They drove me crazy. Lots of work constantly. I'm down to three and struggle to keep up. I only change oil when it's needed. But I try to balance things and do ALL THAT IS NEEDED in a timely manner.

Also, we see unbelievable neglect among Long Distance Adventure riders. It's like some of these dudes never even look at their chain or sprockets. Don't have a clue about wheel bearings, linkage bearings, or head bearings. So somewhere in BuTT-crack Bolivia everything stops ... and they blame the Suzuki! :smirk:

Then come oil change time they use the local cheap oil. This is a crap shoot too. Not all oil world wide it equal and many don't contain the fantastic additive packages even our cheap oils have in the USA.

Your life depends on your bike being safe and reliable. 300 mile oil changes are just plain stupid. I rode AMA District 36 Enduro for about 8 years ... Just one DNF in dozens of races. So much more to it than oil changes.

Edited by 54321

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I see know one has addressed the issue of zinc. Specifically the lack of it these days. I have just been through a premature cam/rocker replacement. A long story was mentioned elsewhere here somewhere about that. (alas, during the recent forum upgrade....)

I found out (not by the MSDS from Castrol either, but rather on another forum) that the oil I have been using, Castol Activ 4t 15W-50, does not have any zinc additive. Zinc is essential for the older style sliding friction surfaces. With the advent of friction modifiers, pneumatic valves or roller rockers, the zinc has been deleted. This leaves many of us in a dillema. Favourite brands may have to be re-assessed. I've done a lot of research and the oil companies are very quiet on the matter. Having just replaced said sliding/moving parts, I now need to order a couple of oil filters to flush and bed in the new parts, I will ask the Suzuki people exactly what oil's aint oil's.

Cheers,

Chris.

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I see know one has addressed the issue of zinc. Specifically the lack of it these days. I have just been through a premature cam/rocker replacement. A long story was mentioned elsewhere here somewhere about that. (alas, during the recent forum upgrade....)

I found out (not by the MSDS from Castrol either, but rather on another forum) that the oil I have been using, Castol Activ 4t 15W-50, does not have any zinc additive. Zinc is essential for the older style sliding friction surfaces. With the advent of friction modifiers, pneumatic valves or roller rockers, the zinc has been deleted. This leaves many of us in a dillema. Favourite brands may have to be re-assessed. I've done a lot of research and the oil companies are very quiet on the matter. Having just replaced said sliding/moving parts, I now need to order a couple of oil filters to flush and bed in the new parts, I will ask the Suzuki people exactly what oil's aint oil's.

Cheers,

Chris.

Check out the diesel truck oils MOST of them have zinc and Rotella T 15w-40 even has the JASO-MA certification.

Edited by -Jake-

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Check out the diesel truck oils MOST of them have zinc and Rotella T 10w-40 even has the JASO-MA certification.

Note that it is the Rotella T 15W-40 and T6 5W-40 that have the JASO MA certification.

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