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02 KX250 KIPS powervalve timing

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EDIT: Now that I know the correct way this is supposed to look, I wanted to make sure nobody puts their powervalve together wrong by just lining up the grooves/gears only. You must check to see that the valves are in the correct positions. My sub-valves needed to be turned one tooth toward eachother to be in the correct position. Please see the pictures in post #14 to see the correct timing of the valve. The pictures in this post are incorrect.

Hey guys,

Me again. Decided to make this a new thread to help people find info on the powervalve if they ever search for it.

I am putting my powervalve back in the cylinder. I want to make sure this is right.

With the butterfly valve all the way closed, I put the drum valves in the bottom of the cylinder with the notched gears at 12 o clock facing the exhaust side and lined up the grooves in the rod accordingly.

IMG_1026.jpg

IMG_1033.jpg

Here are the drum valves with the rod fully pushed in.

Now its hard to tell in the picture, but they are not sitting flush against the cylinder wall, they stick out about a mm.

IMG_1036.jpg

IMG_1035.jpg

and here is what it looks like through the side port with the rod all the way pushed in: (appears fully open)

IMG_1037.jpg

With the butterfly valve open as far as it will go, the side ports are barely on the brink of opening:

IMG_1041.jpg

and when i pull the rod with the spring back as far as possible:(valves are not fully open and flush with cylinder wall)

IMG_1046.jpg

did i do something wrong?

Edited by jkenney177

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thats how mine went back together,I questioned it myself but I had the service manual and followed its steps and thats how mine ended up.

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hmm i wonder if the marks are just off for some reason. i think if i turn the side valves in 1 notch toward eachother it would be right.

if i pull the rod out a tiny bit, i feel like this should be the correct position of the side valves when the rod is fully closed:

IMG_1039.jpg

Edited by jkenney177

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I did not use the manual. I just kept clocking the two valves until they would open fully and closed.(be sure you have the check plug in place so the rack stops where it should). It was trial and check...After I had them orientated to what I believe was correct. I then set the top rack and center valve. I then double checked everything again. There is some play in the gears and rack so keep double checking everything.

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I do it like Blackwoodz does it and it kinda looks like you are a tooth off in the pics.

Ed

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I did not use the manual. I just kept clocking the two valves until they would open fully and closed.(be sure you have the check plug in place so the rack stops where it should). It was trial and check...After I had them orientated to what I believe was correct. I then set the top rack and center valve. I then double checked everything again. There is some play in the gears and rack so keep double checking everything.

I do it like Blackwoodz does it and it kinda looks like you are a tooth off in the pics.

Ed

ok i'm gonna just do it the way it looks right, it seems like everything is working perfect its just a little bit too closed when the rod is pushed in and when it is fully open, there is just a tad bit more it could go to be flush with the walls.

i'll definitely post up some pics when i get it right

thanks guys

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sometimes without installing the 2 round discs and 'C' shaped one on the bottom of the cylinder you can get some play and they won't look correct actuating by hand. Install those and hold the cylinder upright to check action. Use the round disc on the side where the governor arm rides in, not the main valve arm.

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sometimes without installing the 2 round discs and 'C' shaped one on the bottom of the cylinder you can get some play and they won't look correct actuating by hand. Install those and hold the cylinder upright to check action. Use the round disc on the side where the governor arm rides in, not the main valve arm.

i installed the discs and had the cylinder upright in the photos, i just had them out to show where the teeth were in the first couple pics.

i still think i need to adjust the side valves, but i will double check and post back up with the results when i get home.

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my side valves were not fully open when the main was open,push it a lil further and the spring on the main valve would compress and the 2 side valves would open fully.It didn't look right to me at the time too but thats how the manual said to time the valves so thats how I left them.It works fine but to me it puts alot of stress on the side valve with two gears as that what turns everything and it has to compress the main valve spring.If you do it different and have the 2 side valves open fully with the main let me know how it works out as I would have preferred it to have went together like that and next time I take off the cylinder I will time it like that.

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I do it by sight as well. If I do it by the book they aren't fully open and closed when actuating the rod. Been that way on mine since 02.

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I do it by sight as well. If I do it by the book they aren't fully open and closed when actuating the rod. Been that way on mine since 02.

good to hear! i will do it by sight and take a picture of where the teeth are when its in the correct timing.

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+1 by sight

Just did this on my '99.

When I followed the directions and lined up the notches, the right (when looking at the cylinder upside down) valve would not close fully. Moved it over a tooth and it looked good. Runs good too.

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The 02 does have abit of a 2 stage opening with the spring on the shaft. The idea was to open the center valve all the way with the side valves only about half open them as you rev abit more the side valves fully open, I think they were trying to smooth out the hit. I think you will get it.

Ed

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So here it is how i think it should be: (sorry some pictures are sideways, even if you rotate the images and save them and then upload to photobucket, they dont stay rotated? also tried rotating them on photobucket but when i link them, they are still sideways :smirk: )

instead of lining up the short gears to the grooves in the rod, i turned them both in 1 tooth toward eachother:

IMG_1052.jpg

IMG_1053.jpg

with rod pushed in all the way:

IMG_1054.jpg

IMG_1055.jpg

main valve fully open (side valves about half open):

IMG_1056.jpg

and main rod pulled as far as it will go on the spring (side valves fully open):

IMG_1057.jpg

i'm feeling more confident about this setup.

what do you guys think?

Edited by jkenney177

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so this is the most it opens to these side cavities? if the bike was sitting and you take the side cover off this is what it should look like right? about half open? i'm just wondering why kawasaki would make these holes that big if it never opens completely.

IMG_1054.jpg

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thats how mine went back together,I questioned it myself but I had the service manual and followed its steps and thats how mine ended up.

etuke, you may want to take your top end off and change your valve timing if yours looks like mine did in the 1st post. It is probably taking away from your top end power since the side valves are not fully opening and will probably affect your low end power as well because the resonator chambers are open more than they should be at low rpm.

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when its time for a top end I will do it your way,its not worth it right now.The bike has plenty of power for my needs.

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just wondering how the bike runs with the kips timed the way you said,I now have my top end off and have timed them like yours but theres still time to change it back if it dosen't run good like this.

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