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2009 WR250F Headlight Removal

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Has anyone taken the headlight off the 09? If so any issues and what did you do? I have been searching posts but still confused. Is there a yellow wire that needs to be disconected from the Regulator? Sorry Confused :smirk:

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I have on an 04. They are still the same system. If your bike starts acting weird and a misfire after headlight removal there is two options you can do, you can either wire in a resistor equal of the resistance of the bulb itself or disconnect the yellow wire before it goes into the regulator. Some people have not had any problems at all and very few have reported problems. Removing the wire does not effect anything but remove power from the lighting circuit including the rear light. There have been guys that wanted to keep the taillight but ditch the headlight and the taillight constantly blew out afterwards. In that case a resistor instalation is required.

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Thanks for the heads up. I would like to keep the rear light for now so I guess I won't take the chance and just ad the resistor. Do you happen to know what voltage resistor I would need?

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I have an 09...pulled the headlight (and tail light)...no resistor/no issues.

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Did you just unplug from directly behind the lights? Did you just end up taping the wires then? Also while on the lights, what front # plate did you go with and did you have to do any mods? I have a UFO plate coming next week. Did you keep the stock rear fender also? Thanks

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I removed the headlight wires from the OEM connector, sealed them in black shrink tube then taped them into the OEM harness (I removed the computer as well). As for the number plate, I've tried two different number plates. At first I used the generic Cycra plate that zip ties to the forks but once I confirmed that the bottom OEM clamp is the same as the 09 YZ I installed the 09 YZ plate.

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...this is the build sheet on my 2009 WR:

SDG Dual Stage Gripper Seat

Leo Vince Full Ti/CF Exhaust

Fastway F6 Footpegs

ARC Levers

Motion Pro T-3 Cables

G2 Billet Throttle Tube

Pro Taper Grips

Renthol Blue Anodized 50 T Sprocket

Kenda Millville’s

Kenda Tuff Tubes

No Toil Air Filter

Flexx Handlebars

Enduro Engineering Disc Guard

Bolt Axle Blocks

GYTR Rear Brake Master Cylinder Guard

T.M. Designworks Chain Guide

Cycra Probend Hand guards for Flexx bars

Hyde Racing Skid Plate

Samco Sport Silicone Radiator Hoses

JD Jet Kit

YZ throttle Stop w/Free Mods

YZ Number Plate

YZ Fork Guards

Works Connection Rear Brake Caliper Guard

Primary Drive Gold X-Ring Chain

Fastway Case Guard

Unibiker Radiator Guards

Excel Takasago Rims-Black

Motion Pro Rim Locks

Talon Blue Anodized Hubs

Braking Rotors

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Thats a super clean plate mount. I have an 09 i just picked up, and i would like to set it up close to yours. You should throw up some more pictures of your bike!

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Thanks for the pics and info.. What a great looking mod and your bike sounds awesome you should post some full pics. I will try the same and when I ordered the # plate it states it should mount up so we will see. If not, off to get a 09 YZ plate. Thanks again for the info..

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...ok, here are some pics of it. I usually have it race team clean post ride but last weekend was a mud fest...AND it was dark and 25 degrees when I got home so it was best effort on the clean up.

I have nice new vinyl coming for it...numbers, etc. so I'll repost when done.

I did the work myself and have learned a bunch about this bike along the way...yell at me if I can help.

Sorry to hijack your thread!

-John

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Edited by VB997

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That is very well done. Like Swede said those black wheels and blue hubs really look great on that bike. Thanks for sharing your pics!

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So I'm guessing you made that mount for the top number plate bolt and ignition switch yourself? Because that's the cleanest one I've seen while still using the stock upper clamp.

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So I'm guessing you made that mount for the top number plate bolt and ignition switch yourself? Because that's the cleanest one I've seen while still using the stock upper clamp.

…I did make it. It’s just a piece of aluminum plate that picks up the bolt points from the OEM computer bracket location on the underside of the OEM WR top clamp. The 2009 OEM YZ number plate comes with an aluminum spacer on the underside of the plastic tab that mounts there. I made my standoff height tall enough so the spacer on the number plate meets it at the right height when the number plate mounting bolt bottoms out. I didn’t have the correct height standoff to get it all at once that’s why there is a nut first. As dumb luck would have it, the nut was just the right thickness and it acts like a lock nut for the through bolt. I used red loctite on the through bolt going into the standoff and torqued it pretty good. I did have to cut the through bolt slightly to allow the top bolt coming through the number plate tab to run all the way down into the standoff. As for the ignition switch, I modified the OEM plate that comes on it and fit it to the new aluminum plate I made. Additionally, I left a void between the front side of the top clamp and the back side of the ignition switch to route the two throttle cables and the power wires for the starter button. If you don’t do that what happens is when you cut the bars hard to rider’s left they will slide behind the number plate and get hung up on the ignition switch. So leave enough void to create a “cable trough” that allows the cables to move freely without causing an abrasion to the cable sheath but tight enough to “capture” them between the back side of the ignition switch and the front side of the top clamp. Obviously, it’s not pretty, but it works and it’s strong enough to do pull ups on (LOL). Finally, one more thing to consider. When you do the standoff on the plate be mindful of how far back you go towards the front side of the top clamp. If it’s too tight there you won’t be able to get your hand between the number plate and top clamp so you can turn the ignition switch on and off. As a reference, I’m 5’11 and 160 lbs and I can just get my hand in there. If you’re a big guy you may want to push the standoff out (away from the clamp) to give yourself room to press the ignition switch with gloves on etc. Be aware if you go too far out the side profile of the number plate where it meets the clamps/forks will not have that factory YZ look and you will be able to see the harness/wiring behind the plate.

FWIW, I had originally planned on getting the top YZ clamp so that I could work out the number plate mount with OEM parts but as it turns out that would have created a second problem…how/where to mount the ignition switch and how to route the cables (which is an even bigger problem than the number plate mount). I have a much more professional solution I may do that has the correct height standoff welded to the plate and then it’s all powder coated or anodized…

…my apologies for being so wordy and once again hijacking this thread! J

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Did you just unplug from directly behind the lights? Did you just end up taping the wires then? Also while on the lights, what front # plate did you go with and did you have to do any mods? I have a UFO plate coming next week. Did you keep the stock rear fender also? Thanks

Yes, my rear fender is the OEM WR original fender...I just removed the light and the small harness assembly.

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This will be interesting. I am planning on keeping the computer. Just waiting for the plate to arrive so I can see how much of a project I have ahead of me. Yours looks so nice but like I said, I want to keep the computer. Do you know anyone who did this and how?

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