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2010 top end rebuild

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ok guys so i got 50 hrs exactly on the bike i change my filter every ride and oil every 3 rides first time tearing into a 4t so looking for some help/advice/knowladge

Is this normal wear on a wrist pin?

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Normal for 50 hrs?

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thanks in advanve just waiting for flywheel puller to change cam cain then all back together with oem parts!!!

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ya man thats very average looking for 50hrs. have you jetted your bike? while your at it you should clean you valves theres an article in twmx about it. obviously reshim it too. your wrist pin has normal wear for oe. on the new one put motor oil on it on reassembly tho bro!

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ya man thats very average looking for 50hrs. have you jetted your bike? while your at it you should clean you valves theres an article in twmx about it. obviously reshim it too. your wrist pin has normal wear for oe. on the new one put motor oil on it on reassembly tho bro!

thanks man and yes i have the bike jetted properly i dont know if ill take the valves out of the head but i have had to shim them at all still all in spec!!!!

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sweet sounds like you have a good set of parts. cant hurt to clean the valves though. tusk makes a spring compressor for 30$ n u can regrease the stems on reassembley. what gaskets are you using? i always use permatex hitack on gaskets its in a spray can cones out red it really bonds those surfaces so theres no chance for leakage if using " cheap gaskets"

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sweet sounds like you have a good set of parts. cant hurt to clean the valves though. tusk makes a spring compressor for 30$ n u can regrease the stems on reassembley. what gaskets are you using? i always use permatex hitack on gaskets its in a spray can cones out red it really bonds those surfaces so theres no chance for leakage if using " cheap gaskets"

gonna be using oem gaskets

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Hey that looks good for 50 hrs. I have the '12 dual injector system on my '11 and I have a leaner look to the piston (less carbon) although I am running stage 2 cams and the stock map so that could be part of the leaner looking carbonization. I also have a loudmouth intake filter that flows more air. I am at 5000ft so I kind of figured all of that would sort of balance out. I may need to borrow the FI Calibration Kit and do some slight enrichment.

As for the the wrist pin, it seems the lightened wrist pin (shorter) along with the box section of the Kawi piston leads to a little less oiling on the pin than with other designs. They did round off the edges of the box around the pin area of the piston a little bit on the '12 part and I think that helps get more oil to that very important part. My '11 piston has the box that covers up the wrist pin more and mine looked more like the ends of your pin in the center section. The center, where all the rotation is happening, looks pretty good on yours. Even though the chrome had worn off most ly on my pin, it did still measure in the range of good given in my service manual. I am putting in a new OEM piston right now as well. I ordered the '11 piston and maybe I should have got the '12. Oh well.

One thing I noticed that got me thinking about the pin and box section stuff is that the big bore kit I had in my bike, which has a vertex piston without the boxed pin area, had a new looking pin when I removed it. I have a DLC pin that fits most 250F's, just not the OEM piston that comes on our bikes. It is a lightened design that is a few mm shorter in length.

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part are arriving today and tomrrow the build will start ill put some pics up later!!

Hey that looks good for 50 hrs. I have the '12 dual injector system on my '11 and I have a leaner look to the piston (less carbon) although I am running stage 2 cams and the stock map so that could be part of the leaner looking carbonization. I also have a loudmouth intake filter that flows more air. I am at 5000ft so I kind of figured all of that would sort of balance out. I may need to borrow the FI Calibration Kit and do some slight enrichment.

As for the the wrist pin, it seems the lightened wrist pin (shorter) along with the box section of the Kawi piston leads to a little less oiling on the pin than with other designs. They did round off the edges of the box around the pin area of the piston a little bit on the '12 part and I think that helps get more oil to that very important part. My '11 piston has the box that covers up the wrist pin more and mine looked more like the ends of your pin in the center section. The center, where all the rotation is happening, looks pretty good on yours. Even though the chrome had worn off most ly on my pin, it did still measure in the range of good given in my service manual. I am putting in a new OEM piston right now as well. I ordered the '11 piston and maybe I should have got the '12. Oh well.

One thing I noticed that got me thinking about the pin and box section stuff is that the big bore kit I had in my bike, which has a vertex piston without the boxed pin area, had a new looking pin when I removed it. I have a DLC pin that fits most 250F's, just not the OEM piston that comes on our bikes. It is a lightened design that is a few mm shorter in length.

yes ill look into that and im having the wrinst pin measured at the machine shop today but looking at it as this thing went up and down how many millions of times in 50 hrs thats not bad but considering that the pin you speak of allways for more oil that only means it should last longer thanks for the imput ill be looking into it

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I have a question for you after thinking about it some more. Your jetting looks pretty good and safe based on the piston and combustion chamber color. What do your exhaust valve stems look like? Are they white colored or grey? Also, what did the intake stems and valve heads look like? I am just trying to get some observations of this stuff to compare to my engine. My exhaust valve stems are pretty much coated in thin white coloring. Oh yes, also what does your spark plug look like? Thanks for your help.

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Edited by drzadam

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