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New 2009: 140MJ, 45PJ, Powerbowl, AP oring....BOG...WTH?

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Found a new CRF150RB for my GF, had 1.1 hrs and looks mint. Researched for a bog cure and have made these mods but it still bogs!

First: 140MJ, 45PJ, 40 leak, 2.5 fuel screw, stock needle in middle, oring mod......still had the bog.

Second: 140MJ, 45PJ, installed R&D PowerBowl w/ leak 1.5 out=40leak, 2.5 fuel screw, stock needle in middle, oring mod......still had the bog. I've adjusted the leak screw in and out, no difference.

Mine came stock with 138MJ, 38PJ, 58 leak

I also installed the R&D extended fuel screw. Everything is clean, it starts easily, has a hanging idle if I have the idle up too high, new/clean filter. This is at sea level, no humidity, was about 65 today. It runs no better or worse with the expensive Powerbowl that was supposed to be "the cure-all" so what am I missing?

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Air leak, plugged pilot or plugged pump nozzel. Does it shoot a nice big stream? Spray break cleaner around intake? See through pilot?

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Ours only bogs when it's on the stand and not when riding.

Yours do it when riding?

Ron.

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Final test is off the stand. Also is the squirt timmed right? Fuel screw out 2.5 on both set-ups? Every motor is different, mine has a 42 pilot and is out around 2 turns. Also QS3 and set at 45+/- a bit. Try air screw at 1.75-2 out and leak jet near 45 only after making sure the squirt is correctly timmed. Is there a high idle?

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The MJ, PJ and leak were all new and not plugged.

I havent lowered the subframe and checked the stream...yet. I'm not sure how I adjust the timing of the stream. i understand it should shoot immediately after the slide rises, just missing the slide, but how is it adjusted and can it be in a wrong direction like hitting the internal throttle body? Method to adjust timing?

Break cleaner around intake boots? This will test for a leak and if it does have one, the result would be?

I started with the FS at 2.5 out but moved it around, in until it got unstable and out a half to about 3 out...no diff in either config scenario. I also adjusted the PowerBowl leak all in to about 2.5 out.

The idle is just under where it wants to start hanging. If I turn it up slightly, maybe 1/8 turn, it gets less boggy but the hanging idle is much worse. It starts easily and idles fine.

I admittedly wasnt riding it, this is on the stand. I assumed if it couldnt handle a slight quick brrap then it wont handle a real twist on the trail. Hope to get it on the dirt this weekend and test more.

So far, kinda pissed I blew all the $$ for the "cure-all" PowerBowl when it runs no diff than a $5 40 leak jet. And to be clear, smaller leak means less fuel back into the bowl or more?

Edited by wuneyewilly

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The MJ, PJ and leak were all new and not plugged.

I havent lowered the subframe and checked the stream...yet. I'm not sure how I adjust the timing of the stream. i understand it should shoot immediately after the slide rises, just missing the slide, but how is it adjusted and can it be in a wrong direction like hitting the internal throttle body? Method to adjust timing? Adjustment is with the screw inside the cover on the side of carb. You will move the arm/linkage so the rod pushed down at the correct time. Squirt should just mis the slide. Lenth of squirt is not adjustable outside of cutting the rod/pin. With QS3, adjustment to this timing was called out and needed. The R&D bowel should have taken you thru this. If not call them, they have greatcustomer support.

Break cleaner around intake boots? This will test for a leak and if it does have one, the result would be? If idle rises then you have a leak at the boot. Do you have high idle after throttle twist??

I started with the FS at 2.5 out but moved it around, in until it got unstable and out a half to about 3 out...no diff in either config scenario. I also adjusted the PowerBowl leak all in to about 2.5 out. If the fuel screw is not adjustable correctly then the leak jet will amphy the issue, i.e. rich idle then richer leak/AP setting. This motor is picky on the low end settings. If the idle screw doesn't help and hanging idle, your air screw/pilot is off. The motor must be at opetating temperature and heat soaked is best. Set the FS to where it becomes unstable. Turn richer 1/8-1/4 turns (45 pilot). Adjust leak to 45 and take a test ride.

The idle is just under where it wants to start hanging. If I turn it up slightly, maybe 1/8 turn, it gets less boggy but the hanging idle is much worse. It starts easily and idles fine. Idle should be around 1800-2000 rpm. Get a tac/hour meter. If idle is set high your pilot/AP setting will be hard to set.

I admittedly wasnt riding it, this is on the stand. I assumed if it couldnt handle a slight quick brrap then it wont handle a real twist on the trail. Hope to get it on the dirt this weekend and test more.

So far, kinda pissed I blew all the $$ for the "cure-all" PowerBowl when it runs no diff than a $5 40 leak jet. And to be clear, smaller leak means less fuel back into the bowl or more?

There is no cure all as each motor is a bit different. However the power bowl works and will make a good running motor run better. Have you contacted R&D? Step away for a day or so, then reset and verify everything.

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When you spray brake cleaner around the intake at idle and the idle fluxuates at the same time, there is a air leak. To check the clow of the PJ, just pull the off and twist the throttle body, a nice stream should shoot. If one doesn't that is your, problem. That happen to me after I let it sit for a while. The pilot was clean, but the flow of the PJ was blocked. I used some compressed air and it fixed it.

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So I removed the subframe and looking down the back of the throttle body, when I crank the throttle, there is no squirt at all. I am certain I put the diaphram in exactly as I removed it as I had the bowls upside down, side-by-side for that part. There is a little brass nub that protrudes on the intake side of the slide, on the intake side of the head, which I assume is where the squirt would come from? See the pic below. So it need to clean it or?

imag0241w.jpg

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There is a groove where the diaphram goes and there is a lip on the diaphram. They mate. Check that first. I did that once. If that is correct, then shoot air in the hole where the fuel goes into to shoot out of, if that makes sense. Just follow the brass thing down and you will see what I'm talking about. It's hard to get a good angl on it, but you can get enough air from air comprssor to do the job.

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At this stage I would pull out the carb. Clean and check all jets and diaphram. Diaphram could have a hole/crack in it and the rod can be frozen, not moving. It is alot easier to see everything when carb is off. Check squirt by attaching the thottle cables/fuel before attaching the carb. Then attach the carb, fuel, cables and adjust AP.

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I think he did that already, I think the pic is with the carb already off?

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Thanks guys. I havent pulled the carb off completely as I was trying to avoid that, and work has curtailed my efforts. I plan to get it off tomorrow, blown through, cleaned and assembly validated. I'll post back after, hopefully elated to have a crisp and responsive new bike for Carnegie on Sunday. I know she's excited to ride it w/o lurching over the bars...me too! :bonk:

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Id be willing to bet that your leak jet is too rich. The bog your seeing is a rich bog. Stock is 58. Your other jetting looks correct. I experienced this on my 09 250r. Had a 50 leak and couldnt figure it out kept bogging. The 50 was supposed to be the cure. Went back to my 70 leak and the bog was gone. I went and checked what leak was in the girlfriends 07 150r and hers is a 55 and the other jetting is the same as yours. She is also running the stock needle with the clip 3 down from the top. If you check pro circuits jetting page they use the stock leak jet for all years of the 150r. The girlfriends carb was set up by Tokyo Mods and they used the stock leak jet as well. If you have the R D bowl still on set the leak to about 55 and see if your bog goes away. When you get everything set warm the bike up completely and then start evaluating your settings. You cannot jet a cold bike sitting on the stand.

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Leak jets are the opposite of a regular jet, because it's puts the fuel back in the bowl. The bigger the jet, the more fuel goes in the bowl and Less fuel gets squirted into the motor. But the smaller the leak jet, the less fuel goes back to the bowl and More goes to the motor. There are some cool Youtube Vids that explain this very well with them showing how much fuel is being squirted after each adjustment. I have a R&D Power Bowl and when it's set up, the throttle response is insane. Bottom to top as fast as you can crack the throttle the power is there without even a hint of hesitation. I run a 48 pilot, 40 leak, stock needle and main. The fuel screw is wherever it's needs to be for that particular day.

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